I am a firm believer in driving a car the way your gonna drive it from the first day you get it. I feel that if you baby the thing for1200- 1500 miles the car is going to get broken in of course, but broken into a state where it doesnt want to be abused...and when you do abuse it...then its gonna hurt itself. So The way ive done all my cars is "Drive It Like Ya Stole It" from the first day to the last. That was the car never has any surprises....it always knows whats gonna happen to it. Those are my 2 cents.

"Dont start none, won't be none"

 

I hope you never had kids before. I'd be afraid that just after birth, you be there with a Big Mac and Fries for his/hers first meal. LOL

But I guess if you think your smarter then the engineers with PHD's, then go for it. As for me, I only have a BS in engineering and that's all I need to know that I should follow the manual.

 

FastBlack is right on the money. I simply cannot believe how many ignorant yahoos out there are willing to take ridiculous chances with their engines by beating on them from day one. Well, go right ahead, I'll be the one laughing when I drive by in my baby, seeing you at the shop getting a new engine.

The problem with you people is that you think the car is a living being, that it "expects" certain things, and "gets used" to things. This isn't the case. It's an engine. It's not alive. It doesn't expect anything, it responds to input. Crank on it from day one, and you're going to have a lot of problems down the road because you're going to destroy the rings before they get a chance to seat properly.

2003 G35 Coupe 6MT Leather
Premium, Aero
"There is no spoon"

 

Hi,
I'm a factory Harley Mechanic and former motorcycle roadracer, so beleave me and any other person that tells you to strictly follow the manufactures break-in procedures. It's taken the pepole that designed the engine many hours to find the best way to break in an engine. Think about it, it's there reputation thats on the line, they want (thier) engine to performe its best. I worked with the Porsche R&D enginers and designers on the Harley Revaloution engine, and if the Nissain folks are half as good as these guys I'd follow thier advice to the tee. You can only get BETTER MILAGE, HORSEPOWER, AND LONGEVITY all good things in my book. Patience and common sense will prove best.

 

I saw this in a post a while back in this forum, where someone was describing a break-in procedure they'd read and were going to use. Here it is:

<blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr>

The first 2,000 miles is the single most important period in your car's life. This is what determines if the car is a 90,000 mile car or a 190,000 mile car. Remember this! The break-in period is split into three parts.

1) For the first 1000 miles, don't run the car over 3,500 RPM, and don't depress the gas pedal more than half-way to the floor unless absolutely necessary.
***NOTE***
If you have to get onto the freeway, or you need to pass a slow moving truck, STAND ON IT. But don't make a habit of running the car hard during the first 1000 miles. Also, if your car has cruise control, don't use it during this time. You want to vary the engine speed and load as much as possible.

2) During the second interval, which is only 500 miles, you can slowly start using more and more of the engine's power.

3) The third interval is also 500 miles. During this time, use the car HARDER than you would normally. If you only drive 35MPH in the city, and after 50,000 miles move to Boulder Colorado, the car will be working harder than it ever has before, and will NOT be a happy camper! And by harder, I mean both RPM and load. Cruising along at 55MPH in third gear doesn't count! The best thing you can do is to run it full throttle 0-60, shifting above 5,000 RPM. (It is also a good idea to do this twice a month for as long as you own the car.) This keeps the soot out of the exhaust pipe, cleans the catalytic converter, and evaporates the water that is made there. If you do not do this, the exhaust system will rust from the inside out!

4) After the break-in period, you may return to your normal driving style, and the car will be prepared for any changes it might see down the road.

<hr></blockquote>
Anyone care to comment on this plan? It seems pretty reasonable to me and it seems to make sense. Anyone know if this is a good idea or not?

I'm thinking of doing this, but modifying it a little so that the first section is 1200 instead of only 1000, and then the second section will only be 300. Just a thought though

2003 G35 Coupe
Black, Willow, 6spd, Aero, Prem
On the way...due in April...hurry!! [img]/w3timages/icons/crazy.gif[/img]

 

I broke in my car according to the manual. But ive been reading all over the internet that mechanics have been tryin this new method than taking the motors apart and cheking the rings and pistons....the internals are better in the motor that was driven from day one instead of the one that was pampered and babied. There was visible damage to the babied one.

"Dont start none, won't be none"

 

http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

they tested 2 honda bike motors and took pics of the rings

now that im totally confused.....i think ill take the half-way between both procedures.

Manufacturer suggests keeping under 4000, that guy says to redline, so, i will keep it under 5,000 for the first 1,000 miles, then oil change.....then its over

<font color=green>-Ramb0</font color=green>

 

I have one question about the “Motomorons” pictures. If he used the dyno method for one, then it only has about 1 hour running time on it. Now the one from the manufactures break in method must have over 30+ hours on it. His never has time to get normal build up on it.

I think he has another web page titled:
How To F-Up Your Customers Engines So You Can Make More Money In Repairs!!!!

 

FastBlack, as an engineer myself I am in total agreement on break-in. Best to take it from the guys who designed this car - the manual is the closest thing we have to hearing it straight from the nissan engineers' mouths. Anyone who thinks they can get away with driving it hard from day 1 is just kidding themselves.

 

The motorcycle break in procedure is different b/c they are comparing apples to oranges. http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm. Motorcycles get less engine time and mileage than do cars. I'm no rocket scientist but I'm positive that my G35 engine is not a 4 stroke engine. I followed my manual. Engine building has come a long way, but ragging out your car on day one doesn't make sense. Hey, if you got the cash to buy a new engine or car, go for it.

 

I just like to go against the norm!

"Dont start none, won't be none"

 

I'm no rocket scientist but I'm positive that my G35 engine is not a 4 stroke engine.

Really... RX-7's excluded, what car isn't a 4-stroke? If it's not a 4-stroke, what sort of engine is it?

Modern internal combusion engine: intake, compression, combustion, exhaust -or- suck, squeeze, bang, blow. [img]/w3timages/icons/smile.gif[/img]

Many motorcycles are 2-stroke engines, but a lot of the newer ones are 4-stroke like autos.

2003.5 G35 Sedan Desert Platinum/Graphite Premium/Sport/Aero/Nav/Winter

 

<blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr>

I'm positive that my G35 engine is not a 4 stroke engine.

<hr></blockquote>

I'm glad your not a rocket scientist.
You must have the toro 2-stroker snow blower engine. LOL

 

I'm glad this thread was started. I was not sure how closely to follow the "break-in" procedure, but knew in the back of my mind I should follow it.
I have broken the rules a few times, (but never to the extreme - max RPM has been about 5K) but now my car has 1000+ miles on it and can't wait to take it to 6500RPM at 1201 miles.
Time to take all these punks in their cheap *** cars (that they think are fast) - but can't do it until I can do 6500RPM!

 

From day one....driving moderately at high revs. No redlining but 4-5K shifts now and again was my technique. The only reason I felt comfortable doing this was because I have driven Nissan products for many years and feel confident with our VQDE engines.I do not feel there will be an issue with our G's VQ35DE......................