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Just had the same issue with my 03 coupe! Trying adequ's method! Hopefully it works for me my car was in the Shop all weekend changing the radiator, and I'd rather not put it back in after paying $900 for the job! Ughhh am i regreting not going to school for this ****!!!
I have tried this and it did work and then the problem was back with no heat and the car overheating again. I have been going through fluid like crazy. Why does it work and hen stop wring and why does it work only some of the time?
I did this and it did work but only for a couple of days. Going through antifreeze like crazy and just had the rad changed. Last summer I had no air and when I discovered the rad leaking thought changing it and having it bled by the professionals I would have air and now all i have is cold air. no heat….again. frustrated.
I've bled the system a four or five times and this what I usually do:
1. Drain .
2. Refill with the Lisle spill free funnel.
3. Start the car and rev it up a few times.
4. Check and squeeze the coolant hoses feel the temperature.
5. I do this for about 30-45 minutes
6. After I feel that the coolant is running through the engine.
7. I turn it off put the cap on
8. I then take it out for a nice spin with the heat blowing. It comes out freezing, but shortly after it gets hot. Monitoring the engine temp of course, but have never had a problem with it, since most of the air is trapped into the heater core.
9. Keep extra distilled water or coolant in the car and top off as needed.
I don't mess with the bleeder valve anymore near the firewall after having an OH **** moment when it broke and spilled coolant all over my body, face, and car. Luckily, it was only lukewarm, but I was running around my driveway screaming like a girl for a few minutes.
If you're car keep having problems try getting an engine block test from Autozone. It's like 25 bucks and looks for exhaust fumes in your coolant. If it changes colors then your head gasket most likely is shot.
Putting together G35 Infiniti first time fun so far
No bleeding screw just two clamps
So I need to bleed my coolant system but I don't have the actual bleeding screw I did a engine swap and they used clamps I believe to hold both ends of the value area together so whag do or can I do ?
It's right next to the battery. Not hard to find. Look for the black plastic screw on the silver metal pipe running right next to the batter and engine.
My bleeder screw is located on the passenger side right up against the fire wall you will see a plastic cap with a × on it. That's the cap you will want to unscrew and take your time you DO NOT WANT TO DROP IT. USE THE PROPER SCREW DRIVER DONT TAKE A SHORT CUT AND USE A FLATHEAD TO CRACK IT OPEN YOU WILL STRIP THE PLASTIC CAP AND WONT BE ABLE TO TAKE IT OFF AGAIN. ALSO IF YOU JACK UP THE FRONT END OF YOUR CAR OR PARK IT SO THE FRONT END IS HIGHER THEN THE BACK IT WILL HELP REMOVE THE AIR IN YOUR COOKING SYSTEM. TO CHECK IF YOU DID IT RIGHT AND THERE IS NO AIR START YOUR CAR TURN ON THE HEAT AND FEEL THE HOSES BOTH ONE ON THE BOTTOM OF THE RAD AND ONE ON THE TOP OF THE RAD TOP WILL BE HOT AND BOTTOM WILL BE HOT THEN YOU KNOW ITS DONE RIGHT IF ITS NOT DONE AND STILL HAS SOME AIR IT WILL BE COLD ON THE BOTTOM RAD HOSE YOU CAN HELP THE AIR OUT BY PUSHING THE HOSES AND FORCING THE COOLANT THRU AND AIR OUT, I RECOMMEND using a spill free funnel. And keeping the funnel halfway full.
I kn ow this is very old thread, but I have 2004 G35 sedan suddenly started overheating and ruptured the radiator. I knew it has to be thermostat, so I replaced thermostat and radiator. I kind of did bleeding process, but failed to overheat engine again. Watched some YouTube video, forum suggestions and etc., but the steps you have described I followed exactly and problem solved. I indeed saw many bubbles popped-up from bleeding port while I was bleeding. Heater throw hot air and engine runs properly. Thank @smoovarrowhead you very much.
