Recently traded my turbo miata for a clapped *** g35 coupe 6mt and idk why. thing runs great but ran into a "minor" problem. The driver side window is currently down and i have no way to put it up. window switches & door locks on both sides do nothing. Radio works, everything else works as it should. Driver side speaker doesnt work i dont know if related but.... passenger side speaker works as well as the light on the door. Key fob doesnt unlock or lock the doors either. Anyone ran into anything like this? need help asap please. dont know if related but door was replaced for one that was the same color as the car, previous owner said door locks nd everything worked before the door was swapped out.

 

Start by checking fuses, Fuse Block - J/B (cabin fuse block) fuses 1 and 18, both are 10amp fuses. I would suspect fuse 18 since it powers both the locks and windows.

If those fuses are good backprobe the BCM pin 54 white wire to see if it has power, that's the wire that goes to the door switch.







If that's not it then unplug the window motor, put your multimeter probes into the harness. Move the window switch up/down and see if there is voltage, it should be +12vdc or -12vdc (polarity swaps) when you press the window button up/down.

If there is no voltage put your key in the driver door lock and hold it in the locked and unlocked position to roll the windows up/down with the key.

If there's still no voltage then backprobe the door switch wire harness to see if it's got power on pin 1 white wire (which is the other end of BCM pin 54).





That will get you started.

 

 

Really starting to lean towards a broken wire in the loom somewhere in the door. Im getting the old door back in a few days *hopefully* will put that one on and pray to the lord it fixes it. If the BCM was bad would i still have lights and everything? The door light on passenger side works and id assume none of that would work with the BCM messed up right?

 

Different circuit, not handled by the BCM. It's not uncommon for the wires in the door flexible loom section to break, replacing the door isn't going to change much since it's probably still using the same wire harness yeah?

I would definitely start by just following those steps I listed, if you don't have a back wire probe you can make one with a paperclip.

 

Checked fuses 1 & 18, both are good, took door panel off nothing looked odd other than the hanging courtesy light wire bc it has aftermarket door cards. Dont have a multimeter on me atm so 😓

 

Next step is to disconnect the battery, disconnect the door harness where it meets the main harness in the cabin, then disconnect all the harnesses in the door and ring them out for continuity. You can just go color for color, put the DMM on ohms, put the probe on the wire in the main harness, then probe the same color wire at the inside of the door harness. Start with the switch/button harness but verify that EVERY wire is continuous.

You could very well just have a broken wire in that door harness since it apparently functioned fine with the old door (and old door harness).