Why go through all that when u know the oil line just came off? U can run a motor for a few minutes after draining the oil without causing any damage.
Because I didn’t know the oil line had all together came off at that point in time. I was simply trying to add oil just to creep home. That puddle came after adding oil.
I was was thinking maybe a line chafed, bad seal or cracked oil filter. I couldn’t see where it was coming from until I jacked it up and pulled back the panel.
Honestly, I was in panic mode. I know plenty of guys who have spun bearings due to oil starvation.
@joeb why do you run an oil cooler? It looks cool if you can see it through your bumper. I thought it only benefits if you track hard or go FI. But wouldn't the oil cooler slow the warm up time of the engine when you first start driving, and every oil has an operating temperature that it works best at?
@joeb why do you run an oil cooler? It looks cool if you can see it through your bumper. I thought it only benefits if you track hard or go FI. But wouldn't the oil cooler slow the warm up time of the engine when you first start driving, and every oil has an operating temperature that it works best at?
I am FI and I do track the car. The passenger opening has the oil cooler as well as some of the intercooler and it’s piping behind it.
The warm up time isn’t effected as the Mocal plate is thermostatic. So it opens when your oil is hot.
LOL! That’s kind of funny to hear about just paying off your car! I think I paid mine off over 10 years ago, Realizing of course that yours was used.
I did purchase a new oem cowl for the windshield to replace the somewhat sun faded one on my car. It is so nice and shiny black! Part of my every spring restoration project to begin once the weather breaks.
This year I will be painting the hood, front and rear bumpers and dealing with all of the new minor scratches my kids put in the car over the last year! Also will replace the rubber around the drivers window as I’ve started to get a whistle at speed from air leaking in.
Getting the seat bolster on the drivers side replaced.
Double din radio installed with oem faceplate.
Installing stiffer shock and spring settings on my Fortune coilovers - their suggested 10k/8k settings are way too soft for me. 10k in front is not bad, but 8k in rear is way soft. Going up to 12k rear and will then see how the front is. Might move up to 12k there as well.
Should be a fun year and get me ever so much closer to having the car where I want it to be.
Touch up paint day, this winter wasn't kind and I had about 20 small chips about the size of a ballpoint pen and 5 that were a tad bigger and went down to the metal, had to go get a new paint pen from Nissan because my last one dried up for some reason. Weather was perfect.
Is that the touch-up pen that can also rub off surface rust and then apply the paint ? I have a few nicks that need touched-up and they do have surface rust developed.
Is that the touch-up pen that can also rub off surface rust and then apply the paint ? I have a few nicks that need touched-up and they do have surface rust developed.
Yeah it's got this little white chisel tip that must be made of a rock or something, worked perfectly. You don't actually have to buy them through Nissan either I found out they're made by Dupli-Color and you can purchase them for cheaper directly through Amazon you just need the paint color code or the factory name of the paint for pretty much any model of vehicle.
ART pipes + coupe or sedan middy on my sedan was a too raspy, so in T-minus 10 minutes the work day will be over, then I can throw the G on our lift, and my buddy is showing up with his TIG to help cut up my old sedan mid pipe and weld a couple of Dodge Hellcat resonators in place of the gigantor bulky sedan resonator! He isn't convinced that the 2.5" ART exiting into the smaller Ø HR y (2.0" or 2.25"?) are causing the rasp introduced by my ART pipes, so we're going to experiment with a few things, though in the end we may end up building a 2.5" to 2.5" y pipe to match all the diameters. Either way, I'm excited to find out!
ART pipes + coupe or sedan middy on my sedan was a too raspy, so in T-minus 10 minutes the work day will be over, then I can throw the G on our lift, and my buddy is showing up with his TIG to help cut up my old sedan mid pipe and weld a couple of Dodge Hellcat resonators in place of the gigantor bulky sedan resonator! He isn't convinced that the 2.5" ART exiting into the smaller Ø HR y (2.0" or 2.25"?) are causing the rasp introduced by my ART pipes, so we're going to experiment with a few things, though in the end we may end up building a 2.5" to 2.5" y pipe to match all the diameters. Either way, I'm excited to find out!
Read post #3 and #5, you will probably get an idea why changing the diameter (and thus the velocity of the pulses) affects rasp. Switching diameter quickly (and then back again) affects velocity in negative ways.
