Car stalled out at 3K RPM, cranks but won’t start
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Car stalled out at 3K RPM, cranks but won’t start
Got an 05 g35 REVUP 6MT. Just finished a clutch and flywheel r&r yesterday, drove for a bit and everything seemed fine. Got up this morning and went for a cruise to put in some miles on the break-in period. Got about 25 miles down the road and the car stalls out in 4th gear at 3k rpm. Felt a bog for a second (same feeling as when my cam sensors were bad) and the car died. Some backstory: I also got a new slave, master, and clutch line so when I was bleeding that I spilt a lot of brake fluid on my crank sensor. I Pulled off, checked connections and hoses, everything looks good. Walked to an oreilleys and bought a crank sensor they had in stock for like $50. Walked back, installed on the side of the road, same thing. Car would crank but would not start. Put the old crank sensor in, tried, no luck. Also scanned the car and seems to be there are no codes stored. Check engine light is illuminated when key is on but I believe it always does that. Anyways, I ordered an OEM crank sensor overnighted, should be here in the morning because I know these cars do not like aftermarket cam and crank sensors. Tomorrow I’m gonna install the crank sensor and also take a multimeter to the harness. Anybody have any suggestions? If this crank sensor don’t fix the problem I’m clueless.
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Join Date: May 2017
Location: Washington State
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Coupe 6MT Premium RAS
There's steps in the FSM section DI - Driver Information on how to test the resistance from the fuel sender to make sure it's sending the correct signal.
It's about 50/50 on whether the fuel pump sender failed or the instrument cluster failed.
It's really easy to test the fuel sender though, start with a full tank of gas, read resistance on pins 2 and 5 of the harness, run it down to about 1/2 tank, measure resistance again, run it down emptier, test it again. If the sender is giving the wrong resistance then it needs to be cleaned or replaced.
Mine has been screwed up for several years, I just go off the odometer. It will read correctly for about 5 minutes then switch to displaying 1/2 tank.
https://www.nicoclub.com/infiniti-service-manuals
It's about 50/50 on whether the fuel pump sender failed or the instrument cluster failed.
It's really easy to test the fuel sender though, start with a full tank of gas, read resistance on pins 2 and 5 of the harness, run it down to about 1/2 tank, measure resistance again, run it down emptier, test it again. If the sender is giving the wrong resistance then it needs to be cleaned or replaced.
Mine has been screwed up for several years, I just go off the odometer. It will read correctly for about 5 minutes then switch to displaying 1/2 tank.
https://www.nicoclub.com/infiniti-service-manuals
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