When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
iKey is the keyless ignition system. If you have to put your key in the lock cylinder to start the car then you don't have it. It wasn't very common on the 2006-2007 coupe.
This isn't the push button on the dash like the V36 chassis got, the coupe version still has a little **** on the steering column you have to turn to start, but you can keep your keys in your pocket.
iKey is the keyless ignition system. If you have to put your key in the lock cylinder to start the car then you don't have it. It wasn't very common on the 2006-2007 coupe.
This isn't the push button on the dash like the V36 chassis got, the coupe version still has a little **** on the steering column you have to turn to start, but you can keep your keys in your pocket.
Yeah it wasn't even an option in 2005, personally you wouldn't want it anyways. It's finicky, prone to failure, lots of extra parts that are hard to find, and INSANELY expensive to fix when those components do go bad (fob alone is almost $200). The second generation iKey system on the V36 was much better in every way. Very reliable, easy to find parts, and much cheaper.
I believe LUK is the only manufacturer of a DMFW for the VQ so it's the most OEM-like, maybe other companies have started manufacturing them but I'm not aware of any, certainly not aware of any that are inexpensive.
As for who makes the best CLUTCH, I assume you're talking about this as a package of clutch friction disc, pressure plate, and flywheel?? It depends on what you're looking for. At NA power levels you can get by with any stock spec friction disc and pressure plate. The flywheel is where you're going to see the biggest difference though.
DMFW from Exedy will feel the most stock, quiet, sluggish, heavy, it's a 30 lb anchor on the engine. A mid weight single mass flywheel like in the 20-22 lb range will chatter a little, but the engine will rev much quicker due to the removed weight. 1 lb of rotating mass is the equivalent of removing 10 lbs of weight from the chassis. A single mass lightweight flywheel in the 13-15 lb range will definitely have low rpm chatter, but that engine is FREE TO REV.
Personally I have a lightweight, you only hear it when taking off from a stop, once the rpms are up to around 1500 or so you no longer hear it. I don't really have any idle chatter unless you stick your head under the car.
I went with the Z1 Motorsports kit, if I had to chose from the Rockauto options I'd suggest the Exedy NSK1000 which includes the friction disc and pressure plate, and the LUK DMF067 flywheel if you want something that feels like OEM. If you want a midweight or lightweight it's probably about the same price to just get the one from Z1.
One other thing to consider is those dual mass flywheels are VERY VERY EXPENSIVE! And they have moving parts that wear (the springs lose tension over time). That's another thing to consider since you can almost buy the entire Z1 Motorsports kit for the same amount as it costs for JUST the LUK flywheel...
You cannot resurface a dual mass flywheel either. At least you TECHNICALLY cannot... I know a machinist in town that did actually resurface one for me, I tack welded the two pieces together, he put it through his machine, then I removed that weld, then he balanced it. Very unconventional and I doubt you'll find anyone who will do this. Porsche flywheels are insanely expensive though and sometimes you need to think outside the box.
i was talking about the clutch kits that come with the friction disk, pressure plate and the bearing and little copper thing, i wasnt going to get a new flywheel but your response makes me feel like i should lol ....the z1 kit is like 460?
How come you would go with the exedy kit? Wouldn't I want to get like an all LUK set if I was gonna use the LUK flywheel?
Originally Posted by cleric670
Exedy wasn't the OEM.
I believe LUK is the only manufacturer of a DMFW for the VQ so it's the most OEM-like, maybe other companies have started manufacturing them but I'm not aware of any, certainly not aware of any that are inexpensive.
As for who makes the best CLUTCH, I assume you're talking about this as a package of clutch friction disc, pressure plate, and flywheel?? It depends on what you're looking for. At NA power levels you can get by with any stock spec friction disc and pressure plate. The flywheel is where you're going to see the biggest difference though.
DMFW from Exedy will feel the most stock, quiet, sluggish, heavy, it's a 30 lb anchor on the engine. A mid weight single mass flywheel like in the 20-22 lb range will chatter a little, but the engine will rev much quicker due to the removed weight. 1 lb of rotating mass is the equivalent of removing 10 lbs of weight from the chassis. A single mass lightweight flywheel in the 13-15 lb range will definitely have low rpm chatter, but that engine is FREE TO REV.
Personally I have a lightweight, you only hear it when taking off from a stop, once the rpms are up to around 1500 or so you no longer hear it. I don't really have any idle chatter unless you stick your head under the car.
