Heater Blows Cool Air!! Heeelp!!
#1
10-12-2005, 09:26 AM
Heater Blows Cool Air!! Heeelp!!
Hey guys,
As the weather started to get colder I found myself having to use my heater for the first time this season. Well went to turn it on Saturday evening and poof...cold air....ok so let me drive around so the car can warm up. Well about 15 min. later (the temp gauge was in the middle between C and H), the heater was still blowing cool air....
I pulled into a lot and noticed when I revved past 1500 RPM the air would warm up (hotter air would come into the cabin). However under idle or at a light...it would cool back down and blow the same damn air. So i put it on full blast on 90....same old cold air and when I'd rev to 1500+...HOT air.
The only things I have modded recently is my dash, I took apart my dash to complete the Digital Wheelz screen and a DVD player in the upper glove box. I also noticed my coolant level (checked while the engine was warm) in the overflow tank was empty. I figured this might be my first bet, so I filled her up to MAX and warm air began blowing. Again this morning I noticed the same problem and after checking coolant level it was still at MAX. Is it possible since the level originally was empty that I could have introduced some AIR into the system (hence why its not warm air coming in)?? When I swapped my radiator hoses for my SAMCO hoses last year, I had to bleed the cooling system since your introducing air into the system and was having the same problem with the heat. I am just asking b/c I wanted to know if anything I may have taken off or removed on purpose or on accident behind the dash that could cause this problem?? Or should I aim straight for the engine bay?!?! HEELLP!! Want to try and avoid the stealership for now, but that will be my last resort. I have an 04 5AT G35c.
As the weather started to get colder I found myself having to use my heater for the first time this season. Well went to turn it on Saturday evening and poof...cold air....ok so let me drive around so the car can warm up. Well about 15 min. later (the temp gauge was in the middle between C and H), the heater was still blowing cool air....
I pulled into a lot and noticed when I revved past 1500 RPM the air would warm up (hotter air would come into the cabin). However under idle or at a light...it would cool back down and blow the same damn air. So i put it on full blast on 90....same old cold air and when I'd rev to 1500+...HOT air.
The only things I have modded recently is my dash, I took apart my dash to complete the Digital Wheelz screen and a DVD player in the upper glove box. I also noticed my coolant level (checked while the engine was warm) in the overflow tank was empty. I figured this might be my first bet, so I filled her up to MAX and warm air began blowing. Again this morning I noticed the same problem and after checking coolant level it was still at MAX. Is it possible since the level originally was empty that I could have introduced some AIR into the system (hence why its not warm air coming in)?? When I swapped my radiator hoses for my SAMCO hoses last year, I had to bleed the cooling system since your introducing air into the system and was having the same problem with the heat. I am just asking b/c I wanted to know if anything I may have taken off or removed on purpose or on accident behind the dash that could cause this problem?? Or should I aim straight for the engine bay?!?! HEELLP!! Want to try and avoid the stealership for now, but that will be my last resort. I have an 04 5AT G35c.
#2
10-12-2005, 09:31 AM
sounds like u might have a thermostat problem. i remember my dad having a similar problem many years ago on his lincoln. middle of winter... snow on the ground... and the car would blow cool air for most of the time. went to the dealer and i believe they replaced his thermostat.... car was back to normal right after that.
#3
10-12-2005, 09:41 AM
#4
10-12-2005, 09:53 AM
#5
10-12-2005, 09:59 AM
I remember reading a while back (been intending to search for the thread) where a guy managed to stop the hot air from blowing into the footwell when the A/C was off. Seems like he had to fill a bunch of holes in the ducting to seal it from the engine bay. Maybe this is the same sort of thing?
FWIW, I do notice that my A/C simply does blow very cool while at idle. As soon as I start to go, out comes the frigid air again. I would assume that the heat would behave the same way.
I am interested is stopping the flow of hot air into the footwwells. I like to run without the A/C and the windows down, but airflow simply doesn't make it to the footwells very easily. When you combine that with the hot air flowing into the footwells from the A/C (while turned off), the G is a real foot-roaster.
FWIW, I do notice that my A/C simply does blow very cool while at idle. As soon as I start to go, out comes the frigid air again. I would assume that the heat would behave the same way.
I am interested is stopping the flow of hot air into the footwwells. I like to run without the A/C and the windows down, but airflow simply doesn't make it to the footwells very easily. When you combine that with the hot air flowing into the footwells from the A/C (while turned off), the G is a real foot-roaster.
