Its always nice seeing threads like this. Great work so far!!

 

Well I’ve made a little progress. I’ve had a bunch of delays due to business travel, waiting on parts and the general mayhem surrounding the Christmas holidays when you have 4 kids.

My 3 recent additions have been the transmission mount, Plumbing for the steering, oil cooler & oil filter relocation kit, and a failed attempt at replacing the steering column u-joint….more on that later.

I did end up finding out that I have done the first LS3 TR6060 with the Fueled racing kit. FR had developed a trans mount, but had used a special Tremec that has a different tailpiece from the stock Camaro tailpiece. So the original did not have the correct mounting. I ended up making a mock up from wood based on the original FR design. From that mock up Todd sent me a metal prototype, which need some further adjustments. Last week I received the finished trans mount and everything fits nice. So now I am set to start taking measurements for a drive shaft.

The Fueled racing kit came with a plumbing kit for the power steering. Relatively straight forward. After removing the lines and fittings from the Nissan rack I threaded in the 2 fittings provided by Fueled Racing directly into the rack….NPT into the rack and AN style on the other side. There was another MPT to AN fitting that threaded into the power steering pump on the pressure side. A custom line was provided for the high pressure side and fit up very nice. On the return side a couple angled fittings were provided that allow the hose to be routed from the back of the rack to the return side of the power steering pump…..I will be putting a power steering fluid cooler. Not sure if I will get a new one or modify the original Nissan cooler….any comments or advise?

So that went pretty ok so I got into the oil cooler and oil filter relocation. The FR (Fueled Racing) instructions called for the oil filter mount to be attached to the main rail in front of the alternator…..after fiddling around a bunch I decided to attach to a bracket off the main rail where the k-member goes across…BEHIND the alternator. Seems like a great spot….hope I don’t regret putting it here later on in the build…I don’t think I’m missing anything. I drilled 2 holes and used the provided self drilling/tapping screws…they did needed to be trimmed to avoid interfering with the bolts. Sits in a good spot for oil changes…..don’t worry I will not be using Fram filter for more that the initial startup and oil inspection.

When I started lining up the fittings and the line I noticed that the Steering Rack hard lines were in the way. I ended up "tweeking" them with a 1" wood dowel rod to make clearance....before and after pictures attached.

 

FR provided plenty of braided line and AN fittings for the oil cooler made by B&M. This was my first time using AN fittings and braided line so I had to do a little experimenting to get a clean cut on the braided line. I tried a couple different cutters. Maybe I was not using them right, but I always seemed to get a non-square cut, with the end all pinched with frayed metal wires on the ends of the braided line. I ended up going super low tech and used my angle grinder with a cutoff wheel on….it makes stinky rubber smoke, but the end is square and clean (if you use this method you do need to clean out the inside of the tube well, as a bunch of the cutting debris ends up in the tube.) Disassemble the fitting needed. Press the hose end in the fitting. I found it easiest to get most of the wire in on one side then work my thumbnail around the outside edge to tuck in all the wires. Press the hose all the way in to the shoulder stop. I put this part in my vise. Next I put some oil on the barb end of the fitting and pressed it into the tube and then tightened. All these fittings are black anodized aluminum ad it scratches pretty easy. If looks are really important to you I would recommend wrapping you wrench ends with athletic tape to try to keep the marring to a minimum. I ran the first line from the OUT on the oil pan to the IN on the Oil filter mount. NPT to AN fittings to the oil filter mount using Teflon tape….same for the fitting into the cooler itself.

I ended up making 2 different mounts for the cooler. My first attempt was with the fittings facing the driverside all the way to the top of the radiator opening. After finishing it I realized that the fittings ended up too tight to some features and would have needed to order some additional straight fittings. I decided to scrap it and put it on the driverside but with the fittings in vertical orientation. This allowed me to use the 90 degree fittings I already had and I was also able to run the 2 lines side by side which worked out better for packaging. I mounted one side of the bracket using one of the 4 main bolts that attach the composite radiator structure to the main rail. The other side I used self tapping screw/bolts that I had left over from a garage door installation project. I used those same self tappers to attach the cooler to the bracket as well. I opened 2 oblong holes in the graphite radiator structure using my dremel…If you do this make sure that the holes are large enough for the AN fittings to pass through…..better for when you need to take off the front clip. So I like how this looks, but I’m interested if anyone has comments or advise. Is this a good/bad spot, layout, attachment scheme, etc ??

Ok now I get to share a bit of my stupidity. So when I pulled off the steering column from the steering rack the original U-joint was all rusted and nearly fused to the column and rack. After finally getting it off I knew it needed to be replaced. I found a replacement on e-bay for $30…not too bad considering a new one from OEM is over $100. The splines on the shaft and rack were still pretty rusty so I cleaned them with a wire brush and some rust remover. I was not able to get it completely clean nor smooth. When I went to put on the new u-joint on I had a bugger of a time. It just did not want to slide on far enough. So after even going so far as to lower the rack and beam to get some extra clearance and a bunch of man-handling I noticed that the u-joint went from feeling smooth in operation to lumpy….like it got damaged. So I put it in anyway so I could continue with my build…..and I ordered a new one. The new one shows up, but now to get to that spot, I had to remove the front clip and the power steering pump. This time I try the U-joint and it moves nice and smooth. To try to make it fit on easier I gently pry open the jaws a bit to allow it to slide on the column easier, as soon as I did that it had that lumpy “broken” feel to it. Are these things that sensitive? What am I doing wrong? Is there a better aftermarket part anyone has used….I’m a bit frustrated that I have now effectively ruined 2 u-joints and I still don’t think I can get one on without breaking it. Advise?

