You'd be surprised how many cant properly drive a 6mt. Happens though.

 

You'd be surprised how many can't properly drive.

 

I must say some of you know your S***. I have been driving for 38 years and have had only a few people that could hang with me, i have done rallies been to the track a few times, and drive about 150,000 a year for work. But when i got my 3rd g i went with a 6mt and i beat up my clucth had to replace at 12k. I have been driving stick now for 20 years but allways a work truck. Can't drive a g like a work truck. So with some pointers from some of you me and my new JWT clutch are doing fine... THANKS

 

wow just read all 22 pages of this thread from 3 years ago haha. very informative on the 6mt tranny. i was wondering why it seemed so much harder to drive than most honda/acuras. Thanks Chilibowl and others!

 

so if properly driving a 6mt, how long should your clutch last?... mine is going on 90k and seems like it could go another 20k plus miles...

 

Don't have an answer for you, but I had my transmission out at 75k and was told that my clutch had 60%+ life left. It's obviously a combination of driving style and conditions. Just to add more info, I do a significant amount of driving in San Francisco on those hilly streets, so perhaps starting off from grades is not having much impact on my clutch life.

 

Wow guys these post help me out. I bought my very first MT just so happen to be a G 35 coupe about 2 months ago an I thought I knew it all. Never again will I hold the clutch at a stop light or hold it halfway to level me out on a hill thanks G lovers lol.

 

Thanks for the info I have to admit that I do a few of those things. I have owned my g35 with a MT for a few month now and never noticed that almost every stop light around here is on some sort of incline or my back tires will sit into some sorta dip. What pisses me off is when some dumb *** soccer mom gets with in an inch of my bumper

It was pretty funny to see my friend who drives an acura tl who was giving me crap about killing my car all the time when I 1st driving it kill it 4 times in a row trying to go from a flat surface.

 

If someone is crowding you, or starts creeping forward, slip it in reverse and light up your rev lights. That usually gets them to back off

 

I like this, i was wondering why my 3rd gear was grinding.. thank you for the information
this is what i was thinking in the first place

Thanks G Driver

03 G35 Sport Coupe DG 6MT

 

I know we have synchros and all that great bs all cars come with nowadays, but situations like this is when double clutching becomes useful... step on the clutch twice before getting into gear if you're in neutral. The synchros might be sticking, or maybe they're just moving too fast... either way, they aren't aligning with the gear for you, probably because the tranny isn't warmed up or something, who really cares why? Either or, it can be your clutch, most likely you need to adjust the pedal. Either way, double clutching makes life easier.

And like I've been saying since the beginning of this thread, if you're grinding gears, double clutch when you go into the gear that's grinding. Your gears start grinding when the synchros start wearing out, and obviously, worn parts don't always work correctly.

 

Sounds like he over heated the disc (which is organic, kinda like your brake pads)... most likely taking a good layer off the top. The clutch should be fine after it cools down, but the engagement point might not feel right to you anymore. In which case, rev a bit and hold the RPMs (2000 should be good), and let off the clutch pedal like you normally would, only slower, riding the clutch a bit to even out the disc to "reset" the feel of the engagement point. The idea of this is kinda like sanding down an unevenly worn brake pad, only your clutch has teeth that bite into the organic disc and your brakes don't...

Hmm... that might be a bad suggestion since you can really f*ck things up if you don't do it correctly...

 

You shouldn't even need to have your foot on the clutch pedal when your car is moving, whether you're in forward gear or reverse... but then again, I forgot how the stock clutch feels a loooong time ago.

 

And just to throw a little heat into the mix... smooth shifting really depends on the clutch. It's all about releasing the engagement point as smoothly and quickly as possible, but that's only possible with a clutch with enough springs in the disc.

Good luck dropping the clutch so smoothly when your disc only has two springs, or none at all! It's all about knowing how the engagement point feels, and in some cases, dropping the clutch from the right point and not stalling the car...

If I'm teaching someone how to drive a manual tranny, I make them purposely stall the car twice by letting go of the clutch pedal very slowly just so they can get an idea of and feel for the engagement point. Usually by then, they'll know when to put the foot down to keep the car from stalling.

 

FYI: Double Clutching: depress clutch while lifting throttle, shift into neutral, release clutch for a second so transmission gear set can match speed of output shaft, depress clutch again and shift into next gear, release cutch.

Depress, neutral, release, depress, shift release.