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4300K or bust for output. There is a reason OEM's don't sell over 6000k, it's a bloody waste of money!
I respectfully disagree
Although the overall light output is less, the 8000k are PLENTY bright and now the headlights, side marker lights and the running light in the headlight housing all match! I love it. I'll try to get a better camera exposure, but they look awesome!
At the same time I replaced the cam and crank sensors and had the throttle body, MAF and fuel system cleaned. The TB was DIRTY! Once it was cleaned the car was idiling at 1200rpm until the relearn procedure! Throttle response is completely different and smooth now.
Next step is new JWT clutch and new flywheel friction surface, tranny fluid and clutch fluid.
Then I just ordered Fortune Auto 500 coilovers with Swift springs and will have the clicking Axel's lubed at the same time.
Lots more to come on top of that....this will be a running post over the next 2+ months!
But, this Saturday the ISF is getting some attention
Although the overall light output is less, the 8000k are PLENTY bright and now the headlights, side marker lights and the running light in the headlight housing all match! I love it. I'll try to get a better camera exposure, but they look awesome!
Your car your choice, but see below.
The 6500k bulb has the least output, I wished they would've tested an aftermarket higher kelvin temp bulb!
Trust me, they are plenty bright enough. No noticeable decrease in nighttime visibility and in some regards visibility is even better due to the very white light.
Took some hail damage as I was trying to do be a good student and study for my exams. So far 2 decent sized dents in the hood. Tomorrow when it's daylight outside will be the true test. Yay for the stupid NC weather. Makes me want to leave more and more everyday.
Took some hail damage as I was trying to do be a good student and study for my exams. So far 2 decent sized dents in the hood. Tomorrow when it's daylight outside will be the true test. Yay for the stupid NC weather. Makes me want to leave more and more everyday.
Pay for covered parking, your car deserves it next semester.
Originally Posted by JZ39
Trust me, they are plenty bright enough. No noticeable decrease in nighttime visibility and in some regards visibility is even better due to the very white light.
No, it's not, but keep thinking that. If you like the blue color that is fine, just stop trying to act like it has more output than a stock 4300k bulb. Please tell me it's an D2R and not an D2S. I'll give you that a new bulb has better output than an old worn out OEM one though.
Trust me, they are plenty bright enough. No noticeable decrease in nighttime visibility and in some regards visibility is even better due to the very white light.
You can disagree with Urban all you want and defend your opinion but you can't argue with the facts of science. It's been technically proven that after 4300-5000K the usable light and penetration of said light drops off dramatically/progressively as you get higher and higher in the kelvin scale. It will appear brighter to the naked eye because of the color but it's not as effective in illumination as it seems.
If you doubt what we say just google the comparisons and you'll see we speak the truth.
You can disagree with Urban all you want and defend your opinion but you can't argue with the facts of science. It's been technically proven that after 4300-5000K the usable light and penetration of said light drops off dramatically/progressively as you get higher and higher in the kelvin scale. It will appear brighter to the naked eye because of the color but it's not as effective in illumination as it seems.
If you doubt what we say just google the comparisons and you'll see we speak the truth.
Dude, did you read the first words of my original post: let me refresh you, they said, verbatim, "Although the light output is less..."
Then I simply said that there was plenty of useable light....
And that the bright white (they do not look blue at all) illuminated the road very well. When I first got 8000k LEDs for the interior and side markers I expected them to have more blue in them, but they didn't, which is why I gave the 8k headlights a try, to match the side marker lights. I even recontacted the vendor thinking they sent me 6k bulbs instead, but they were indeed 8ks. And interestingly there seems to be almost perfect white light like in my pics above.
Honestly, I know you are a patriarch on this site, but you could stand to chill out a bit with your responses to people's posts and do so in a more respectful way. I haven't been on this site in a long time and I thought I would share the considerable work that I'm putting into my car in the next few months with the forum. This site is much, much less mature than it was back in the day, but still a place that I like to visit. I do only quality work to my car and my mechanic is a Nissan GTR master technician, and it is kept very classy...trust me when I tell you that if the 8000k bulbs looked in any way cheezy or compromised safety they would not be on my car. At this point I think we can agree to disagree over something as silly as a lightbulb...I put pics up for the reference of the forum and each member can decide their own opinion, including yourself.
Urban--how tough was it to remove all of those bushings? Can you share your experience on how you did it, what tools, etc? I've been looking into the Whiteline essential bushing kit, but am hesitant to pull the trigger if it's going to be a massive labor undertaking.
How about the diff bushings as well? Those things look pretty massive and not like they are wanting to come out!
Urban--how tough was it to remove all of those bushings? Can you share your experience on how you did it, what tools, etc? I've been looking into the Whiteline essential bushing kit, but am hesitant to pull the trigger if it's going to be a massive labor undertaking.
How about the diff bushings as well? Those things look pretty massive and not like they are wanting to come out!
I'll bump Scragglerocks' suspension post when the time is right showing the work necessary and the snags I ran into. Finding I had a bad rear wheel bearing threw a wrench into my plans. Car has been floating for about 7 days now, and I have the luxury of a few extra cars so no biggie with down time FOR ME.
Diff bushings in the diff ears aren't so bad, it's the subframe bushing that is sketchy. You pretty much have to cut it out of the sub frame while on the car with a saws all. There's a 350z writeup about it, I'll post about it later in the appropriate thread.
Spring break and tax returns. How did I spend mine?
Started off with a Megan racing "track" coilovers (pillow top mounts All around)
Megan front strut tower brace, hotchkis adjustable front sway bar, new rear lower control arms, camber bolt kit, new rear tires, and aluminum under-shroud for engine, and a new set of timken hub assemblies for the front.
I went with the Megan racing coilovers because they were "true" coilovers (wanted to be consistent in all four corners) These things are the bomb! Front is set from soft, 12 clicks and the Rear 2clicks from soft. For daily driving, the preload is plenty stiff enough for spirited driving. (Didn't have to cut any bolts off this time, lol)
I didn't lower it but 1/2" from stock height because I have yet to get the adjustable control arms. Project for another day.
SLICK'S in Exclusive Auto body Valencia having some quality corrections to the work done installing my duck bill trunk lid and rear bumper from the last (less than quality) body shop! While she's there the front bumper took a hit from a rock that glanced off my grille, they're both being stripped and repainted. She went in Monday, with luck she'll be back in my garage by Saturday or Monday...job done perfectly is all I really care about! Gary
Spring break and tax returns. How did I spend mine?
Started off with a Megan racing "track" coilovers (pillow top mounts All around)
Megan front strut tower brace, hotchkis adjustable front sway bar, new rear lower control arms, camber bolt kit, new rear tires, and aluminum under-shroud for engine, and a new set of timken hub assemblies for the front.
I went with the Megan racing coilovers because they were "true" coilovers (wanted to be consistent in all four corners) These things are the bomb! Front is set from soft, 12 clicks and the Rear 2clicks from soft. For daily driving, the preload is plenty stiff enough for spirited driving. (Didn't have to cut any bolts off this time, lol)
I didn't lower it but 1/2" from stock height because I have yet to get the adjustable control arms. Project for another day.
