I think you should just get a SC and make 350-400whp.

 

I am not planning on supercharging or changing cams to tell you the truth. Too expensive.

 

I'm going to guess that his tank isn't filling up all the way.
OP how many gallons of gas are you putting in when you fill it from empty?

 

I never let it hit empty. As soon as the light goes on I usually place in around 15 gallons. but anyway 110 miles per tank is too little I believe. I once got 290 miles driving slow and breaking slowly and accelerating slowly and that was a full tank. I have never been able to get 290miles again. lol...

 

How about changing the final driver to 3.7 gears after all bolt ons installed and a tune. Would that work any better? How would one change the gears as well, that part I did not understand. Does the tunner change it or is this a part you have to physically purchase and install?

 

^You have to buy the gears and install them in the differential. Its easier to just sway the entire pumpkin with one that has the gears you want. Going with taller gears will improve acceleration a little. If you go with too tall of a gear, you will experience problems (cruise control not working, inaccurate speedometer, ...etc) There are threads in the drivetrain section that have good information about this.

 

He s an auto...I say just go with the transgo shift kit and call it a day. And without SC or turbo or a complete tear down and rebuild with a stroked kit...no way your hitting 300 whp...sorry to burst your bubble...if rev up motor then pretty Damn close if not achievable...with an hr motor I could see it...and I'm talking barely breaking 300...remember crank and wheel is a big diff and the DE motors aren't as efficient as the rev up and hr motors.

 

Okidokie. Thank you. Hopefully I can hit around 330bhp with all the bolt ons and tune. Would that be possible?

 

The best mod is a tuner / scan, data logger hardware. This way any naturally aspirated mod or even a force inducted mod can be maximized properly. A properly "tuned" car means that at any O2 millivolt reading or A/F ratio it's at, its LTFT (long term fuel trim) is at -3 to +3 LTFT and has ZERO Knock Retard. A car that has 3-5 degrees of knock IS NOT TUNED!

In every car club since yrs. ago alot of enthusiast have been "tuning" their own cars. This way you really know what's going on with your car, why it's slow and why it's fast.

Plus dyno is one thing, but 1/4 mile ET and trap speed is VERY IMPORTANT! Every car club enthusiast has their ET times listed in their sig., and not much the WHP, because whp can come at any rpm curve, BUT 1/4 mile ET measures your low end, mid range and top end plus the trap speed.

I don't believe in test pipes or high flow cats, not unless your a super modded turbo car. Naturally aspirated cars will only gain like 5 hp with it by freeing some restriction.

The G35 coupe has 2 cats, one per 3 cylinder. Many domestic car with turbo only has 1 cat converver for all 6 cylinders and they can run 12 to high 11's in the 1/4 mile ET. I have been in a car club with an 8 sec. 1/4 mile turbo car, with a V-6 and NO NITROUS used.

An aggresive cam shaft is the best nat. aspirated mod plus a cold air intake, stronger valve springs to rev higher plus a proper TUNE. This is the next best mod compared to a supercharger then next is the turbo. A stroker kit eng. is so much work and money, you're better off with a supercharger or turbo PLUS a good TUNE.

Tuning the ECU is not as complex as everybody thinks. It's just like operating a PC or windows. Lastly a real enthusiast that mods their car should know the numbers in the data logger when you scan. Don't forget the 1/4 mile ET, 1/8 ET, 60 ft. and trap speed, that tells alot how fast/powerful the car is at any range.

 

330 whp or at the engine? Even with full bolt ons and tune you wont get 330whp.


The art pipes make good torque. I believe 15-20 lb-ft between 0-3,000rpm


You might wanna get rid of your 20's to decrease rotating mass and replace the cold air intake with an 06 stock airbox. They perform better on the DE motor.

 

^330 At the crank
With just bolt-ons, probably not.

 

Hmm... I would have to try and dyno the car to see what comes up to the wheels and what can the tunner pull out of all mods. What might full bolt on and a good tune get me at crank... Hmm.. =)

 

isnt bhp = hp at crank?

 

BHP = Brake Horse Power

 

oic for some reason i thought that meant body horse power