https://g35driver.com/forums/buying-selling-leasing-discussion/201834-getting-my-g-coupe-after-taxes-few-questions.html

few noob questions I have in bottom post, would like some answers please

thanks!

 

Hah, I have to admit, driving in MN when its kinda cold out....shaddup , I hate the feeling of driving and having the clutch not follow your foot when you shift. It naturally only happens when its cold, even after being warmed up for 5 minutes or so, still the tranny is cold and the damn clutch pedal seems to go as slow as it wants to

Aka, shifting from 2nd to 3rd you pull your foot off the clutch, but the clutch comes back slower than your foot, kinda weird sometimes

 

chilibowl,

I just got my 06 G35 6MT couple months ago. I know you talked a lil abt how to launch G35 in a race but I need more help and details. How would you exactly launch urs? Rev up to 2500, clutch out and floor it? Shift it to 2nd at almost red line? I found my rear tire loosing grip if I do tat n i m not goin' anywhere. ( w VDC on )

Thanks a lot for your help.

Tong

 

As responded in your PM.

The best way to launch is to turn VDC OFF, rev up to about 3K, drop the clutch but DO NOT floor it until you catch 80-100% traction. Once you feel it hook, you mash on it and ALWAYS shift at 7100. The Rev-Up motor makes power all the way to 7100, so dont shift until your .25 seconds away from hitting the rev-limiter. Also, dont be scared, this car can take a beating well, and jumping off the rev-limiter for a few seconds is not exactly hurting the engine. It isnt insanely quick but it isnt no slouch either. Make SURE to REV EVERY SINGLE GEAR out to 7100 RPM's.

 

Thanks a lot for the tips man...great help...

time to practice...lol....

 

I just feel like adding that although double clutching is not necessary with a synchro tranny, when you are grinding gears, this technique will be usefull. You're grinding that gear because the synchro is worn out and is not working properly, and unless you spend the money to change that out for a new one (maybe a new gear too), double clutching will be one option to keep everything working properly without wearing out the gear any more.

 

If someone has to resort to double-clutching to avoid a worn-out synchro, maybe a manual wasn't for them in the first place

I have to say chili, I read through most of this thread and this information is great for newcomers. While I would suggest someone getting a beater to practice on rather than using a $35k car to practice on, it's still great information. While reading through this and thinking of when I was learning to drive an MT, I was sitting here going "Yep, I remember learning that..." or "Yea... I definitely used to do that with my first car, glad I changed my ways!" It's been years since I've learned how to drive an MT properly, but this information would have been very useful back when I was learning. Hell, this information is a great reminder even for a seasoned MT driver. Kudos!

 

It happens... usually third or second gear first at that. Driver error is not the only reason why you can start grinding your gears. Worn clutch or bearing helps start the problem too. Cold mornings before the car really warms up, when the shifter is still a bit hard to get into gear is a good time to practice double clutching too.

 

Yeah, very true, although driver error is generally the common culprit. Aside from my first car, where the grinds happened every week or so for the first couple months (I was trying out all different techniques so I could handle all types of shifting, just for knowledge reasons, including floating it into gear by no more than rev match), I haven't had any grinding issues due to worn out synchros in any other car. Granted, I don't have to deal w/ cold mornings per say. 60's are the "low" here, so within 2 minutes I'm good to go, and that's enough to get me out of the parking lot and to the first light, which I sit at for 2 minutes anyway!

 

If you ever grind a gear, it's because the synchros aren't working correctly.

Simply put, double clutching is to help you shift into a gear smoothly. If you're grinding any gear, or having a hard time getting the shifter into a gear, you aren't shifting smoothly as is and it's time to revert back to ancient driving techniques like double clutching.

 

Didn't read the whole thing, but interesting thread. Though I currently drive AT, I have driven all sorts of MT's -- 13- and 15-speeds, 5 & 4 (that's a 5-speed with a 4-speed behind it, makes for some interesting shift patterns/techniques), three-on-the-tree, and even an old NON-syncro truck transmission. If you didn't hit the revs EXACTLY on your upshift, your one and only choice was to roll to a stop and start over. And double clutching was mandatory, otherwise you'd never get the next gear.

 

Yes and yes


Any time you come to a COMPETE STOP with the car in ANY GEAR, you MUST push in (disengauge) the clutch to keep from killing the motor.

Yes you can back out like that, but it takes a bit of practice and experiance to engage the clutch without giving a bit of gas.

As I posted somewhere here, I had never driven a MT when I got my first job delivering for a local drug store. But, I know how a clutch and transmission worked and used logic to figure out the rest. Go study how it works, it should be easy to find on the web.

I found this by putting "how does a clutch work?" in google:

http://www.howstuffworks.com/clutch.htm

 

1. Yes, otherwise it will stall. No, slowing your speed below what idle speed is will stall the car.

2. Yes, that's the proper way. You can probably slip the clutch enough without it but why would you want to? No, see last sentence.

 

sometimes you get lucky and the engine 'saves itself' though when it hits 0 rpm (but you have to step on the clutch very quick for it to work)

 

^Mreh, to answer your question...

You can definitely get a car going with none to very very little throttle, the problem is that it has to be done so slowly that it's not practical in traffic.

The whole reason an engine stalls is because you transmission is providing too much resistance back through the flywheel because the 3700lb+ car is at a dead stop. Ie, since you are not rolling, the tires are stationary and when you let the clutch out fast/normally, it needs to get the wheels moving so the engine can minimally engage without succumbing to the friction of the clutch that is transmitting the stationary resistance of your car.

Now you can get the engine and transmission to get going with little to no gas by slipping the clutch so slowly that the car eventually begins to roll and the idle revs are enough to overcome the resistance and keep you rolling. This is why, you tend to need more revs (1-1.5k at a start) to get the car rolling, but once you are moving, you can simply roll along at 1k or even less revs in 1st or 2nd gear without stalling.
So again, the main problem in needing revs on the start is to overcome the static friction of a stationary object to do it smoothly and quickly enough for normal traffic situations otherwise if everyone rolled off from a traffic light at 1mph, then you wouldn't need to give it any gas really.

*Finally for those of you who don't get the static friction being more resistance than kinetic (moving) friction, think about a heavy box you have to push across a surface. Now it takes a good deal of force to get the box to move, but once it gets going, you don't nearly have to push as hard. Similarly, you engine has to do a bit more work at the offset to get the car going, hence the revs.