My radiator is centered on original support location. I did carve out for that ac condenser. Pic is not perfect angle. Still between 1-2 inches clearance between fan shroud and motor accessories, depending on where you measure......seems like plenty space without slimline fans.

I did make my lower radiator hose from 1 1/2 in copper....fits great. I'll post pic later...can't from phone.

OK here is my pic of the lower radiator hose solution.....
fits great....I kept the first 6-8 inches of the Camaro hose helps with easy alignment and vibration absorbing.

I did buy T-Bolt clamps from Summit....work great but I do need 3 more of the larger size to finish clamping up the ends..... so I am waiting for those to get delivered this week.

08 Corvette hose works great for the upper hose....trimmed each end ~1/2 inch

Still tugging along!

What's that FRAM doing in a G?

I know.....the cheapo filter is what I had lying around when I was deciding packaging and location.....I'll swap it out before I fire it up

I really wouldn't recommend the FRAM on such a nice motor. So much custom work going into this, keep it up.

PS. How are your sons tagging along? My father and I are installing one of those garage 2 post lifts right now and its tough.

Hey, any updates progress lately?

agreed. Just found this. I will be doing an LS3 as well. I talked to stug35 a while back about his set up. REALLY interested to see how you do the dash with the blutooh tablet.

Speedhut sells a set of 6 matching gauges (tach, speed, fuel, oil press, water temp, and volts) for like 600 bucks that's the route im going (4 in dash + 2 in pillar), it might save you money. But if you havent bought anything for the swap yet, to be honest thats the least of your $$ worries

I'd be concerned about using this for a radiator connection due to the lack of flexibility in the hard material used for the pipe. Also, I wonder if there might be any reaction with that piping material and antifreeze? Are you using hose-clamps over the ends to keep the rubber clasped around the hard part of the piping, that way it doesn't fall out once the rubber portion heats up? What's the pipe made of.... copper?

It might be wise to use a tail pipe extender at the end of those pipes to widen the ends to avoid the rubber portion from slipping (man that whole sentence sounded weird). But im serious

Been a while since an update.
I am getting close to my first test fire.
I am down to my drive shaft and wire harness. Hoping to have my Drive shaft by the end of the week……Big TBD on the harness.

I have recently finished up some of the last bits. I put in a fuel return circuit and a WIX fuel filter / pressure regulator. I went with -6AN braided line with -6AN to Quick Connect fittings to connect to the Fuel Rail, The WIX Pressure Regulator and the Fuel Pump / Bucket assembly.

The Fuel Bucket assembly needed a pressure regulator bypass to be installed. I went with the kit from CJ-motorsports “ CJM Return Fuel Correction Kit”. This kit claims that it solves the problem with fuel return and the venturi to avoid the problem of accessing the driver side of the saddle fuel tank. The kit instructions and the installation went extremely smooth. From a fit and build quality the parts seem great. The instructions called for drilling out the small venture to 0.080” to 0.100” to ensure good draw / flow which I did.
Next I pulled out the Fuel line and cut the hangers to allow room for the braided line. Braided line route is up through the wheel well, into the false fire well then into the engine bay. I mounted the Pressure regulator in the underbody rail cavity…..Maybe I will fab up a sheet metal mud deflector….any thoughts on this spot for the pressure regulator? Seems like a lot of the hot rod guys are going with similar location. I do see a lot of people putting the Regulator in the engine bay, but they are usually not the WIX corvette type regulator. Hardest part was snaking and pulling the braided line up the front side of the fuel tank to the top of the fuel bucket (VERY tight fit for 2 -6AN braided lines to fit. I used some line clamps and swapped out the screw and nut for a stainless sheet metal screw to directly mount the braided line to the floorpan sheet metal. I did rotate the fuel rail 180 degrees so the feed line is facing the passenger side rather than the driver side.

Some pics of the Fuel bucket work

Venturi
Drill bit used to open it up
My Helper
Fuel rail flipped and quick connect

I dropped the cross car member and the tunnel support, wire brushed, rust converter and Undercoat painted….look much better and should be protected for future miles.

I have re-adjusted the motor position more than a few times with the mounts as the driver side header was too close (touching) to the outer rail and the steering column. My current attempt has gotten about 1/8” clearance….I’d like to get another 1/8” but I am going to start where I am because I am pleased with the alignment of the Centerline of the Main Crank bolt, Output shaft and the rear diff.

I do see that I have impingement of the Power steering hard line to the oil pan at the center of the rack. I will drop the rack and gently bend the tube to get clearance. In talking with FR it sounds like there is a LOT of variation in these lines, year to year, model to model. Pay some extra attention here during the motor install and you can avoid having to do a modification with all the stuff in the way.

For the intake I purchased the K&N Typhoon series 69 intake kit designed for the 2011 Camaro SS.
I had to do a couple modifications to get it to fit.
The one that made me the most nervous was cut to the tube.

I cut a small 3/8” wedge from the J mating face to allow the tube to angle towards the fire wall to clear the radiator. I did some relatively major cut up of the sheet metal that forms the CAI box. I ended up with a good, albeit snug, fit for the air filter. I think as I finish this up I feel like I will get some good “Rammed” cool air in from the front to the upper inside of the wheel well…..I plan to work on that more after I get my initial start-up and decide on a new bumper cover. I like the Karuma Z bumper cover, but I’m trying to stay focused on things that make the car STOP, GO and TURN. This sure seems like a MUCH easier way to go, rather than fabricating a custom intake tube…..Nice part is this has a very stable fitting for the MAF sensor and is at a confirmed distance from the Manifold. Only improvement I would think that a 10-20 degree bend down at the very end might give a better final position to the filter itself.

I have found an experienced local driveshaft company and they are recommending a driveshaft with CV joints at each end. This may help with some of the problems that people are experiencing with the TR6060 flange mount drive shafts. Hoping to have my driveshaft by the end of the week. Updates to follow.