How to correctly drive an MT.
Actually, I meant small differences in RPM between the engine and back of the transmission make more of a difference in lower gears because of the larger difference in ratios between lower gears.
IOW, if you're say 500 revs out of sync when you engage the clutch shifting from 4th to 5th, you won't notice much of a jolt at all, whereas if you're 500 revs out of sync on 1st to 2nd shift, you'll notice more jarring.
IOW, if you're say 500 revs out of sync when you engage the clutch shifting from 4th to 5th, you won't notice much of a jolt at all, whereas if you're 500 revs out of sync on 1st to 2nd shift, you'll notice more jarring.
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From: Auckland
Don't be.
There's a lot of talk around here about modifications to the clutch springs or mounting brackets.
If you get chance to drive a car with the modification I'd give it a try, but until then I'd stick with the stock set up, 'cos for most of us the clutch pedal action is fine as it is.
Keep practising and you'll get the hang of it soon enough.
There's a lot of talk around here about modifications to the clutch springs or mounting brackets.
If you get chance to drive a car with the modification I'd give it a try, but until then I'd stick with the stock set up, 'cos for most of us the clutch pedal action is fine as it is.
Keep practising and you'll get the hang of it soon enough.
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Joined: Dec 2011
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From: Chicago
Actually, I meant small differences in RPM between the engine and back of the transmission make more of a difference in lower gears because of the larger difference in ratios between lower gears.
IOW, if you're say 500 revs out of sync when you engage the clutch shifting from 4th to 5th, you won't notice much of a jolt at all, whereas if you're 500 revs out of sync on 1st to 2nd shift, you'll notice more jarring.
IOW, if you're say 500 revs out of sync when you engage the clutch shifting from 4th to 5th, you won't notice much of a jolt at all, whereas if you're 500 revs out of sync on 1st to 2nd shift, you'll notice more jarring.
Basically it's easier to vary the engine speed in lower gears than upper gears. Thus, any (large or small) differences in engine speed are more easily felt.
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I agree with the second part of your statement (your example), but the first could use more clarification.
Let me try to justify the reason why. In higher gears, the engine rpm difference is less between the gears than it is in lower gears [for the same speed]. Compared to lower gears, the torque multiplication is less in higher gears than lower gears (see ratio table at the end of the post).
That is, to get the torque necessary to get the car moving, an engine has to spin faster. A bicycle is a good analogy to use. To get moving on a steep incline, you shift into a gear arrangement such that the pedals are easy to turn (higher rpm), but the actual speed of the bicycle isn't that great. On a car this would be considered a low gear -- high rpm, but speed is slow.
As a result, small changes in pedal rpm (analogous to rpm of crankshaft/flywheel on the car), result in even smaller changes on the output side - the drive wheel of the bicycle (or the car's driveshaft).
I think we're trying to say the same thing, but are referring to things differently. I say the reason you notice such a jolt when a rpm difference of say 500rpm is present in lower gears is due to this torque multiplication. The entire drive line is more sensitive to rpm changes because of the presence of greater torque potential. At higher forward speeds, the gear ratios are less and the resultant torque factor is also greatly reduced.
2011 G37 sedan 6mt gear ratios.
Gear 1--- 3.794
Gear 2--- 2.324
Gear 3--- 1.624
Gear 4--- 1.271
Gear 5--- 1.000
Gear 6--- 0.794
Final Gear 3.692 (rear end).
So final gear ratio for
1st gear 14.00
2nd gear 8.58
In first gear, for a single revolution of the driving rear wheel, the engine crank has to rotate 14 times, compared to only 8.6 times (rounded) for 2nd.
the new clutch bracket from RJM Performance is an adjustable fulcrum point set up. the big difference is how it's more of a direct link from the pedal to the clutch engagement. it's also fully adjustable and you can adjust where the engagement point is in the pedal travel and also how much pedal travel is required from engage to disengage.
all these people who say "just learn to use it" haven't driven on a modified pedal assembly. if it's your first manual, then i guess you could "learn to use it" but of all the manuals i've driven this is the weirdest. and you can learn it, i did for the first couple months i had the car, but it's always a mental battle of trying to figure out which gear is gonna be the least jerky at which speed and RPM you are at. running a modified bracket makes the whole process INSTINCT. you don't have to think about it.
hands down, my favorite mod to my car. by a mile.
if you have the opportunity, you should hop into some other manuals and see how quick you pick up on them. like an older s-10 truck or some "standard" manuals, not these high end things. i hear BMW has a similar thing on their pedals.
all these people who say "just learn to use it" haven't driven on a modified pedal assembly. if it's your first manual, then i guess you could "learn to use it" but of all the manuals i've driven this is the weirdest. and you can learn it, i did for the first couple months i had the car, but it's always a mental battle of trying to figure out which gear is gonna be the least jerky at which speed and RPM you are at. running a modified bracket makes the whole process INSTINCT. you don't have to think about it.
hands down, my favorite mod to my car. by a mile.
if you have the opportunity, you should hop into some other manuals and see how quick you pick up on them. like an older s-10 truck or some "standard" manuals, not these high end things. i hear BMW has a similar thing on their pedals.
$135.00 shipped
I keep forgetting to install mine. I kinda feel like douchebag because i was a beta tester and never installed it.
I keep forgetting to install mine. I kinda feel like douchebag because i was a beta tester and never installed it.
Last edited by Illuminati; Jan 3, 2012 at 09:26 AM.
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While sitting at a light, never have the clutch-in waiting until the light turns green. This is stupid and the only thing youre doing is tiring your left leg and eating up your throw-out bearing. If your sitting at a light, you simply leave it in neutral, and unless ur on a hill, you shouldnt have to have your feet on any pedal. Once you see that the adjacent light is turning yellow (your turn next), you clutch-in, 1st gear, and you take off. Simple.