Oh n/m noticed that Osc made some changes and did improve it a lot.

 

Okay I started this and because I'm a rookie at electronics/soldering, etc. I messed up two of the Mazda micro buttons trying to desolder them from the circuit board(argh).

Does anyone know where I can get those micro buttons? Someone said to use Motorola side buttons, but I don't even know where to get those. I took apart an old Sony Ericsson cell I had that didn't work, but those side buttons are a lot smaller than the Mazda ones...they may work, but I'd like to get the same ones if possible.

I actually have another Key Fob coming in, so I can take two off of that board, but I would still need two more for another one otherwise I'll have an incormplete set to work with.

The dremel and wiring of the antenna were fairly easy...but this is definitely not an easy project overall for someone that hasn't done this kind of work before. I've spent about 3 hours taking my time and still have the wiring left to do.

 

just got an audi fob and my buddy(got a g also) got these sick aftermarket ones that he says he can make them do remote start. hes going to try and work it so you dont need the key at all. this should be a long night.

 

Hey that's cool - not sure how that would work considering the Immobilizer chip embedded in the key. I guess you would need to be able to transmit that signal or mount the chip near the ignition switch.

I just finished this mod...it took me 10 hours, but that's because I'm a rookie w/ soldering and dremeling. I have a problem with the antenna....it's very spotty. Sometimes I get 30 ft...sometimes only 5.

 

this is the biggest horse**** in the world. i've been ****ing with this for 3 days now and i can't get it to work. i got my key all cut, wired it all up (which was a bitch) and i can't get it to fit properly. When i put it back together the stupid buttons don't line up and i'll get a couple to work when you push them but usually the lock button doesn't even depress. wtf is the stupid trick to getting them to work? i've just spent 3 hours straight of moving the buttons and re-soldering. My buttons and wires are about shot because of all this.

 

if the buttons are directly lined up with the holes in the rubber, it won't depress properly. and u also have to play around with the height of the button. i had to use small pieces of folded tissue paper to adjust the height. it just takes time to adjust things. ur almost there man.

 

so they ARE NOT suppose to line up with the holes?

i can't figure out if my buttons are too far away from the buttons or if they are so far up into the button that when i snap the case together the button is already depressed. they are right on the board, except for the panic button and it's up because it rests on top of some wires (30gauge)

 

I just ordered a Mazda switchblade last night.

I also found a 433mhz transmitter that is 1/4 the size of a postage stamp, and has a rated range of 400 foot. I did some research in to the actual transmitter chip that Nissan uses in the keyfob and found that they have to be programmed with a 28bit security code to make them work with the recievers, so I don't think it would be possible to make a brand new unit.

However, it would be nice if it were possible to put a stronger transmitter in, and come up with a good way to do the buttons.

 

It might be better not to use tissue paper, but instead use something that is not easily flamable in case u accidently short the circuit, like alluminum foil, or rubber/metalic washers. Just IMHO.

 

Hi Guys,

I am doing this project right now and I cant seem to close the whole case after im done.

Any advice?

 

does the chip sit flush? like the one in the picture?

 

hey accordfreak,

Where are you located?

I think mazda changed the designs. It looks a little different. Ill post up pictures

 

bay area

 

btw did you shave part of the casing with a dremel like in picture 3?

 

yep i did...