How to correctly drive an MT.
#196
07-11-2008, 09:34 AM
Originally Posted by RBull
1. Yes, otherwise it will stall. No, slowing your speed below what idle speed is will stall the car.
#197
07-11-2008, 08:31 PM
Originally Posted by SteveZ
Your clutch is sticking before it fully engages? As in the pedal isn't coming all the way off the floor by itself? Happens a lot in hot weather maybe?
No, this isn't a purposeful design that prevents the clutch from coming all the way up. It's a problem.
Try http://www.my350z.com/forum/showthre...lutch+sticking or any number of threads searching on clutch + stick or sticking.
It's a problem due to usually either a) weak or defective slave cylinder, b) clutch fluid overheating due to the small amount of it and the routing of the line near the exhaust and cat, c) sometimes a problem with the clutch master cylinder. Heat is almost always a factor, whether from headers, normal exhaust pipes, weather (biggest one I can see).
When it's really bad, the clutch just sticks to the floor and is very slow to return at all. If nothing is actually wrong with the clutch components like the slave, M/C, etc. people often change out the fluid to a higher temp fluid like Motul not as affected by heat, and/or replace the stock line with stainless steel shielded with some heat-resistant material.
Your original question sounded more like a driving question which is why you didn't get the answer you are looking for. Nothing is designed to make the clutch stop partway up, this is a problem and yes, it will wear your clutch badly and cause premature replacement, and being a "wear item", isn't usually covered unless the M/C or something is defective.
HTH
No, this isn't a purposeful design that prevents the clutch from coming all the way up. It's a problem.
Try http://www.my350z.com/forum/showthre...lutch+sticking or any number of threads searching on clutch + stick or sticking.
It's a problem due to usually either a) weak or defective slave cylinder, b) clutch fluid overheating due to the small amount of it and the routing of the line near the exhaust and cat, c) sometimes a problem with the clutch master cylinder. Heat is almost always a factor, whether from headers, normal exhaust pipes, weather (biggest one I can see).
When it's really bad, the clutch just sticks to the floor and is very slow to return at all. If nothing is actually wrong with the clutch components like the slave, M/C, etc. people often change out the fluid to a higher temp fluid like Motul not as affected by heat, and/or replace the stock line with stainless steel shielded with some heat-resistant material.
Your original question sounded more like a driving question which is why you didn't get the answer you are looking for. Nothing is designed to make the clutch stop partway up, this is a problem and yes, it will wear your clutch badly and cause premature replacement, and being a "wear item", isn't usually covered unless the M/C or something is defective.
HTH
P.S. Thanks for the advise, pic and link.
Last edited by lush1; 07-11-2008 at 08:40 PM.
#198
07-29-2008, 04:50 PM
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does anyone get a lil shaking/vibration in first gear sometimes while releasing the clutch? it depends on how i release the clutch and my mood. it kind of vibrates/shakes/rattle the car a lil but it seems that only i notice and not my passengers. i dunno maybe im doing sumin wrong. i usually try go into first at about 1500. is everyone getting out of first a lil slower than all the other gears in order to be more smooth???
also read stuff about overcoming static friction. so if we are on a hill we have to overcome more static friction than on a flat surface. if we are on a hill do we need to go a tad bit higher in RPMS like around 2000 instead of 1500??
this car is a lil bit trickier in first gear than all the other cars i have driven so far....but not difficult.
do u guys always try to keep your clutch fluid to the max line? mines right now is between max and min.
also read stuff about overcoming static friction. so if we are on a hill we have to overcome more static friction than on a flat surface. if we are on a hill do we need to go a tad bit higher in RPMS like around 2000 instead of 1500??
this car is a lil bit trickier in first gear than all the other cars i have driven so far....but not difficult.
do u guys always try to keep your clutch fluid to the max line? mines right now is between max and min.
Last edited by uhohitzmikeo; 07-29-2008 at 09:16 PM.
