How to correctly drive an MT.
This is a great thread, I have had my car for a week and a half now (05 g35 6mt coupe) and this thread is very helpful and informative. Its the first stick I owned but I have driven mt's before rarely. The information is helping from effing up and making stupid mistakes and also is helping me shift better.
About the throw out bearing I read earlier, has anyone had their's replaced?? If so at how many miles and how much did it cost you. I have heard a few times when the car is started ...standing outside the car the rattle sound. when I push the clutch in it goes away, its hard to hear from in the car but you can hear it from outside. Like I said I heard it only a few times, but it worries me since I just got the car and dont want to spend money on repairs. your input would be great.
About the throw out bearing I read earlier, has anyone had their's replaced?? If so at how many miles and how much did it cost you. I have heard a few times when the car is started ...standing outside the car the rattle sound. when I push the clutch in it goes away, its hard to hear from in the car but you can hear it from outside. Like I said I heard it only a few times, but it worries me since I just got the car and dont want to spend money on repairs. your input would be great.
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 150
Likes: 0
From: Ft. Lauderdale
I have a question about the video. It almost seem's as if he isn't letting off the gas when he is upshifting. I still hear the engine at like 3-5k rpm's when he goes from like 3rd to nuet. then to 4th.. Why is he doing that? lol
Originally Posted by KhanArt
This is a great thread, I have had my car for a week and a half now (05 g35 6mt coupe) and this thread is very helpful and informative. Its the first stick I owned but I have driven mt's before rarely. The information is helping from effing up and making stupid mistakes and also is helping me shift better.
About the throw out bearing I read earlier, has anyone had their's replaced?? If so at how many miles and how much did it cost you. I have heard a few times when the car is started ...standing outside the car the rattle sound. when I push the clutch in it goes away, its hard to hear from in the car but you can hear it from outside. Like I said I heard it only a few times, but it worries me since I just got the car and dont want to spend money on repairs. your input would be great.
About the throw out bearing I read earlier, has anyone had their's replaced?? If so at how many miles and how much did it cost you. I have heard a few times when the car is started ...standing outside the car the rattle sound. when I push the clutch in it goes away, its hard to hear from in the car but you can hear it from outside. Like I said I heard it only a few times, but it worries me since I just got the car and dont want to spend money on repairs. your input would be great.
. if your having problems with the throw out bearing i suggest taking it to infiniti of tysons corner and speaking to David Jacobs. most people are happy with his service but some has had problems with him but in the end most if not all their cars were fixed! i got my engine replaced through there (OC issue) and also tried to get my throw out bearing but since it happens intermittently the dealership could not replicate the problem.
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
Great write up. It's funny because I thought I knew how to drive an M/T pretty well. I know all about the techniques in this thread, but I didn't think the rev matched downshifting was really crucial to the life of the clutch. I usually blip the throttle if I'm going down in to second anyway, but in 4th to 3rd I didn't think it was all that necessary. I'm not super smooth with my G37 yet, but If I'm not full throttle I can shift pretty smoothly. I've never fried a clutch (knock on wood) and I've only got the burnt clutch smell on hot days in downtown seattle on the brutal steep hills. (even using handbrake method) I'm going to try to remember some of these tips because I would like to keep the clutch happy...
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
From: Toronto, CA
Hi guys,
I found this thread very useful, however I have couple of questions for experienced users, I hope to clear out some doubts I have regarding full stops and shifting:
1. FULL STOP QUESTION:
a) Is it good for the engine/trans/clutch when coming to a red light, to simply put the gear into neutral from 3rd or 4th gear and while holding the clutch fully pressed make a full stop using the breaks?
OR
b) Put the gear into neutral, release the clutch and make a full stop using the breaks.
For either A or B can you explain why? If my understanding of how clutch works is correct, there should be no problem keeping the clutch fully pressed while making a full stop (using the brakes) because the car is moving on momentum (no engine breaking since the clutch is fully engaged, hence the transmission is separated from the engine).
2. DOWNSHIFT REV-MATCH: Here is my understanding how to do a correct rev-match when downshifting, step-by-step, I just need it confirmed:
rev-match from 4th (~3000 rpm) -> 3rd gear for example
1. Change into neutral
2. Press gas for engine to rev-up
3. Once the needle hits around 4500 rpm put it into 3rd gear
Are these steps correct? Because I have two sub questions about this:
2.1
a) Step # 2, should I press the gas and then let it go (a bit harder so the engine will rev-up to 5-6 rpm for example) and then wait to drop to ~4500 rpm?
OR
b) Should I try to keep the gas until it reaches 4500rpm and then change the gear?
