Best Oil for very high temperature conditions?
#1
Best Oil for very high temperature conditions?
I searched and couldn't really find anything.. I looked in the oil analysis thread with all that info and I feel the info sort of contradicts itself..
It says I should be running the thinnest oil possible in an NA setup which is 0w-30 or something, BUT its not really that great for high temperature conditions.. Where I live it gets to be around 115-120+ degrees, and in winters it ranges anywhere from mid 40's in some areas to 60's to 70s/80's if it gets a little warm for the winter.
Reason I'm asking is because I'll most likely be getting a new motor in my car from OC and I want to maintain it as best as I possibly can.
So which oil? 5W-30? 0W-30? I do race and drive hard A LOT. So motor romping will occur. Also, synthetic or non?
I've used Castrol synthetic 5W-30 before, I believe it was the German made kind.. Motor ran pretty well with that one.
Any recommendations?
Edit: I'm also going for some new spark plugs, what are a good type? Colder? Copper? Good brand?
It says I should be running the thinnest oil possible in an NA setup which is 0w-30 or something, BUT its not really that great for high temperature conditions.. Where I live it gets to be around 115-120+ degrees, and in winters it ranges anywhere from mid 40's in some areas to 60's to 70s/80's if it gets a little warm for the winter.
Reason I'm asking is because I'll most likely be getting a new motor in my car from OC and I want to maintain it as best as I possibly can.
So which oil? 5W-30? 0W-30? I do race and drive hard A LOT. So motor romping will occur. Also, synthetic or non?
I've used Castrol synthetic 5W-30 before, I believe it was the German made kind.. Motor ran pretty well with that one.
Any recommendations?
Edit: I'm also going for some new spark plugs, what are a good type? Colder? Copper? Good brand?
#3
Synthetic is better at heat resistance, etc., etc.,.........like the old saying goes, you get what you pay for. That's why synthetic costs more :-)
As for the weight of oil, think of it this way. The lower the first number, the thinner it would be compared to a higher first number (i.e. 5W would be thinner than 20W, just pick up the two weights of the same brand and shake it, you'll notice the difference). Now think of it as a stick of butter if you will. In cold weather, the butter will take longer to melt thus longer to reach your engine parts at start up (where most wear occurs), therefore, a thinner oil would be better during cold months versus a thicker oil. But in hot weather months, the "butter" would already be soft or melted, thus reaching engine parts at start up is not a problem, so a heavier oil would be a better choice AND it would resist heat better than a thinner weight.
Not saying that this is scientific proof or anything, but it's how I approach it. So yes, in cold weather months, I use a thinner weight oil, and in hot summer months, I switch to a heavier weight oil. As for brands, it's personnal choice........but remember the "you get what you pay for" saying.
As for the weight of oil, think of it this way. The lower the first number, the thinner it would be compared to a higher first number (i.e. 5W would be thinner than 20W, just pick up the two weights of the same brand and shake it, you'll notice the difference). Now think of it as a stick of butter if you will. In cold weather, the butter will take longer to melt thus longer to reach your engine parts at start up (where most wear occurs), therefore, a thinner oil would be better during cold months versus a thicker oil. But in hot weather months, the "butter" would already be soft or melted, thus reaching engine parts at start up is not a problem, so a heavier oil would be a better choice AND it would resist heat better than a thinner weight.
Not saying that this is scientific proof or anything, but it's how I approach it. So yes, in cold weather months, I use a thinner weight oil, and in hot summer months, I switch to a heavier weight oil. As for brands, it's personnal choice........but remember the "you get what you pay for" saying.
#4
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http://ngksparkplugs.ecrater.com/pro...hp?pid=2031849
#5
A lot uf us use these iridiums. Best price I have found as well, just over $6/plug shipped.
http://ngksparkplugs.ecrater.com/pro...hp?pid=2031849
http://ngksparkplugs.ecrater.com/pro...hp?pid=2031849
Thanks for the link thats a great price.
#6
I think that you guys are over-analyzing this oil stuff. Whether it's 30 degrees out or 115, your engine runs at about the same temperature, so the recommended oil works just fine. The only difference is that it takes the engine and oil a bit longer to warm up in the cold. As long as the oil doesn't gel at low temperature, it's fine.
