I just recently got an alignment done but i have no idea if its good or not. The guy just told me it was off and didnt explain anything to me. I was wondering if the results are good or not? Also, it says 17 inch wheels so not sure if they were lazy and just put a random number there or does it affect it? thanks for the help.

 

It looks like you're lowered about an inch if sedan or 1/2" if coupe, you should look into an adjustable camber kit for the front/rear and also toe bolts for the rear.

As far as the actual numbers, I'm glad they pushed front toe out to the higher end of the "recommended" spec, there is a Nissan TSB that says front toe should actually be set at 0.08 so they got that pretty close, there is no camber/caster adjustment in the front with the OEM FUCA so it is what it is.

They adjusted the rear for matching camber, personally I would have gone for matching toe but w/e, they probably just maxed out the camber bolt and then dialed in matching numbers with the toe bolt. You will have some camber wear which is fine, toe wear is what kills tires and your alignment looks pretty good. I don't know why they input 17" wheels into their machine, it does make a difference but only for what the nominal adjustment range should be, I don't think there is a difference between 17 and 18" wheels, 19" wheels there is a different nominal range, either way it wouldn't matter since most of your components are either non-adjustable or adjusted to the maximum the stock setup allows.

For OEM parts on a lowered vehicle they did a pretty good job, you should definitely look into adjustable front upper control arms, rear adjustable camber arms, rear SPC toe bolts. You can usually buy them all in a kit for a little bit of a discount, I think it was.... $550 for the Z1 kit I went with.

 

Sounds about right ^^^.

The Z1 front uppers allow you to also adjust caster and get you in range of OEM specifications. It's actually cheaper too than the Kinetix Arms and offers the same adjustability.

Kinetix rear camber Arms on a budget and SPC if you want the race grade adjusters. SPC bolts for rear toe regardless.

 

Also, all those components are EASILY replaced in your driveway, the FUCA is 100% simple to replace. The rear camber, forward link are only slightly more difficult, the trick is how to lower the spring bucket, use your service jack on the inside eccentric bolt to support the spring bucket for removal/installation. The toe bolts pretty much requires a dremel tool with a right angle attachment unless you remove the muffler.

You should be able to look up youtube video's of it all, when I did mine I was shocked at how easily it came off and went together, spray everything with PB blaster a week before you plan on disassembling everything, the only "tough spot" is installing the new forward link on the chassis since there's a pinch welded piece of metal in the way. There are folks who use a cutoff wheel and trim the metal then paint it with undercarriage paint but I just took a pair of channel locks and bent the flange out about 1/8" and the link fit with zero issue, it's all covered in corrosion resistant coating so you can't even tell it's bent.

I think the only tools required were a 14, 17, 19 mm (sometimes an 18mm if the new arms use 18mm ball joint nuts) a torque wrench, breaker bar, service jack and two jackstands, dremel for the toe bolts but if you were incredibly patient and had a few extra hours to burn you could use a rat tail file if you don't have access to a rotary tool... make sure to only draw the file in the cutting direction because that much filing you WILL dull the file pulling the wrong way.