Chalk one more engine up to OC...

OC has been getting worse recently and I decided to finally bite the bullet and go in for a test. 1st reading after ~1000 miles was "a little low" but at ~2500 it was 25mm below, so they're ordering a new engine for me now. Unnamed NC dealer has so far been very cool about everything (full kudos AFTER swap ). No hassling about receipts (which I don't have for the first 2 years as I bought it used and nothing shows up in their records), no runaround with too many tests or magically passing tests I should be failing, and no grief about breather mods during the OC tests.

So hopefully my rock solid, oil-friendly engine comes in this week and I don't have to worry about blowing up on the interstate anymore.

One concern though is what to do about the mods I have on right now. I know the best thing to do is take everything off (intake, MREV2, 5/16") but it seems like a waste of time if they'll take them off and just replace with my provided stock parts. I don't expect them to re-install aftermarket parts due to liability, but I feel like the MREV2 and Nismo intake (i know, i know...) might be possible. Anyone had experience getting the swap with these parts still on or am I just being lazy?

 

Do you notice oil anywhere on the ground or smelling it? If not, then it seems that the oil maybe going back into the engine. My dealer did the dipstick check, where you bring the car in every 1k miles and they check the oil level. After appointment number 2, they said I needed a new engine, and so it was replaced. My car too was only touched by the dealership. My dealer made good on my problem! See below, I found this article helpful
Kerry
Why Engines Burn Oil
By Tom Torbjornsen [Learn More]

This article was inspired by many listeners, readers, web-surfers, and TV viewers posing the question to me: "Tom, why does my car or truck burn oil?" Generally, engines burn oil due to a few reasons.

Bad valve seals

Worn valve guides

Pressurized crankcase (oil pan) due to a clogged PCV valve or breather system

Blow-by from worn piston rings

Bad valve seals: The valves are located in thecylinder head above the combustion chamber. Oil is pumped at 50 to 80 psi of pressure into the top of the head, lubricating the valve-train; the valveshave seals on them to stop the flow of oil down into the engine when the valve is open. If the seals fail, oil is allowed to flow down into the combustion chamber and is burned.

Worn valve guides: The valves are guided by a small cylindrical chamber called a valve guide. These guides wear over time causing eccentricity (or slop); the excess gap allows the flow of oil down the valve stem into the combustion chamber to be burned. What about the valve seal you say? Well, the gap is too great for the seal to stop the oil flow, so down it goes to be burned.

Pressurized crankcase due to clogged PCV or breather system:The car's engine is a giant pump, consequently it must breathe. The PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) system does just this, allows the engine to exhaust the excess pressure build-up (which is a natural phenomenon of the internal combustion engine). Carbon build-up is a by-product of an engine and can build up in the PCV system, clogging the breathing passages. This in turn pressurizes the oil pan and pushes oil up into the fuel delivery system, where it is fed into the engine and burned.

Blow-by from worn piston rings: The pistons in your car's engine have seals around them in the form of rings. These rings do two things:


Seal the combustion chamber so the precious power developed from the firing of the cylinder is not lost.


Provide vital lubrication to the cylinder walls.

When the rings wear out, the pressure from combustion reverses down into the oil pan, pressurizing it and forcing oil into the valve covers, through the breather system, back into the fuel delivery system, and into the engine to be burned.

You may ask yourself, "What can I do to stop this from happening?" Keep your oil and filter changed every 3,000 miles and keep the air filters changed every 12,000 miles!! This will keep sludge and carbon buildup down to a minimum. Understand that you can't stop mechanical wear, but you can slow it down!

Now a word about new cars. People notice the engine in their new vehicle seems to be burning oil. They contact the dealer and are advised that using oil is a "normal condition." I agree, however there is a difference between "burning oil" and "using oil." We just discussed how oil is burned. In contrast, today's engines operate at higher temperatures and compression ratios, causing oil to be used. Higher temperatures and compression ratios achieve two things:


Lower exhaust emissions


More power out of smaller engines

However, along with these benefits comes the side effect of using oil, due to the increased friction and heat. As a result, the oil is evaporating or being broken down while doing its job. In other words, the oil is being used. It is not going out the tail pipe as it does when it is burned.