I went with the Z1 Motorsports kit, if I had to chose from the Rockauto options I'd suggest the Exedy NSK1000 which includes the friction disc and pressure plate, and the LUK DMF067 flywheel if you want something that feels like OEM. If you want a midweight or lightweight it's probably about the same price to just get the one from Z1.
One other thing to consider is those dual mass flywheels are VERY VERY EXPENSIVE! And they have moving parts that wear (the springs lose tension over time). That's another thing to consider since you can almost buy the entire Z1 Motorsports kit for the same amount as it costs for JUST the LUK flywheel...
You cannot resurface a dual mass flywheel either. At least you TECHNICALLY cannot... I know a machinist in town that did actually resurface one for me, I tack welded the two pieces together, he put it through his machine, then I removed that weld, then he balanced it. Very unconventional and I doubt you'll find anyone who will do this. Porsche flywheels are insanely expensive though and sometimes you need to think outside the box.
You can mix/match flywheel/clutch, it's all the same bolt pattern and same overall dimensions/spec. I was just looking at the cost effective options and the LUK friction disc was quite a bit more expensive.
One thing to be aware of though, you'll find a lot of cheap eBay kits for things like "stage 2" or "stage 3" clutch kits for these cars, stay FAR AWAY from them. They will include a much stiffer pressure plate that's not fun for a daily driver, makes the pedal VERY stiff.
Another thing I forgot to mention about lightweight flywheels, ever accidentally popped the clutch and stalled the engine? It's a lot easier to do with a lightweight since you are removing a pretty significant amount of inertial mass from the rotating engine. If you don't have a problem accidentally stalling then it also won't be an issue with a lightweight flywheel. A dual mass flywheel being much heavier as well as having the extra weight on a spring attached inner section makes it significantly hard to stall the engine. One of those performance vs luxury things.
Also, the clutch friction disc comes in both a sprung and unsprung version. You want a sprung hub unless this is a dedicated track car. You can easily tell by looking at them because there will be 4-6 large springs around the friction disc inner hub.
Hi everyone I just joined the forums was wondering if anyone can help me with my car issue… i was driving at roughly 100+ mph when suddenly my car shut off. I lost all power steering and no response to the throttle I then pulled over and completely shut off the car. I started it back up and ran perfectly fine no cel and drove smooth. I tested it out again so I did a lil pull from 3rd to 4th hitting about 6k rpm and sure enough the car shut off again. I already replaced the maf and reset the ecu and still
no codes I’m thinking it’s a fuel issue? Any help or advice would be appreciated thank you.
My neutral position sensor gives a CEL code. does that mean it is dead and needs replacement ? I asked a mechanic and they said have to lower the transmission to change the sensor.
6MT it's a sensor screwed into the side of the transmission, one side is the reverse switch, other side is the PNP switch.
You definitely don't have to drop the tranny on the 6MT, but if it's on the side with the stupid "weight plate" hamonics thing bolted to the side (left / driver side) then it's a real pain to take off, strongly recommend removing the weight plate and throwing it in the dumpster. If it's the one on the right / passenger side it's wide open and very accessible.
It's in the FSM section MT - Manual Transmission though, it's called something like "back up lamp and neutral position switches". If you need help just reply and I'll dig it up.
Also, those bolts holding the weight plate do not need to be reinstalled. They have a bottom, it doesn't just open up into the transmission body if you remove them.
6MT it's a sensor screwed into the side of the transmission, one side is the reverse switch, other side is the PNP switch.
You definitely don't have to drop the tranny on the 6MT, but if it's on the side with the stupid "weight plate" hamonics thing bolted to the side (left / driver side) then it's a real pain to take off, strongly recommend removing the weight plate and throwing it in the dumpster. If it's the one on the right / passenger side it's wide open and very accessible.
It's in the FSM section MT - Manual Transmission though, it's called something like "back up lamp and neutral position switches". If you need help just reply and I'll dig it up.
in my van the harmonics damper on the rear diff solved the driveline vibration issues ford was having for 5 years with the only solution being replace driveshaft every 60k miles. The fix is the weight lol.
I wonder what difference it makes on the G’s. Probably minor.
I think it's just noise from the transmission. I've never seen any issues from removing them, you can tell which 6MT cars have had their transmission out because no one puts that weight back on it lol. It makes unplugging the sensor on that side EXTREMELY difficult when it's left on the transmission.
The odd thing is it's literally just a block of METAL, there's no rubber on it that I'm aware of.