When it's cold, just baby the engine until it warms up. No full throttle, no high RPM and no stabbing the gas. Once the temperature needle starts moving up, you can start using the engine normally.
I'd change the oil weight only if I was putting the engine through some real torture, like track driving (which I do). I've tracked the G35 in 110 degree heat with standard 5W-30 dino with no ill effects. My oil life was reduced, though. If I were to guess, ~300 miles on the track is about equivalent to a full oil change interval.
When it's cold, just baby the engine until it warms up. No full throttle, no high RPM and no stabbing the gas. Once the temperature needle starts moving up, you can start using the engine normally.
I'd change the oil weight only if I was putting the engine through some real torture, like track driving (which I do). I've tracked the G35 in 110 degree heat with standard 5W-30 dino with no ill effects. My oil life was reduced, though. If I were to guess, ~300 miles on the track is about equivalent to a full oil change interval.
#7
True, for everyday normal driving, the recommended oil will suffice. However, the original author did ask what would be best for maintaining his/her engine.
It's like choosing a piece of beef for dinner. You could either pick a chuck steak or a filet mignon. Both will do the job, but are you willing to spend the extra cash for the higher quality and satisfaction?
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#8
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#9
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Quality synthetics work well in all temperatures!
There are as many opinions about oil as there are members. If you like and respect all things mechanical like I do synthetic is the only way to go. It doesn't matter if you use Amsol or my favorite Red Line they're both quality lubricants that work well in all temperatures. Mobil 1 and their filters work fine too....the choice is up to you.
Gary
Gary
Last edited by gary c; 08-08-2010 at 08:49 PM.
#11
Synthetic is better at heat resistance, etc., etc.,.........like the old saying goes, you get what you pay for. That's why synthetic costs more :-)
As for the weight of oil, think of it this way. The lower the first number, the thinner it would be compared to a higher first number (i.e. 5W would be thinner than 20W, just pick up the two weights of the same brand and shake it, you'll notice the difference). Now think of it as a stick of butter if you will. In cold weather, the butter will take longer to melt thus longer to reach your engine parts at start up (where most wear occurs), therefore, a thinner oil would be better during cold months versus a thicker oil. But in hot weather months, the "butter" would already be soft or melted, thus reaching engine parts at start up is not a problem, so a heavier oil would be a better choice AND it would resist heat better than a thinner weight.
Not saying that this is scientific proof or anything, but it's how I approach it. So yes, in cold weather months, I use a thinner weight oil, and in hot summer months, I switch to a heavier weight oil. As for brands, it's personnal choice........but remember the "you get what you pay for" saying.
As for the weight of oil, think of it this way. The lower the first number, the thinner it would be compared to a higher first number (i.e. 5W would be thinner than 20W, just pick up the two weights of the same brand and shake it, you'll notice the difference). Now think of it as a stick of butter if you will. In cold weather, the butter will take longer to melt thus longer to reach your engine parts at start up (where most wear occurs), therefore, a thinner oil would be better during cold months versus a thicker oil. But in hot weather months, the "butter" would already be soft or melted, thus reaching engine parts at start up is not a problem, so a heavier oil would be a better choice AND it would resist heat better than a thinner weight.
Not saying that this is scientific proof or anything, but it's how I approach it. So yes, in cold weather months, I use a thinner weight oil, and in hot summer months, I switch to a heavier weight oil. As for brands, it's personnal choice........but remember the "you get what you pay for" saying.
I would basically look at the average low temperature of the day and purchase by that factor based on common viscosity charts. If you race a lot you may want to consider a system to prepressurize your oil passes.
#12
True, for everyday normal driving, the recommended oil will suffice. However, the original author did ask what would be best for maintaining his/her engine.
It's like choosing a piece of beef for dinner. You could either pick a chuck steak or a filet mignon. Both will do the job, but are you willing to spend the extra cash for the higher quality and satisfaction?
It's like choosing a piece of beef for dinner. You could either pick a chuck steak or a filet mignon. Both will do the job, but are you willing to spend the extra cash for the higher quality and satisfaction?
I agree with the others that for sustained high temperature operations, you want a high quality synthetic oil because they aren't as susceptible to temperature breakdown. In my track car, I use exclusively Redline oil for that reason, it's expensive but I don't want to blow up that engine. I've moved my G over to the cheaper full synthetics, like Mobil 1.