2.2 When changing into 3rd, gas should be pressed a little bit so there would be no engine breaking?
3. General question, is it bad for the clutch to, while waiting on the red light, to keep it all the way down (pressed) while in 1st gear? If yes, why? In some of the previous posts someone said that it should always be in neutral and then once the light changes to green , put it into 1st gear and go. But I didn't understand why is bad for keep it in 1st gear with clutch fully pressed.
Thanks in advance,
Deky
I found this thread very useful, however I have couple of questions for experienced users, I hope to clear out some doubts I have regarding full stops and shifting:
1. FULL STOP QUESTION:
a) Is it good for the engine/trans/clutch when coming to a red light, to simply put the gear into neutral from 3rd or 4th gear and while holding the clutch fully pressed make a full stop using the breaks?
OR
b) Put the gear into neutral, release the clutch and make a full stop using the breaks.
For either A or B can you explain why? If my understanding of how clutch works is correct, there should be no problem keeping the clutch fully pressed while making a full stop (using the brakes) because the car is moving on momentum (no engine breaking since the clutch is fully engaged, hence the transmission is separated from the engine).
2. DOWNSHIFT REV-MATCH: Here is my understanding how to do a correct rev-match when downshifting, step-by-step, I just need it confirmed:
rev-match from 4th (~3000 rpm) -> 3rd gear for example
1. Change into neutral
2. Press gas for engine to rev-up
3. Once the needle hits around 4500 rpm put it into 3rd gear
Are these steps correct? Because I have two sub questions about this:
2.1
a) Step # 2, should I press the gas and then let it go (a bit harder so the engine will rev-up to 5-6 rpm for example) and then wait to drop to ~4500 rpm?
OR
b) Should I try to keep the gas until it reaches 4500rpm and then change the gear?
2.2 When changing into 3rd, gas should be pressed a little bit so there would be no engine breaking?
3. General question, is it bad for the clutch to, while waiting on the red light, to keep it all the way down (pressed) while in 1st gear? If yes, why? In some of the previous posts someone said that it should always be in neutral and then once the light changes to green , put it into 1st gear and go. But I didn't understand why is bad for keep it in 1st gear with clutch fully pressed.
Thanks in advance,
Deky
Registered User
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
From: Edison, NJ
This is true, but in reality, there isnt much need to HAVE to go into 1st, unless u are running from the popo or something.
Also, a good tip I can give to those newer drivers, is to learn how to smoothly shift, with just clutch action. If you can learn how to shift smoothly with barely any throttle input, you will achieve faster shifting skills, quicker. The thing with this transmission though, if there is no throttle input, it can get clanky and loud. To those just learning, go out in your cars and try it(empty parking lot of course). Take off in 1st, shift into 2nd, but when you shift, dont equalize with the gas, just simply let the clutch up nice and smoothly. If you do it correctly, it should be a smooth transition, but the clutch will be clanky. Now if you do the same, but with 25% throttle, you will notice the shafts match up perfectly, and there will be no clutch music.
For downshifts, its all about timing. Do not try and memorize all the different RPM levels to all the gears at all the speeds. Thats dumb. You must learn by timing. While youre cruising at on highway like roads, play around and learn, its the only way you CAN learn. If youre cruising in 4th at 45, practice rev-matching into 3rd, then back into 4th, then back into 3rd, and so on...Do it with all the gears. Once you practice with all gears, going from 5th to 3rd, from 6th to 4th, it will be like tying your shoes man... Also, dont skip more than 2 gears.
Also, to popular belief, they say its "bad" to skip gears on upshift.... Says who? If properly matched, you can go from 1st to 4th if you really feel like it.
For instance, you launch off in 1st, redlining the gear...that puts you at 36MPH. If lets say you see the popo and dont want to chirp the gear, simply put it in 4th, but leave the clutch pushed in, until the revs fall from 7100 (I have an 06) to about 2K. Once the needle is about to reach the 2K, you let the clutch out smoothly. If you match it up perfectly, it will be a smooth shift. Now on the other hand, if you WERE to redline 1st gear all the way at 7100rpms, and then dumped it into 4th and let the clutch out while the revs were spiked high, you can honestly hear your own clutch just crying for help.
Also, a good tip I can give to those newer drivers, is to learn how to smoothly shift, with just clutch action. If you can learn how to shift smoothly with barely any throttle input, you will achieve faster shifting skills, quicker. The thing with this transmission though, if there is no throttle input, it can get clanky and loud. To those just learning, go out in your cars and try it(empty parking lot of course). Take off in 1st, shift into 2nd, but when you shift, dont equalize with the gas, just simply let the clutch up nice and smoothly. If you do it correctly, it should be a smooth transition, but the clutch will be clanky. Now if you do the same, but with 25% throttle, you will notice the shafts match up perfectly, and there will be no clutch music.