The rate of oil use depends on how much the vehicle is used and, more importantly, under what load. For instance, a 3/4-ton pickup truck used for hauling will use more oil than a small passenger car. For those experiencing a higher rate of oil use, I suggest using synthetic oil. It has a higher resistance-to-viscosity breakdown and will do a better job than standard oil.

 

Recently My '04 engine blew up yes ,that is right, the rod went out the block the cause ; low oil.
I Check my Engine Oil Every Week As I only drive the car maybe 2/3 times a week.
I wasn't racing nor hard driving, Just cruising at 4/5Krpm and then suddenly ,engine stalls and holds at 4krpm and then shuts down.

I Bought a new longblock from Nissan 2 months ago, As I don't have more warranty on the car so yea BIG $$$, thinking it would resolve the problem. Nope it didn't it's losing oil still. I quickly got a used Engine for now.

So if I rebuild the engine block and head with aftermarket: bearing,valve seals,pistons,piston rings ect. Would this fix the OC problem?

On my used Engine I don't know if it has or not the OC problem. What Would be a a simple fix? I heard adding a thicker Oil Would Help some is this true?

Hasn't Anyone figure out the real cause? So many ppl with OC problem, No one had time to try figuring out the cause?

 

......This post is in response to Repisa: lets see now you did not check your oil for 3750 miles until YOU heard engine noises...now you are worried that Nissan is going to give YOU trouble fixing it for you.....There are "percentage of Nissan owners that do not check their oil because the dip stick is too hard to replace.." I have a name for you but the moderators will not let me use..it.

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...d.php?t=638610

 

I have read a few pages of this thread and am a little concerned about this issue. I have an '04 G35x sedan and it seems like that I may not have this issue at all, which I am hoping for. I had my mechanic check cylinders 1 and 6 and they were clean. So from now on I will keep checking the oil level and also check the tail pipes for any grease.

 

Ummmmmmmm.... Would that name be "dipstick"?

Don't most of these oil issues just start suddenly? I haven't checked the oil in my cars regularly since I had a 1964 MGB back in 1972. No car I have owned since that time has used more than a half a quart between changes.

 

No one has come up with some fix? new piston+pistonrings ect??

 

For Infiniti and Nissan owners getting replacements, make sure your dealer knows about this TSB procedure.

For Infiniti
Attachment 122771

For Nissan
Attachment 122772


To late for me and probably explains my valvetrain issue on my replacement. Mine was done back in 2008 before this TSB release.

 

Checked the tail pipes and no grease there. Going to start checking oil on a regular from now on.

 

Hello, for anyone who can help with this please do. I have a 2005 coupe 5AT and on the dipstick being cold it shows that it is about a fingernail length low from the very top of the braided part on the dipstick. Is that bad or is that where i should be at? Also do are cars have to be at the top of the braided part of the dipstick every single day or should it consume alittle oil like mine is showing? thanks

 

'As long as you are within the braided part, you are good to go. At the bottom of the braided part is where you should add one quart of oil. The real question is; how long did it take to get to that point on your dip stick?

 

um it took about month and half to get just alittle nail size down. and im getting close to get another oil change. just wondering it still well inside the braided part above the middle also.

 

Hey Guys when you recieve the new engines from the dealer do they come with a flywheel

 

so to prevent this problems we need to check up on our oil in the car... every week???
just want to know if jiffy lube does good?

 

If you are unsure of your cars OC, check AT LEAST every time you fill up until you establish how much it is using.

The only problem I have had with comercial oil change places is; they make a mess under the pan, they use really CRAPPY FILTERS unless you bring your own.