#199
07-29-2008, 05:21 PM
#200
08-17-2008, 03:04 AM
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I'm sorry if this question was already covered, but when going from a gear to neutral, it is necessary to hold the clutch in first without causing damage later on? For example, if I am cruising on the highway in 5th and want to put the car in neutral, do I have to first push in the clutch before going into neutral? Thanks
#201
08-17-2008, 08:09 AM
#202
09-17-2008, 10:42 PM
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#203
10-05-2008, 07:21 PM
question guys......when downshifting, example from 4th to 3rd, do you need to double clutch? or is it ok to clutch and rev match while the clutch is still down then release? ive heard that this will mess up your clutch but it was an un reliable source...thought i would ask the pros..thanks!!
#204
10-05-2008, 07:55 PM
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Originally Posted by ballinitup56
question guys......when downshifting, example from 4th to 3rd, do you need to double clutch? or is it ok to clutch and rev match while the clutch is still down then release? ive heard that this will mess up your clutch but it was an un reliable source...thought i would ask the pros..thanks!!
#205
10-05-2008, 08:09 PM
#206
10-05-2008, 08:16 PM
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Originally Posted by ballinitup56
cool man thanks! i just needed to hear it from someone who has a g and has been driving for a while! just making sure that it wont mess up my clutch in the long run.....plus it saves a lot of time over double clutching.
#207
10-05-2008, 10:03 PM
#208
10-06-2008, 10:33 AM
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#209
10-06-2008, 11:09 AM
if you are downshifting, you "blip" the throttle (give it a quick punch) to "rev-match) the engine revs to the speed of the gear selected. It makes less wear on the transmission syncros (and clutch) by having the gear selected and engine speed matched.
Originally Posted by Everything.com
REV MATCHING is a driving technique for shifting a manual transmission smoothly. One simply memorizes approximately how many RPMs different the various gears are from one another at the same speed, and then matches the engine's revs with the gear they are shifting in to. When upshifting, you just let the revs drop and slip into gear. When downshifting, you tap the throttle (or stomp on it depending on how long it takes to rev up.) This is often referred to as 'blipping' it. This works easily primarily because of the syncromesh gears in your transmission; if your transmission does not have them, this is very, very difficult to do without grinding. Even so, it takes the right touch.
For example, in one car the gears might all be approximately 1,000 RPM apart at the same speed. When downshifting from third to second, for example, you would apply accelerator pressure to raise the engine RPMs by 1,000 (say, from 3,000 to 4,000) and make your shift. You can then use engine braking to reduce your speed.
This practice results in reduced brake wear, less of a lurch when shifting from a higher gear to a lower one, less clutch slippage when shifting from a lower gear to a higher one, and a smoother shift without having to slip the clutch so much.
In auto racing, one often uses the more advanced form of this activity, heel-toeing (Alternately heel-toe braking or heel-toe downshifting) in which one's heel is on the brake pedal, decelerating, while the toe is on the gas pedal, accelerating. This allows the use of both the brakes and the engine to perform braking.
For example, in one car the gears might all be approximately 1,000 RPM apart at the same speed. When downshifting from third to second, for example, you would apply accelerator pressure to raise the engine RPMs by 1,000 (say, from 3,000 to 4,000) and make your shift. You can then use engine braking to reduce your speed.
This practice results in reduced brake wear, less of a lurch when shifting from a higher gear to a lower one, less clutch slippage when shifting from a lower gear to a higher one, and a smoother shift without having to slip the clutch so much.
In auto racing, one often uses the more advanced form of this activity, heel-toeing (Alternately heel-toe braking or heel-toe downshifting) in which one's heel is on the brake pedal, decelerating, while the toe is on the gas pedal, accelerating. This allows the use of both the brakes and the engine to perform braking.
#210
10-07-2008, 10:42 PM
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So just an update, I've had my 6MT coupe for 2 months now and am pretty much set with it... this was my first manual car I just made sure to take it easy and not wear the clutch... now I'm fine with it everywhere, now I drive the thing into manhatten on occasion ( 
)... though gotta admit I still get a little shook if I'm in traffic stopped a big hill
)... though gotta admit I still get a little shook if I'm in traffic stopped a big hill