How to correctly drive an MT.
ok so you know how the g35's clutch disengages half way when releasing the clutch pedal? so you dont have to fully push down the clutch pedal to shift right? no extra wear occurs on your car because you do so? what about if im racing? should i fully engage the clutch or just slightly
ok so you know how the g35's clutch disengages half way when releasing the clutch pedal? so you dont have to fully push down the clutch pedal to shift right? no extra wear occurs on your car because you do so? what about if im racing? should i fully engage the clutch or just slightly
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Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 107
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From: Chino Hills, CA
Our 6mt is definitely quirky, a tad tougher to be smooth with :\ That's for sure after driving all sorts of imports plus tracking, even in comparison with my 00 Max SE and Stage II STi. That high engagement (I adjusted as much as possible for lowered travel) and the snappy spring action (you could feel when pressing the clutch pedal with hands) are the cause. Taking off from a light and 1-2-3 shift takes a bit to be smooth with. What I do before each of these low gear shifts is to quickly bring up the pedal from the bottom to just somewhere 'before' the engagement point, then slow the travel quite a bit at the take up point. This is part of 'finding' the take up. Oh yeah, takes practice on the 6mt, but feels much more seamless betw gears. I'm not riding the clutch, the actual engagement is just like on the other cars. But hey, please depress your pedal all the way down, it will save your plates.
Our 6mt is definitely quirky, a tad tougher to be smooth with :\ That's for sure after driving all sorts of imports plus tracking, even in comparison with my 00 Max SE and Stage II STi. That high engagement (I adjusted as much as possible for lowered travel) and the snappy spring action (you could feel when pressing the clutch pedal with hands) are the cause. Taking off from a light and 1-2-3 shift takes a bit to be smooth with. What I do before each of these low gear shifts is to quickly bring up the pedal from the bottom to just somewhere 'before' the engagement point, then slow the travel quite a bit at the take up point. This is part of 'finding' the take up. Oh yeah, takes practice on the 6mt, but feels much more seamless betw gears. I'm not riding the clutch, the actual engagement is just like on the other cars. But hey, please depress your pedal all the way down, it will save your plates.
yea exactly, it seems so much more seamless when i dont push done the clutch all the way, it feels like an automatic if i shift correctly. what could go potentially go wrong if i continue doing this? ( legit question)
great write-up, chilibowl.
i do rev match (as explained by chilibowl in the original post) to speed up and I am quite good at it.
But, i use the double clutch method and brakes to slow down. i do want to learn the proper way to use brakes and downshifting together to slow down... if I try to do it, the car jerks.... any tips on doing that the proper way?
i do rev match (as explained by chilibowl in the original post) to speed up and I am quite good at it.
But, i use the double clutch method and brakes to slow down. i do want to learn the proper way to use brakes and downshifting together to slow down... if I try to do it, the car jerks.... any tips on doing that the proper way?
Last edited by syshs; Sep 30, 2009 at 12:59 AM.
Nice write-up. There is one thing though.
I didn't read the entire thread (because it's long and I'm lazy) so I don't know if this has been covered, but if so, it still needs to be edited in the original write-up.
You should always have your foot on the brake when sitting at a light. If the car behind you at the light is rear ended and pushed into you, you will be pushed into the next car, or worse yet, if you're first at the light, you'll be pushed into traffic. Having your foot on the brake doesn't guarantee you won't be pushed anyway, but it does go a long way in preventing it.
I didn't read the entire thread (because it's long and I'm lazy) so I don't know if this has been covered, but if so, it still needs to be edited in the original write-up.
unless ur on a hill, you shouldnt have to have your feet on any pedal.
great write-up, chilibowl.
i do rev match (as explained by chilibowl in the original post) to speed up and I am quite good at it.
But, i use the double clutch method and brakes to slow down. i do want to learn the proper way to use brakes and downshifting together to slow down... if I try to do it, the car jerks.... any tips on doing that the proper way?
i do rev match (as explained by chilibowl in the original post) to speed up and I am quite good at it.
But, i use the double clutch method and brakes to slow down. i do want to learn the proper way to use brakes and downshifting together to slow down... if I try to do it, the car jerks.... any tips on doing that the proper way?
You should always have your foot on the brake when sitting at a light. If the car behind you at the light is rear ended and pushed into you, you will be pushed into the next car, or worse yet, if you're first at the light, you'll be pushed into traffic. Having your foot on the brake doesn't guarantee you won't be pushed anyway, but it does go a long way in preventing it.
Also, a good tip I can give to those newer drivers, is to learn how to smoothly shift, with just clutch action. If you can learn how to shift smoothly with barely any throttle input, you will achieve faster shifting skills, quicker. The thing with this transmission though, if there is no throttle input, it can get clanky and loud. To those just learning, go out in your cars and try it(empty parking lot of course). Take off in 1st, shift into 2nd, but when you shift, dont equalize with the gas, just simply let the clutch up nice and smoothly. If you do it correctly, it should be a smooth transition, but the clutch will be clanky. Now if you do the same, but with 25% throttle, you will notice the shafts match up perfectly, and there will be no clutch music.
I'm curious, what causes the clanky sound when you shift without throttle input? Why does adding throttle make the sound go away?