For downshifts, its all about timing. Do not try and memorize all the different RPM levels to all the gears at all the speeds. Thats dumb. You must learn by timing. While youre cruising at on highway like roads, play around and learn, its the only way you CAN learn. If youre cruising in 4th at 45, practice rev-matching into 3rd, then back into 4th, then back into 3rd, and so on...Do it with all the gears. Once you practice with all gears, going from 5th to 3rd, from 6th to 4th, it will be like tying your shoes man... Also, dont skip more than 2 gears.
Also, to popular belief, they say its "bad" to skip gears on upshift.... Says who? If properly matched, you can go from 1st to 4th if you really feel like it.
For instance, you launch off in 1st, redlining the gear...that puts you at 36MPH. If lets say you see the popo and dont want to chirp the gear, simply put it in 4th, but leave the clutch pushed in, until the revs fall from 7100 (I have an 06) to about 2K. Once the needle is about to reach the 2K, you let the clutch out smoothly. If you match it up perfectly, it will be a smooth shift. Now on the other hand, if you WERE to redline 1st gear all the way at 7100rpms, and then dumped it into 4th and let the clutch out while the revs were spiked high, you can honestly hear your own clutch just crying for help.
question.. is it bad not to down shift and when comming up to a light just pushing in the clutch till you stop then keep it in neutra;l till the light turns green?
cuz if in doing like 30 and i see a yellow light i just pull in the clutch... i dont really down shift
cuz if in doing like 30 and i see a yellow light i just pull in the clutch... i dont really down shift
Registered User
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 119
Likes: 0
I would like to see someone answer Deky's post since I have close to the exact same questions.
andddd just for kicks lol, I have one more little question. It's about reversing, I have trouble getting out of my driveway which is on an incline. It seems that when reversing down the incline if I let go of the clutch it will stall! (Yes...I have been riding the clutch
) If I gas it and let go of the clutch, my car reverses down the incline super fast. What do I do? Get use to reversing at fast speeds - transporter style?
andddd just for kicks lol, I have one more little question. It's about reversing, I have trouble getting out of my driveway which is on an incline. It seems that when reversing down the incline if I let go of the clutch it will stall! (Yes...I have been riding the clutch
) If I gas it and let go of the clutch, my car reverses down the incline super fast. What do I do? Get use to reversing at fast speeds - transporter style?
Push in the clutch, put the shifter in Neutral (keep it in neutral), and get your foot of the clutch. You can coast to the light in Neutral, and it's unnecessary to keep your foot on the clutch when you are in Neutral. If you need to regain speed (if the light turn green), match your revolutions with your speed while putting the shifter into the appropriate gear.
I would like to see someone answer Deky's post since I have close to the exact same questions.
andddd just for kicks lol, I have one more little question. It's about reversing, I have trouble getting out of my driveway which is on an incline. It seems that when reversing down the incline if I let go of the clutch it will stall! (Yes...I have been riding the clutch ) If I gas it and let go of the clutch, my car reverses down the incline super fast. What do I do? Get use to reversing at fast speeds - transporter style?
andddd just for kicks lol, I have one more little question. It's about reversing, I have trouble getting out of my driveway which is on an incline. It seems that when reversing down the incline if I let go of the clutch it will stall! (Yes...I have been riding the clutch
) If I gas it and let go of the clutch, my car reverses down the incline super fast. What do I do? Get use to reversing at fast speeds - transporter style?Can you put the e-brake down and continue to coast down the hill without the engine on? If you can, you shouldn't even put the car in a gear to get down the driveway. If you need a little momentum you can lift the clutch up in reverse a little (just to get the car coasting down hill) and then quickly push the clutch in and keep it pushed in until you need to go forward and change gears.
Shifting from 1st to 2nd at high RPMs might cause you to chirp, or "burnout", the wheels since you have a lot of torque at the wheels. If you shift from 1st to 3rd (or 4th) you will notice the gearing in the transmission does not allow the wheels to spin, chirp, or burnout because you are in a higher gear.
But, chirp means to spin the wheels faster than you are actually moving. For example a burnout, tearout, spinning the tires, lighting up the tires, etc.
But, chirp means to spin the wheels faster than you are actually moving. For example a burnout, tearout, spinning the tires, lighting up the tires, etc.
