ceramic film is very common for all tint. I'm referring to specifically 3M Crystalline Series tint. They have a very light, almost clear, shade that's barely noticeable.
I drove my brother-in-law's car with a tinted windshield and couldn't stand it at night. It was ok in town, but as soon as I got out where there are zero street lights it was pretty sketchy.
So far I just slap up a sun shade in the summer.
So you would say yes to the 3m clear film but no to any film with a tint to it?
Car had been feeling a bit sluggish, rough-ish idle, and noticed the throttle response wasn't as good as it should be. Almost as if it had a bad coil pack or other ignition issue.
I cleaned the MAF, throttle body, and replaced air filter a couple of months ago just as regular maintenance, I never reset the ECU or relearned the throttle body. Today I had some time to kill and was bored so I tried it along with Accelerator Pedal Release Position Learning, Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning, and Idle Air Volume Learning (Throttle Position Learning).
Idles much much smoother, throttle response is sharp again, transmission shifts quicker and firmer. I overlooked the importance of doing this and would recommend anyone with a higher mileage car that might not be driving the way it once did to give it a shot, it's quick and easy and who knows when it was last done, if ever.
Pedal dance reset for ECU, throttle position, throttle closed, idle air. Cleaned up a little pinging issue I was having as low RPM/throttle position under load.
Pedal dance reset for ECU, throttle position, throttle closed, idle air. Cleaned up a little pinging issue I was having as low RPM/throttle position under load.
I tried to that to fix my 900 rpm idle I can't get it -_-
This reply is useless without pics. Like a girl telling you she just got implants wearing a big heavy coat and doesn't show you the work. Whenever time allows I'm gonna finish piecing together my audio build. I'm starting on a CLD, CCF, MLV with butyl strips in cracks and crevices. What brand/amps did you go with. Did you keep the factory B+ hooked up? What about alt to starter connection. I don't have a crimper so I was debating ferrule sleeves in set screw connections
The alternator I also had sitting in my garage months till I got it installed, I bought it on ebay new, I don't remember the brand but it's 180 amp, they have some higher amp (240)
Changed out the front main seal. Wasn't 100% sure if it was the source of the oil leak, but after removing the old one I could see it was hard/brittle and cracked. (pic too large to upload)
Just as I was tying up the repair I found the rad drain plug leaking, a half turn more and it snapped off so I had to improvise till I pick up the replacement tomorrow morning.
