Ok so you reset the ecu BEFORE any of the parts were thrown on. What's the reason behind that? I've read on most of these threads (which are sometimes confusing as HELL because of all the BS and retards who don't know anything and just want to throw their bad information in) that they reset the ecu AFTER putting aftermarket parts on.

and why the change from MD spacer to Z1? Just asking.

 

Reason for asking is because I'm about 300 miles shy of 60,000 and am going to change the air filter but if there is some more power (even 3 hp) to be extracted from a tube and filter then why not put them on instead of some Autozone brand crappy filter?

 

I think people exaggerate the ECU thing on here pretty drastically. The ECU knew we meant business with that many runs on the Dyno.

I brought a MD spacer and they had a z1 spacer, they wanted to see what it'd do with the modified non revup lower plenum (mrev2).

We did 7-8 runs 3 pulls each 2 in 4th one in 5th.

 

You reset the ECU so that the onboard computer can freshly learn your new mods. Is it neccessary? No. Your ECU will learn on its own after a few days or so of driving. I do it simply because, why not? It takes about 1 minute.

 

There is a lot of misinformation on here for sure not to mention all dynos are different, humidity, temperature and the people operating the car are all variables that change from each scenario.

This was simply my experience this weekend.

 

Nice. It's great to finally see someone post an actual sheet with specs after their part installation rather than saying, "DON'T BOTHER BUYING AN INTAKE (granted this was just a z tube and drop in filter) YOU N00B. THEY DON'T DO ANYTHING (HEY! YOU GAINED 3 HP!) FOR OUR CARS AND YOU'LL JUST WASTE YOUR MONEY. IF YOU WOULD'VE SEARCHED YOU WOULD'VE KNOWN." (although sadly searching sometimes leads to more confusion...)

 

Very true and I'm sure some people will say that you pulled at a cold temperature and they did their pulls in 150+ degree weather...