Hi guys,
1. FULL STOP QUESTION:
a) Is it good for the engine/trans/clutch when coming to a red light, to simply put the gear into neutral from 3rd or 4th gear and while holding the clutch fully pressed make a full stop using the breaks? <----NO
OR
b) Put the gear into neutral, release the clutch and make a full stop using the breaks. <----Yes
For either A or B can you explain why? If my understanding of how clutch works is correct, there should be no problem keeping the clutch fully pressed while making a full stop (using the brakes) because the car is moving on momentum (no engine breaking since the clutch is fully engaged, hence the transmission is separated from the engine). = Throw Out Bearing Wear
said that it should always be in neutral and then once the light changes to green , put it into 1st gear and go. But I didn't understand why is bad for keep it in 1st gear with clutch fully pressed.
2. DOWNSHIFT REV-MATCH: Here is my understanding how to do a correct rev-match when downshifting, step-by-step, I just need it confirmed:
rev-match from 4th (~3000 rpm) -> 3rd gear for example
1. Change into neutral
2. Press gas for engine to rev-up
3. Once the needle hits around 4500 rpm put it into 3rd gear
Are these steps correct? Because I have two sub questions about this:
2.1
a) Step # 2, should I press the gas and then let it go (a bit harder so the engine will rev-up to 5-6 rpm for example) and then wait to drop to ~4500 rpm?
OR
b) Should I try to keep the gas until it reaches 4500rpm and then change the gear?
2.2 When changing into 3rd, gas should be pressed a little bit so there would be no engine breaking?
3. General question, is it bad for the clutch to, while waiting on the red light, to keep it all the way down (pressed) while in 1st gear? If yes, why? In some of the previous posts someone
Thanks in advance,
Deky
1. FULL STOP QUESTION:
a) Is it good for the engine/trans/clutch when coming to a red light, to simply put the gear into neutral from 3rd or 4th gear and while holding the clutch fully pressed make a full stop using the breaks? <----NO
OR
b) Put the gear into neutral, release the clutch and make a full stop using the breaks. <----Yes
For either A or B can you explain why? If my understanding of how clutch works is correct, there should be no problem keeping the clutch fully pressed while making a full stop (using the brakes) because the car is moving on momentum (no engine breaking since the clutch is fully engaged, hence the transmission is separated from the engine). = Throw Out Bearing Wear
said that it should always be in neutral and then once the light changes to green , put it into 1st gear and go. But I didn't understand why is bad for keep it in 1st gear with clutch fully pressed.
2. DOWNSHIFT REV-MATCH: Here is my understanding how to do a correct rev-match when downshifting, step-by-step, I just need it confirmed:
rev-match from 4th (~3000 rpm) -> 3rd gear for example
1. Change into neutral
2. Press gas for engine to rev-up
3. Once the needle hits around 4500 rpm put it into 3rd gear
Are these steps correct? Because I have two sub questions about this:
2.1
a) Step # 2, should I press the gas and then let it go (a bit harder so the engine will rev-up to 5-6 rpm for example) and then wait to drop to ~4500 rpm?
OR
b) Should I try to keep the gas until it reaches 4500rpm and then change the gear?
2.2 When changing into 3rd, gas should be pressed a little bit so there would be no engine breaking?
3. General question, is it bad for the clutch to, while waiting on the red light, to keep it all the way down (pressed) while in 1st gear? If yes, why? In some of the previous posts someone
Thanks in advance,
Deky
Registered User
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 119
Likes: 0
I answered his post above.
Can you put the e-brake down and continue to coast down the hill without the engine on? If you can, you shouldn't even put the car in a gear to get down the driveway. If you need a little momentum you can lift the clutch up in reverse a little (just to get the car coasting down hill) and then quickly push the clutch in and keep it pushed in until you need to go forward and change gears.
Can you put the e-brake down and continue to coast down the hill without the engine on? If you can, you shouldn't even put the car in a gear to get down the driveway. If you need a little momentum you can lift the clutch up in reverse a little (just to get the car coasting down hill) and then quickly push the clutch in and keep it pushed in until you need to go forward and change gears.
Anyway, I have to first reverse out of my garage which is leveled so yea I have to gear in to even move. Once half way out on the drive way, it becomes an incline.
I understand what you're saying, but I am a noob (excuse me
) and pushing in the clutch while going down the incline in reverse is okay? I know it disengages the engine from the wheels but no burnin no nothin as long as its pushed in? So if that's true, going down a hill forward shouldn't be any different but we're not supposed to riiiiidddee the clutch...
pushing in the clutch while going down the incline in reverse is okay?
riiiiidddee the clutch...