I had read that in drifting you would drop the car in second as your getting towards the turn but you would have the rpms up high, so when you dropped the clutch it would break loose the tires and you would swing around the turn...

 

hey guys,it's almost time for me to take my baby('08 6mt) in for her 1'st service,3750 mi is what is recomended.is there any thing i should beware of at the dealer?i.e trring to sell me xtra **** or services? should this just be an oil chg? they always try to take advantage of a girl!(and not in that "good"way.

 

WTF OT Batman?

 

myspace link or pix of you and we'll tell u all you need to know

p.s. lmao @ OT batman

 

just like the rest of 'em huh? i'm just a car lovin chick,but i,m married.does that mean you wont help me?

 

lol nah it was worth a try though. we always welcome chick enthusiasts, but for next time just make a new thread because your previous post was completely

unrelated to this thread (not trying to be rude ) as for your other question, yeah all you need to get is an oil change. the stealership might try to

sell you random **** (doubt it though) but you really won't need any of it so just go for the oil change and GTFO of there

 

lol, i hope ur joking.

 

Living downtown in a big city does take a toll on a clutch, especially if you aren't afraid to use the muscle you have in a G to make quick moves to take advantage of the holes in traffic. However, a couple of times I think I have spooled up the rpm's too high before letting the clutch out. Is there some "safety" device that prevents the clutch pedal from coming all the way up if the revs are too high? I could swear it happened twice. Lots of revs, let out clutch, it stops just past the friction point and the clutch cooks and I smell that horrible burned, rotten fish smell. If I push the clutch back down, let the revs fall and let the clutch out again, it works. It just seems that the car is intervening somehow when I really try to get moving in a hurry and perhaps overdo it. It only happened a few times and it was so fast that I'm not sure what happened and I don't want to recreate it and take another 10K off my clutch. Anybody else have this happen or know what I might have experienced? Hopefully it wasn't a flashback. I have had lot's of MTs in my 40 years of driving, but none of them had this "feature".

'03 6MT

 

You are toasting your clutch doing that. Most likely you already have.

 

Don't be afraid to lug the motor, it's far less damaging than letting the clutch out with the revs high. It's hard to avoid in city driving, but it will absolutely kill your clutch many 10's of thousands of miles earlier than need be. There's nothing really mechanical than can prevent that; you might consider moving the clutch height engagement lower or higher if that helps (lower I am guessing) but it's really up to your driving not to allow that to happen.

 

The best thing you can do in a city that has hills you must stop on is to learn how to use the hand brake instead of the clutch to hold you on the hills. Very simple.

 

I can drive a MT fine, (mostly, though I have toasted it a few times). No problems on hills, etc.

The point of my question, which nobody has yet addressed was, is there something designed into the G35 6MT that prevents the clutch from coming all the way up if it thinks the revs are too high for the selected gear (usually 2nd) or some other condition exists that the car is programed to prevent?

This has happened to me twice. I see a hole in traffic, rev the engine to about 4k, let the clutch out fast, BUT IT DOESN'T COME ALL THE WAY UP. I don't side-step the clutch, just clutch out quickly. The pedal seems to stick just after the friction point, with the clutch plates not fully engaged. At this point the car isn't accelerating enough so my natural reaction is to give it more throttle. That's when I notice that the revs are spooling up and the clutch pedal is stuck about 1/2 to 3/4 of the way out. This is really bad when you are trying to make a quick move in traffic and your clutch pedal decides to stick at the half way out point. By then, you are committed and have to keep moving, even if your clutch is burning, or risk causing an accident. To get the clutch fully engaged, I have to push the pedal down again, and clutch out. It has happened to me twice and it is really frustrating, but it happens so fast, in a high pressure situation that it's over before I really know what is happening so I'm having a hard time analyzing and describing it. I have never had a car act this way and I have owned many sticks. Is the car intervening in some way to protect the engine or the tranny?

If this is designed into the drivetrain can someone explain what it is, how it works, what set of conditions cause it and what the purpose of it is?

'03 G35 6MT sedan

 

Your clutch is sticking before it fully engages? As in the pedal isn't coming all the way off the floor by itself? Happens a lot in hot weather maybe?

No, this isn't a purposeful design that prevents the clutch from coming all the way up. It's a problem.

Try http://www.my350z.com/forum/showthre...lutch+sticking or any number of threads searching on clutch + stick or sticking.

It's a problem due to usually either a) weak or defective slave cylinder, b) clutch fluid overheating due to the small amount of it and the routing of the line near the exhaust and cat, c) sometimes a problem with the clutch master cylinder. Heat is almost always a factor, whether from headers, normal exhaust pipes, weather (biggest one I can see).

When it's really bad, the clutch just sticks to the floor and is very slow to return at all. If nothing is actually wrong with the clutch components like the slave, M/C, etc. people often change out the fluid to a higher temp fluid like Motul not as affected by heat, and/or replace the stock line with stainless steel shielded with some heat-resistant material.

Your original question sounded more like a driving question which is why you didn't get the answer you are looking for. Nothing is designed to make the clutch stop partway up, this is a problem and yes, it will wear your clutch badly and cause premature replacement, and being a "wear item", isn't usually covered unless the M/C or something is defective.

HTH

 

Great right up.

 

Thanks. I have photos from my slave replacement showing how this problem exists, esp. the line proximity to the driver's side cat, and the inadequate heat shielding.


V35 Clutch Slave Photos -Z33 same