Acceleration is too slow (8 sec 0-60 mph)! why?
#62
02-05-2011, 07:04 PM
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#63
02-05-2011, 10:41 PM
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well, i guess ill throw in my 2 cents, as worthless as it may be to most.
Everyone is stuck on launches, VDC, and loads, and the fact that its a 5AT. all of this stuff is a factor. but not the most important ones.
Number 1:
The fact that you live in russia tells me that your intake air charge isnt going to be optimal, prolly not even good. You want a cold, dense charge of air entering your intake. so you want about 25% humidity and about 55-60 degrees. for those of you that think weather cant make that big of a difference, drive your car hard in 80-90 degree weather and then again in 50 degree weather. you will see a 1.5-2.5 sec difference just because of intake air charge.
Number 2:
no 2 engines run the same. so inquiring on others times is irrelevent. It may put you in a ballpark, but nowhere close to anything actual unless you are lucky.
Number 3:
I would look at my fuel trims on a scan tool. You are dealing with an adaptive learning OBDII system. if you arent pushing your car to the limits 75% of the time, you will get what us technicians call "driveability lag". the ECU adapts to your normal or common driving style. the best thing to do is dyno tune the car. i have seen 20hp gains from a stock car just by electronically unlocking your cars full potential. bear in mind also that you are dealing with a "drive by wire" car. so throttle response is electronically controlled instead of cable controlled. this combined with this basic function of drive by wire systems: WOT at the pedal is equal to 50% open at the throttle body followed by a somewhat slow opening to 85%. there is no snap of the throttle with a drive by wire system.
In my professional opinion, your car is slower than advertised. i would look into the basics first I.E. check the way the engine breathes. make sure all paths are clear. run the high test gas, not the cheap crap. if you cant afford the good gas, you shouldnt have bought the car. you can try a reset, and drive it like you stole it. that will not unlock its full potential, but it will at least learn the entire powerband, not just a partial.
hope this helps
Everyone is stuck on launches, VDC, and loads, and the fact that its a 5AT. all of this stuff is a factor. but not the most important ones.
Number 1:
The fact that you live in russia tells me that your intake air charge isnt going to be optimal, prolly not even good. You want a cold, dense charge of air entering your intake. so you want about 25% humidity and about 55-60 degrees. for those of you that think weather cant make that big of a difference, drive your car hard in 80-90 degree weather and then again in 50 degree weather. you will see a 1.5-2.5 sec difference just because of intake air charge.
Number 2:
no 2 engines run the same. so inquiring on others times is irrelevent. It may put you in a ballpark, but nowhere close to anything actual unless you are lucky.
Number 3:
I would look at my fuel trims on a scan tool. You are dealing with an adaptive learning OBDII system. if you arent pushing your car to the limits 75% of the time, you will get what us technicians call "driveability lag". the ECU adapts to your normal or common driving style. the best thing to do is dyno tune the car. i have seen 20hp gains from a stock car just by electronically unlocking your cars full potential. bear in mind also that you are dealing with a "drive by wire" car. so throttle response is electronically controlled instead of cable controlled. this combined with this basic function of drive by wire systems: WOT at the pedal is equal to 50% open at the throttle body followed by a somewhat slow opening to 85%. there is no snap of the throttle with a drive by wire system.
In my professional opinion, your car is slower than advertised. i would look into the basics first I.E. check the way the engine breathes. make sure all paths are clear. run the high test gas, not the cheap crap. if you cant afford the good gas, you shouldnt have bought the car. you can try a reset, and drive it like you stole it. that will not unlock its full potential, but it will at least learn the entire powerband, not just a partial.
hope this helps
#64
02-05-2011, 10:44 PM
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this is when you power brake the car to get your torque converter working, applying torque to the wheels. just before the engine torque overcomes traction, you release the brake for a nice launch
#65
02-06-2011, 04:21 AM
well, i guess ill throw in my 2 cents, as worthless as it may be to most.
Everyone is stuck on launches, VDC, and loads, and the fact that its a 5AT. all of this stuff is a factor. but not the most important ones.
Number 1:
The fact that you live in russia tells me that your intake air charge isnt going to be optimal, prolly not even good. You want a cold, dense charge of air entering your intake. so you want about 25% humidity and about 55-60 degrees. for those of you that think weather cant make that big of a difference, drive your car hard in 80-90 degree weather and then again in 50 degree weather. you will see a 1.5-2.5 sec difference just because of intake air charge.
Number 2:
no 2 engines run the same. so inquiring on others times is irrelevent. It may put you in a ballpark, but nowhere close to anything actual unless you are lucky.