 

pics

 

great progress.
Why did you decide to add an oil cooler?

 

I figured I want to get a long life from this motor and now its relatively easy to add with every thing apart....maybe a $200 max cost for a bit of extra protection.... especially since I'm sure I'll be taking it to all the track days I can afford.

 

I predict that small bolt holding the engine mount to the frame will explode the second you punch it. you dont gotta be a machinist to predict that (But i am) lol

 

This is right up my alley.... Nice work so far I'm thinking of doing this ....but I just built my engine with internals lol. Guess ill, have to sell my whole set up with supercharger ....this ls3 build. Hs me excited

 

If your talking about the motor mount bolt, your wrong. I have the SIKKY kit and its only one large bolt too on each side. Same as the VQ's.

 

Long time since an update.
Progress was a bit slow due to business travel and bits and pieces coming in slowly. I did finally get a “NEW” lower steering column U-Joint installed without ruining it. I can’t even say what I did differently, other than be real careful with it, but it was still a bugger to slide up the upper shaft and then down onto the rack.

Next I recycled the original power steering cooler and mounted it above the oil cooler. I modified re-used the original mount brackets. I needed to tweek the barb fittings to about a 15 degree angle to allow the hoses clearance. I made additional clearance through the front structural member for the hoses alongside the oil cooler lines.

Next was the transmission cooler. I originally purchased a standard B&M cooler with integrated barb fittings and planned to keep the original hardlines from the transmission and connect with simple hoses. After getting everything lined up I realized that the stock Camaro return line runs down the passenger side of the transmission then loops BELOW the transmission to enter the transmission on the driver side. The return line ends up being the lowest part under the car…..BAD IDEA. So I decided to go with braided lines a different B&M cooler and Fragola fittings. (If anyone is interested in the original cooler kit please PM me I’ll make you a great deal B&M 70255). After looking through Summit I found Fragola fittings -6AN to 1/4 NPS labelled as “Transmission” fittings. Turns out they DO NOT FIT and are slightly undersized. I very nearly stripped out my transmission ….. ugh that would have sucked. I ended up taking my original quick disconnect fittings to a heavy equipment company near me that is a Parker distributor. I can dig up the Parker number if someone wants it. It is a -6AN to ###….perfect fit with o-ring and everything…..2 fittings $6.11 total…whew. I routed the lines between the block and the header pipes. I modified a couple of old brackets with rubber mounts. One I tapped into the AC Compressor bracket and one is at the bottom corner of the structural front cross member. I can take additional pics if anyone is interested. Mounted the transmission cooler center passenger side directly to the structural cross member.

 

While the front clip was off I put the AC compressor, Power Steering Pump, and the Alternator back on as well as the AC belt and the Serpentine belt. Re-installed plugs and coil packs.

Next was the Mishmoto Radiator saga. I had heard from a few on the forum here that Mishimoto was a good choice for a new radiator and a direct drop in. HAH….not in my case. It started with the fan shroud not lining up. Mount posts off by ½” so I had to modify the holes to match. The bottom post legs did not fit in the mounts either…needed to be trimmed with a file and grinder (on the fan housing not the radiator). Next the AC condenser mounts did not fit due to the welds and brackets being off as well. Spent about 3 hours customizing some brackets to get the condenser on the radiator. That lead to some packaging issues getting the entire assembly to line up and fit into the structural cross member. I ended up spending 6-8 hours trimming and fitting the assembly together. I did end up getting it all to fit, but it was NOT a drop in. I was either sent the wrong Radiatior OR I just got one with the mount Jig messed up, because I have heard lots of good stuff about Mishimoto. So long as it does the job cooling my car I guess the rest is no big deal in the end.

With the font clip back on next is the radiator hoses. I took some advise from Jeff at Jordan Innovations and decided to try Aluminum tubing. I bought some Mandrel bent tubing and silicone reducers from siliconeintakes.com. I have mocked up the lower assembly and getting a friend to weld it this week. I will use the first 45 degree bend from the original Camaro lower hose (this will help absorb any flex and misalignments). I am going to try StusG35 recommendation to use a 2008 Corvette upper radiator hose. The first attempt today at welding was a fail....hope to try again tomorrow. Updates to come when I get the radiator hoses in place.

 

Awesome work man.

 

this swap makes me so jealous

 

The fans shrouds end closer to the block than I expected wtih the FR kit.

I got a 53mm koyo to keep the temps down once I do the swap, and Im afraid that I might need slim fans instead of being able to re-use the oem shroud, now that I see your setup. However, from the pics that I have seen, it seems that the koyo starts further in the radiator support than thow your mishimoto is installed, so even though it's thicker it might end around the same spot.

Did you modify the bracket and ended up with the mishimoto a lil further back than the original mouting position? Or is the mishimoto pretty close to hitting that center support bar that would stop it from going any forward.

 

Just do what I did. I carved out the entire inside of the radiator support. It sat the dual core mishimoto radiator and fan shroud an inch deeper and gave me ample room for accessory drive and hoses. It a pain in the ***, but it worked for me. Looks clean too.