Has anyone put on new drilled/slotted rotors on the stock calipers? Is there new brackets that I would have to buy to get the OEM stock calipers to fit on the aftermarket rotors? Is there a site that yall recommend to buy the aftermarket rotors that have good customer service if a problem (fitment) comes about?
Also good pads that do not put out brake dust?
keep in mind i don't want to spend over $500 for rotors and pads.

thanks yall

 

Good luck with that... My rotors cost about 600 by themselves, and that was cheap for a quality part.

 

where did u get them from and did u have any problem installing them.. this might be kind of stupid but does it stop better or any difference?

 

If you get slotted and/or drilled rotors, unless you went with a big brake kit, you won't necessarily be stopping better... you're just eliminating brake fade (which you really won't ever see on the streets).

Brake pads are another story, as are stainless brake lines.

 

I'd just go with stock rotors.

 

I got my rotors from Ocautosports.com ( i think they give free shipping) i paid 240 for all 4 rotors. fit just fine and they are drilled and slotted, then i purchased some hawk pads for $100 or so i think from cvrmotorsports so total $340 which is not too bad. i think i need to change my brake lines and add different brake fluid i feel my pedal is more spongy but still stops good.

 

http://www.z1motorsports.com/350_g35...oducts_id=2122

 

Negative on that.

Disregarding BBK's and Brake setups of 14" on Porsches, Corvettes and other serious high end cars, drilled rotors are for visual only. They do nothing for cooling due to the drilled holes being perpendicular to the airstream bening forced through the internal vents by centrifigal motion.

There is a huge difference between a 14" crossdrilled rotor with a 6-piston caliper and a normal street car with 11" crossdrilled rotors.

MASS is what reduces fade in braking. Only way to gain mass is to install larger rotors. The mass absorbs the heat better and disperses it. By drilling the rotor (one of normal size) you reduce the mass and concentrate the heat.

The main reason to have cross-drilled rotors is aggressive race pads that emit gases. The holes would give the gases a route to escape so they wouldn't push the pads away from the surface of the rotor. Modern street car pads to not vent gas. Some of the exotic cars do have pads that may vent (why i said exotic car brakes should not be compared) so they do have the drilled holes. Also, when you have 13, 14" and larger brakes...you can afford to give up some mass. That is why i say you can't really compare HUGE, massive BBK's to drilled OEM replacement rotors.

What makes a rotor truely better?? The quality of the metal used. Sometimes i wish they provided material cert sheets with the rotors to show what type of metals they were made from. But typically cheap rotors use cheap steels and expensive rotors use quality steel which has been stress reduced to allow even distribution of heat to reduce "warpage" (due to pad friction material transfer)

Slotted rotors due have their arguements. Some claim they help wipe pad dust away by giving it a channel to escape without a significant reduction in rotor mass.

Anyway, despite all this, the average person in the average street car will prob NEVER be able to tell the difference between a crossdrilled rotor and an OEM blank-style rotor. So if you want the look of drilled rotors, go for it. I have a set of zinc-washed drilled rotors I use for the street in my Mustang, but when i go Autocrossing, i swap to my plain-faced Brembo rotors.

 

^ I learn something new everyday...

But there still is the issue of cheap drilled rotors being more likely to crack...

 

I agree 100%. Quality steel costs $$$. You get what you pay for.

 

Not only that, a lot of places drill blank Brembos, etc... and because they drilled into wrong areas of the rotor, they'll still be likely to crack. Just wanted to point that out for these guys reading...

If you're buying drilled rotors, get rotors that are drilled from the factory, not at an aftermarket shop like most of the ones you'll find for cheap on ebay.

 

The proper way to make a drilled rotor is to actually cast the rotor with the holes in it. It's the best way to releive stresses, however usually results in the most expensive rotors.

Drilling after cast creates stresses around the holes that should be releived through heat cycling. Also, the holes must be chamfered....again, to releive stress.


A lot of the Ebay brembo rotors are actually Brembo blank rotors where a 3rd party manufacturer took the rotor and drilled it after the fact. Some take care as to where they drill the holes, some do not like you said.

If you buy x-drilled rotors, you should definitely regularly inspect them for cracks.

 

I would stick with stock...I got ebc dimpled and slotted rotors and hawk hps pads, I like my stock better!!

 

^ I'm personally not a fan of Hawk brake pads... I don't understand the hype at all, they aren't that good.

 

I paid $500 just for my fronts. A lot of people talk about hawk pads but, I personally do not like them. I purchased Project Mu and I love them. Try and stay away from the drilled because they tend to crack