Number 3:
I would look at my fuel trims on a scan tool. You are dealing with an adaptive learning OBDII system. if you arent pushing your car to the limits 75% of the time, you will get what us technicians call "driveability lag". the ECU adapts to your normal or common driving style. the best thing to do is dyno tune the car. i have seen 20hp gains from a stock car just by electronically unlocking your cars full potential. bear in mind also that you are dealing with a "drive by wire" car. so throttle response is electronically controlled instead of cable controlled. this combined with this basic function of drive by wire systems: WOT at the pedal is equal to 50% open at the throttle body followed by a somewhat slow opening to 85%. there is no snap of the throttle with a drive by wire system.
In my professional opinion, your car is slower than advertised. i would look into the basics first I.E. check the way the engine breathes. make sure all paths are clear. run the high test gas, not the cheap crap. if you cant afford the good gas, you shouldnt have bought the car. you can try a reset, and drive it like you stole it. that will not unlock its full potential, but it will at least learn the entire powerband, not just a partial.
hope this helps
Everyone is stuck on launches, VDC, and loads, and the fact that its a 5AT. all of this stuff is a factor. but not the most important ones.
Number 1:
The fact that you live in russia tells me that your intake air charge isnt going to be optimal, prolly not even good. You want a cold, dense charge of air entering your intake. so you want about 25% humidity and about 55-60 degrees. for those of you that think weather cant make that big of a difference, drive your car hard in 80-90 degree weather and then again in 50 degree weather. you will see a 1.5-2.5 sec difference just because of intake air charge.
Number 2:
no 2 engines run the same. so inquiring on others times is irrelevent. It may put you in a ballpark, but nowhere close to anything actual unless you are lucky.
Number 3:
I would look at my fuel trims on a scan tool. You are dealing with an adaptive learning OBDII system. if you arent pushing your car to the limits 75% of the time, you will get what us technicians call "driveability lag". the ECU adapts to your normal or common driving style. the best thing to do is dyno tune the car. i have seen 20hp gains from a stock car just by electronically unlocking your cars full potential. bear in mind also that you are dealing with a "drive by wire" car. so throttle response is electronically controlled instead of cable controlled. this combined with this basic function of drive by wire systems: WOT at the pedal is equal to 50% open at the throttle body followed by a somewhat slow opening to 85%. there is no snap of the throttle with a drive by wire system.
In my professional opinion, your car is slower than advertised. i would look into the basics first I.E. check the way the engine breathes. make sure all paths are clear. run the high test gas, not the cheap crap. if you cant afford the good gas, you shouldnt have bought the car. you can try a reset, and drive it like you stole it. that will not unlock its full potential, but it will at least learn the entire powerband, not just a partial.
hope this helps
the things you mention are pretty interesting, especially about how it learns driver behavior. basically you're saying, push your car to the limits every now and then otherwise it becomes slow?
#66
02-06-2011, 11:58 AM
^These cars have relearning ECU's which adjusts automatically to the way the car is driven, that is why people will always suggest to reset the ECU.
Keeping the brakes engaged while stepping on the gas, it allows you to raise the RPM's for a launch.
Old thread.........
Old thread.........
Last edited by herrschaft; 02-06-2011 at 12:09 PM.
#68
02-06-2011, 12:22 PM
#71
02-06-2011, 01:12 PM
#72
02-06-2011, 01:24 PM
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my professional opinion comes from a 4 year college degree in applied sciences of automotive technology, master ASE certification, and about 10 years experience in the field.
to answer your question, yes, you need to push it to the limits so it doesnt "forget" about the ranges outside of your normal everyday driving. its called adaptive learning computer logic. it doesnt mean that when you go WOT that the car wont respond, it just means that it wont respond like you think it will because it hasnt learned the parameters for that throttle position. it uses the default settings programmed in from the factory, which are set based on a new engine, and not adjusted for engine wear.
#74
02-06-2011, 10:01 PM
my professional opinion comes from a 4 year college degree in applied sciences of automotive technology, master ASE certification, and about 10 years experience in the field.
to answer your question, yes, you need to push it to the limits so it doesnt "forget" about the ranges outside of your normal everyday driving. its called adaptive learning computer logic. it doesnt mean that when you go WOT that the car wont respond, it just means that it wont respond like you think it will because it hasnt learned the parameters for that throttle position. it uses the default settings programmed in from the factory, which are set based on a new engine, and not adjusted for engine wear.
to answer your question, yes, you need to push it to the limits so it doesnt "forget" about the ranges outside of your normal everyday driving. its called adaptive learning computer logic. it doesnt mean that when you go WOT that the car wont respond, it just means that it wont respond like you think it will because it hasnt learned the parameters for that throttle position. it uses the default settings programmed in from the factory, which are set based on a new engine, and not adjusted for engine wear.
#75
02-06-2011, 10:06 PM
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