What did you do to the G today?
#6166
#6168
Originally Posted by Conissah
Installed front studs and spacers to try and dial in my fitment. Then gave her a nice wash cause she needed it. Also wrapped my steering wheel the other day cause it was peeling. Took a little while but I love the look and feel of this $5 cover.
Wheels fit well
#6169
so last night, trying to fix a passenger headlight that was out I was messing around and the running light on that housing went out. i pulled it out and pretty much in the dark was trying to get it working again and i popped something. no tail lights, no corner or turn signal running lights, no dash clock illumination. the brake lights worked and turn signals worked, but no running lights on the rear.. so NOT the brakeswitch on the pedal.
drove home carefully with no back lights and started researching. i had already checked all the fuses and found one of the BLOWER fuses in the driver kickpanel was popped..replaced it and... no joy. I went back online and found answers everywhere from the BCM to the rear ground lug.. and finally, on another forum.. I found the answer. The hidden fuse box, behind the battery. You need to remove the battery cover, and remove the wiper cowl on the passenger side to slide the cover up and off of it. The 10amp Stop Lamp fuse was blown and provided the fix.
So there you go.. there are 3 fuse boxes in this car. (2003 6mt coupe) make sure you don't give up on electrical issues before checking every fuse in all of them.
drove home carefully with no back lights and started researching. i had already checked all the fuses and found one of the BLOWER fuses in the driver kickpanel was popped..replaced it and... no joy. I went back online and found answers everywhere from the BCM to the rear ground lug.. and finally, on another forum.. I found the answer. The hidden fuse box, behind the battery. You need to remove the battery cover, and remove the wiper cowl on the passenger side to slide the cover up and off of it. The 10amp Stop Lamp fuse was blown and provided the fix.
So there you go.. there are 3 fuse boxes in this car. (2003 6mt coupe) make sure you don't give up on electrical issues before checking every fuse in all of them.
#6170
so last night, trying to fix a passenger headlight that was out I was messing around and the running light on that housing went out. i pulled it out and pretty much in the dark was trying to get it working again and i popped something. no tail lights, no corner or turn signal running lights, no dash clock illumination. the brake lights worked and turn signals worked, but no running lights on the rear.. so NOT the brakeswitch on the pedal.
drove home carefully with no back lights and started researching. i had already checked all the fuses and found one of the BLOWER fuses in the driver kickpanel was popped..replaced it and... no joy. I went back online and found answers everywhere from the BCM to the rear ground lug.. and finally, on another forum.. I found the answer. The hidden fuse box, behind the battery. You need to remove the battery cover, and remove the wiper cowl on the passenger side to slide the cover up and off of it. The 10amp Stop Lamp fuse was blown and provided the fix.
So there you go.. there are 3 fuse boxes in this car. (2003 6mt coupe) make sure you don't give up on electrical issues before checking every fuse in all of them.
drove home carefully with no back lights and started researching. i had already checked all the fuses and found one of the BLOWER fuses in the driver kickpanel was popped..replaced it and... no joy. I went back online and found answers everywhere from the BCM to the rear ground lug.. and finally, on another forum.. I found the answer. The hidden fuse box, behind the battery. You need to remove the battery cover, and remove the wiper cowl on the passenger side to slide the cover up and off of it. The 10amp Stop Lamp fuse was blown and provided the fix.
So there you go.. there are 3 fuse boxes in this car. (2003 6mt coupe) make sure you don't give up on electrical issues before checking every fuse in all of them.
#6171
Well that sucks. First time mine has blown. The led bulbs in the running lights on the side of the headlight are pretty cheaply made and don't fit well in the socket. It shorted when I was messing around in the dark. Got to be a way to upgrade the harness and prevent the bad connections..right?
#6174
Installed EPS Tuning Aluminum Driveshaft, NWP TB, and Admin Tuning 3.5" intake over the weekend. Ran into a problem when one of the bolts for the plenum was over-torqued and snapped off into the lower plenum. Had to switch it out with my buddies.
Ran some data logs and got it re-tuned on the street by RZG Motorsports. Power doesn't fall off at all around the usual 6k+ rpm. It's like driving a brand new car, made me fall in love all over again. Will be getting it dyno'd very soon.
Ran some data logs and got it re-tuned on the street by RZG Motorsports. Power doesn't fall off at all around the usual 6k+ rpm. It's like driving a brand new car, made me fall in love all over again. Will be getting it dyno'd very soon.
#6175
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Frostbite91 (05-23-2016)
#6176
PS : Don't double up the thread, you'll run out since they only give you one spool. And since it's nylon, burn the knot once it's tied to clean things up.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/161719700462?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
#6177
Premier Member
iTrader: (11)
I replaced:
Front Struts
Strut mounts
Ball joints
Compression rods
Tie rods ends
Front and rear sway bar end links
rear shocks
Removed SPC front upper arms and went back to stock arms
I basically threw parts at a clunking noise I've been having. Good news, I fixed it! The right side tie rod end and sway bar endlink were most likely the problem, lots of play when I got them off the car. The right side ball joint was a little suspect also, but the boot was torn so would've gone bad soon anyway. It's like having a new car again, rides so smooth now.
Edit:
Forgot to mention I also replaced Spark plugs, PCV valve, upstream O2 sensors, and installed PCV hoses from Z1 due to a tear in the old hoses.
Car should be set for another 200K miles.
Front Struts
Strut mounts
Ball joints
Compression rods
Tie rods ends
Front and rear sway bar end links
rear shocks
Removed SPC front upper arms and went back to stock arms
I basically threw parts at a clunking noise I've been having. Good news, I fixed it! The right side tie rod end and sway bar endlink were most likely the problem, lots of play when I got them off the car. The right side ball joint was a little suspect also, but the boot was torn so would've gone bad soon anyway. It's like having a new car again, rides so smooth now.
Edit:
Forgot to mention I also replaced Spark plugs, PCV valve, upstream O2 sensors, and installed PCV hoses from Z1 due to a tear in the old hoses.
Car should be set for another 200K miles.
Last edited by LoSt180; 05-24-2016 at 10:34 AM.
The following users liked this post:
Frankieg35 (05-24-2016)
#6178
I replaced:
Front Struts
Strut mounts
Ball joints
Compression rods
Tie rods ends
Front and rear sway bar end links
rear shocks
Removed SPC front upper arms and went back to stock arms
I basically threw parts at a clunking noise I've been having. Good news, I fixed it! The right side tie rod end and sway bar endlink were most likely the problem, lots of play when I got them off the car. The right side ball joint was a little suspect also, but the boot was torn so would've gone bad soon anyway. It's like having a new car again, rides so smooth now.
Edit:
Forgot to mention I also replaced Spark plugs, PCV valve, upstream O2 sensors, and installed PCV hoses from Z1 due to a tear in the old hoses.
Car should be set for another 200K miles.
Front Struts
Strut mounts
Ball joints
Compression rods
Tie rods ends
Front and rear sway bar end links
rear shocks
Removed SPC front upper arms and went back to stock arms
I basically threw parts at a clunking noise I've been having. Good news, I fixed it! The right side tie rod end and sway bar endlink were most likely the problem, lots of play when I got them off the car. The right side ball joint was a little suspect also, but the boot was torn so would've gone bad soon anyway. It's like having a new car again, rides so smooth now.
Edit:
Forgot to mention I also replaced Spark plugs, PCV valve, upstream O2 sensors, and installed PCV hoses from Z1 due to a tear in the old hoses.
Car should be set for another 200K miles.
Dammm bro u just built a new G
good ****