Drone is not exactly loud. But annoying. It's like an earthquake in your ear. The vibrations are uncomfortable. I've had it on my G35 and my Evo. I found that cracking open or fully opening a window helped.

Possibly due to letting some of the sound waves escape the cabin, rather than accumulating inside?

I don't know, but after all this time with drone, that's what I've noticed.

 

I think how loud it is depends on your exhaust the hks I took off was so loud I couldn't talk to ppl next to me we had to actually yell inside the car

 

My evo has a stripped interior lol. It's so loud, my passengers don't bother talking to me.

It sucks, since it feels like I'm always driving alone even with passengers. I'd love a quiet exhaust.

 

I guess it's more noticeable in 6th gear between 2-3k - maybe I'm weird, but I kind of like it - doesn't bother me at all. I still think I'm still going switch out my exhaust - it wasn't actually my first pick... I'm looking for a more aggressive sound, not so loud you hear it from blocks away, but one that when you pull up next to me - you realize I'm working with something over here...but still keeping the original G distinct sound...that make any sense?

 

Hey people, haven't been around in a while because I was so pissed, that I didn't want to look, talk or think anything G until I got my baby back back. I've been driving my 2001 Ford Ranger that I use as a utiltiy work vehicle... The total disrespect and humility I've had to endure for the past 2 weeks almost broke me... But with my military training, I was able to hold on.. Going to pick up my baby after it being gone 2 long weeks.

It started with me getting tune, and I wanted the tuner to check out the SES light, and making sure the SC was installed properly. Come to find out, my installer skill set wasn't all it was cranked up to be.. This was the first email from the tuner:

Belt squeal. A lot of dust built up on hood liner and engine indicates slippage. belt needs tightened and rechecked.

fuel leak at axillary fuel pump under engine. Have seen these hoses blow off. Fuel leaks can start fire!!

Hole being worn in coupler of throttle pipe by charger pulley due to improper installation of pipes.

Custom bracket from airflow meter housing to body rubbing through a/c line and brake line! DANGEROUS!!

Oil leak on right side of engine needs to be cleaned off and identified/ repaired

These pic came with it..

Attachment 137165

Attachment 137168


After finishing repairing all of the above, they put in on the dyna, and couldn't figure out why I wasn't getting the proper WHPs. Found out the exhaust cam timing system needed to be repaired because of a smashed wire. He called me on that problem, and no way am I going remember the details, but finally he sent this:

Good news, the repairs to the exhaust cam timing system were successful. After repairing the smashed wire and relearning the reference values for the exhaust timing retarder system the car runs normally. The abnormal ignition timing values are no longer needed and the power level is right on target. 365 whp and 305ft lbs of torque. The car has been on two test drives and feels great. We also raised the idle a couple of hundred rpm to help keep the charger quiet. They tend to rattle a little when the idle dips down low. I found the oil leak on the passenger side of engine was coming from behind the cam cover on the front of engine. I re sealed the cover , we will need to keep an eye on to confirm leak was stopped. I have attached a picture of the section of smashed wire.

Attachment 137171

Wish I would have found this guy first, but he appears to know his sh*t. I'll see after picking her up. He documented everything, which I will take back to the original installer which I'm sure he will not have a problem helping me pay for my wheels, and body kit. Lesson learned.

 

Your attachments don't work.

Sucks that your installer did a bad job, but atleast it sounds like your tuner knows his stuff. Nice numbers too. I'm in the process of my build too, hopefully I won't run into problems. Nice numbers too. Let us know how the car feels.

 

Sounds like he knows his stuff. Bet it doesn't come cheap though...

Your attachments don't work.

Dammit Silencer. You stole my post!

 

So uh... wheres the pics?

 

My baby seem to be running alright, but I'm feeling that when cruising at under 3K - I get this jerking sensation as if I'm in the wrong gear - working to see if it's just a driving style that I was use to - and now it's changed - still working on that theory - will get back - what I did notice though is while driving about 45 minutes - stop for gas - filled up, and it acted as if it didn't want to start... I ran into this issue once before, but I'm also going to monitor that - but far as the ride, it's definitely an improvement - working on the attachments - give me a sec..

Thanks

 

Can you see them now?

https://picasaweb.google.com/1128473...978/G35SCpics#

 

Yea they work just kinda hard to see what's what!

 

Damn, definitely a lot of rubbing parts in there.

 

True dat... Not that the original installer hadn't done this work before, it's just he bit off more than he could chew - our cars are most difficult to install a SC because it's real cramp, and you have to line it up right, or it will throw everything off... I'll probably need to replace the belt on the SC sooner because of it being loose, and belt dust everywhere. Even though sh*t like that he should have seen.. They can't touch anything internal in my car anymore, and after I get them to install the wheels, I'm feeling they're done - unless they come up with a helleva deal for body kit and wheels together..

If not, I'm sure the auto-body guy down the street that I've been dealing with for the past 15 yrs on accident related work on all my cars. I'm sure he can paint and install a body kit if I have it sent to him..

My car is still hard to start after I've been driving awhile and stop. It starts right up when cold - have to check with tuner about that... Anybody familar with those symptoms?

 

Good to hear your car is running

what Engine management system are you using? What size injectors are you running?

Warm starts are definitely a known problem with the Utec if that is what you are using - your tuner can help alleviate this by scaling the injectors, however i believe that requires a flash with Osiris...

depending on your EMS and tune - the jerkiness could be the switchover to the aftermarket EMS - when i had the Utec for a couple weeks i noticed similar issues which made me opt for the Haltech instead it is a far superior EMS and makes the car behave like it came form the factory FI

 

They removed unichip and fuel system and replace with a in tank upgraded pump, larger fuel injectors, install uprev osirus software. Injectors are 600cc

Spoke with my guy, and they thought the calibration was nailed down preety good. Until he can look at it, keeping the acceleration pedal pressed a third of the way down when warm starting works. I'm confidence these guys can do the job.

You know you're a respected resource of mine, and your suggestions mean alot since I want my whip to look like yours. Being proactive, and still trying to reach my goal, how do you suggest I should proceed? I would like to get about 415 WHP. I'm one day going to get another car as my DD, but for now this and an old beater that I drive 2-3 days a week, or when the weather is bad is it. I don't want to go too hard especially because of the high mileage, and I'll be replacing other parts soon I'm sure. At this time, I'm only have the Vortech, and Borla exhaust which somewhere in the future, I'll switch out?