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G35 & G37, Coupes & Sedans

What did you do to the G today?

Old May 22, 2016 | 11:57 AM
  #6166  
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Installed front studs and spacers to try and dial in my fitment. Then gave her a nice wash cause she needed it. Also wrapped my steering wheel the other day cause it was peeling. Took a little while but I love the look and feel of this $5 cover.




 
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Old May 22, 2016 | 12:21 PM
  #6167  
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Originally Posted by jerseytaylor
going down to sit in the garage?
Its gonna sit in your garage
 
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Old May 22, 2016 | 07:07 PM
  #6168  
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Originally Posted by Conissah
Installed front studs and spacers to try and dial in my fitment. Then gave her a nice wash cause she needed it. Also wrapped my steering wheel the other day cause it was peeling. Took a little while but I love the look and feel of this $5 cover.




Nice job
Wheels fit well
 
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Old May 22, 2016 | 07:25 PM
  #6169  
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so last night, trying to fix a passenger headlight that was out I was messing around and the running light on that housing went out. i pulled it out and pretty much in the dark was trying to get it working again and i popped something. no tail lights, no corner or turn signal running lights, no dash clock illumination. the brake lights worked and turn signals worked, but no running lights on the rear.. so NOT the brakeswitch on the pedal.

drove home carefully with no back lights and started researching. i had already checked all the fuses and found one of the BLOWER fuses in the driver kickpanel was popped..replaced it and... no joy. I went back online and found answers everywhere from the BCM to the rear ground lug.. and finally, on another forum.. I found the answer. The hidden fuse box, behind the battery. You need to remove the battery cover, and remove the wiper cowl on the passenger side to slide the cover up and off of it. The 10amp Stop Lamp fuse was blown and provided the fix.

So there you go.. there are 3 fuse boxes in this car. (2003 6mt coupe) make sure you don't give up on electrical issues before checking every fuse in all of them.
 
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Old May 22, 2016 | 07:42 PM
  #6170  
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Originally Posted by EPiK
so last night, trying to fix a passenger headlight that was out I was messing around and the running light on that housing went out. i pulled it out and pretty much in the dark was trying to get it working again and i popped something. no tail lights, no corner or turn signal running lights, no dash clock illumination. the brake lights worked and turn signals worked, but no running lights on the rear.. so NOT the brakeswitch on the pedal.

drove home carefully with no back lights and started researching. i had already checked all the fuses and found one of the BLOWER fuses in the driver kickpanel was popped..replaced it and... no joy. I went back online and found answers everywhere from the BCM to the rear ground lug.. and finally, on another forum.. I found the answer. The hidden fuse box, behind the battery. You need to remove the battery cover, and remove the wiper cowl on the passenger side to slide the cover up and off of it. The 10amp Stop Lamp fuse was blown and provided the fix.

So there you go.. there are 3 fuse boxes in this car. (2003 6mt coupe) make sure you don't give up on electrical issues before checking every fuse in all of them.
this fuse pops all the time. call it crappy electrical engineering on Nissan's part. I cant even install my LED's up front because they pop the fuse. They work great in the back though
 
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Old May 22, 2016 | 08:01 PM
  #6171  
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Well that sucks. First time mine has blown. The led bulbs in the running lights on the side of the headlight are pretty cheaply made and don't fit well in the socket. It shorted when I was messing around in the dark. Got to be a way to upgrade the harness and prevent the bad connections..right?
 
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Old May 23, 2016 | 01:07 AM
  #6172  
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I had to replace a fuse behind the battery ^
 
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Old May 23, 2016 | 02:02 AM
  #6173  
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Originally Posted by Conissah
Installed front studs and spacers to try and dial in my fitment. Then gave her a nice wash cause she needed it. Also wrapped my steering wheel the other day cause it was peeling. Took a little while but I love the look and feel of this $5 cover.
]
i need to so the same with my sterring wheel cover! where did u get it done, how long did it take and how much
 
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Old May 23, 2016 | 11:05 AM
  #6174  
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From: Chicago, IL
Installed EPS Tuning Aluminum Driveshaft, NWP TB, and Admin Tuning 3.5" intake over the weekend. Ran into a problem when one of the bolts for the plenum was over-torqued and snapped off into the lower plenum. Had to switch it out with my buddies.

Ran some data logs and got it re-tuned on the street by RZG Motorsports. Power doesn't fall off at all around the usual 6k+ rpm. It's like driving a brand new car, made me fall in love all over again. Will be getting it dyno'd very soon.
 
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Old May 23, 2016 | 12:16 PM
  #6175  
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Looking good frostbite.
 
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Old May 23, 2016 | 10:17 PM
  #6176  
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From: Charlotte, NC
Originally Posted by djfarhan
i need to so the same with my sterring wheel cover! where did u get it done, how long did it take and how much
$5.59 self stitch cover on eBay. Did it in my garage and it took like 90 mins or so. Just take your time and it'll come out nice.

PS : Don't double up the thread, you'll run out since they only give you one spool. And since it's nylon, burn the knot once it's tied to clean things up.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/161719700462?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
 
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Old May 24, 2016 | 08:47 AM
  #6177  
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I replaced:
Front Struts
Strut mounts
Ball joints
Compression rods
Tie rods ends
Front and rear sway bar end links
rear shocks
Removed SPC front upper arms and went back to stock arms

I basically threw parts at a clunking noise I've been having. Good news, I fixed it! The right side tie rod end and sway bar endlink were most likely the problem, lots of play when I got them off the car. The right side ball joint was a little suspect also, but the boot was torn so would've gone bad soon anyway. It's like having a new car again, rides so smooth now.

Edit:
Forgot to mention I also replaced Spark plugs, PCV valve, upstream O2 sensors, and installed PCV hoses from Z1 due to a tear in the old hoses.
Car should be set for another 200K miles.
 

Last edited by LoSt180; May 24, 2016 at 10:34 AM.
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Old May 24, 2016 | 12:12 PM
  #6178  
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Originally Posted by LoSt180
I replaced:
Front Struts
Strut mounts
Ball joints
Compression rods
Tie rods ends
Front and rear sway bar end links
rear shocks
Removed SPC front upper arms and went back to stock arms

I basically threw parts at a clunking noise I've been having. Good news, I fixed it! The right side tie rod end and sway bar endlink were most likely the problem, lots of play when I got them off the car. The right side ball joint was a little suspect also, but the boot was torn so would've gone bad soon anyway. It's like having a new car again, rides so smooth now.

Edit:
Forgot to mention I also replaced Spark plugs, PCV valve, upstream O2 sensors, and installed PCV hoses from Z1 due to a tear in the old hoses.
Car should be set for another 200K miles.

Dammm bro u just built a new G
good ****
 
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Old May 24, 2016 | 05:34 PM
  #6179  
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wow didnt know nissan brought back the datsun brand in 2013 in select markets
 
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Old May 24, 2016 | 07:51 PM
  #6180  
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Originally Posted by saywat?
wow didnt know nissan brought back the datsun brand in 2013 in select markets
That's what you did to the G today?
 
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