#6
10-12-2005, 10:40 AM
#7
10-12-2005, 12:45 PM
pd.. i got this article from canadiandriver. it might help u out:
Heating problems in winter
by Jim Kerr
Cold weather brings out many problems in a vehicle that would normally not occur or could be overlooked in a warmer climate. One of the more common problems many drivers have is not enough heat in their vehicle.
Checking the thermostat is usually the first step in repairing a vehicle with a lack of heat. Even if the thermostat has just been replaced, I have seen too many new thermostats that only work for a few times to trust one just because it is new. Check an existing thermostat by monitoring the temperature of the engine while touching the upper radiator hose. The upper radiator hose should remain cold until the engine has reached nearly the opening temperature of the thermostat. This is typically about 87 degrees C. If the hose feels warm sooner than this, the thermostat is opening too soon and should be replaced or there is coolant flow around the thermostat. Some universal thermostats do not fit tightly in their mounting location and coolant can bypass them. Try a different manufacturer of thermostat if this is the case.
Another cause for poor or no heat is an air lock in the cooling system. Heater cores are often mounted higher than the top of the radiator. If the cooling system has been refilled, air can be trapped in the highest part of the system. Sometimes one of the heater hoses or a coolant hose mounted high on the engine has to be removed from the heater core with the engine running, to "bleed off" the trapped air. Be cautious of hot coolant. It is safer to bleed the air out of the system when it is cold. If heater hoses don't come off the heater core fittings easily, it is better to cut them off and install new hoses rather than chance breaking the heater core itself.
Many manufacturers are now installing air bleed ports at strategic places in the coolant passages to allow air to be manually bled out but sometimes a hose still has to be removed to get the air out. At the factory, the coolant is installed after a vacuum has been created in the system. This fills the system quickly without any air locks. Some repair shops are using this method as well but it doesn't seem to work quite as well as at the factory. It may still need to be bled manually.
Sometimes a corroded heater core causes poor interior heat. The heater core can be flushed with clean water but often this doesn't work well because there are many corners and small passages in a heater core. A heater core with good flow should have one heater hose very hot and the other only slightly cooler. If the outlet hose for the heater stays cold, then the core is restricted. It will probably need replacing. Some vehicles use a water shut off valve for the heater system. Be sure the shut off valve is fully open before condemning the heater core.
It is possible to have a blockage in the heater hoses or at the engine fittings. Older hoses sometimes collapse inside and need replacing. The heater hose fittings on some engines have a small hole in them to slow the flow of coolant at high engine rpm's. If they are blocked, they can be cleaned easily with a drill bit. Don't enlarge the holes though. Coolant flowing too quickly through a heater core doesn't have time to transfer heat to the air passing through. It can also erode the heater core material, causing it to fail prematurely.
Other causes for poor heater performance are restricted air flow through the heater or a cold air leak past the heater core. Misadjusted temperature doors or binding heater control cables can cause cold air to bypass the heater core. Even a small air leak will decrease heater performance significantly. Many new vehicles use a replaceable pollen filter in the heater system to remove dust and pollen. These filters can become plugged quickly in dirty conditions and restrict air flow.
Systems that don't have a pollen filter can still become plugged with leaves, dirt and even mouse nests. Sometimes the housing has to be disassembled to clean it out before heater performance is restored.
Getting heat into a vehicle's passenger compartment isn't rocket science but there are many things that need to be considered. Fortunately, this is a problem that can usually be fixed fairly quickly.
Jim Kerr is a master automotive mechanic and teaches automotive technology. He has been writing automotive articles for fifteen years for newspapers and magazines in Canada and the United States, and is a member of the Automotive Journalist's Association of Canada (AJAC).
Heating problems in winter
by Jim Kerr
Cold weather brings out many problems in a vehicle that would normally not occur or could be overlooked in a warmer climate. One of the more common problems many drivers have is not enough heat in their vehicle.
Checking the thermostat is usually the first step in repairing a vehicle with a lack of heat. Even if the thermostat has just been replaced, I have seen too many new thermostats that only work for a few times to trust one just because it is new. Check an existing thermostat by monitoring the temperature of the engine while touching the upper radiator hose. The upper radiator hose should remain cold until the engine has reached nearly the opening temperature of the thermostat. This is typically about 87 degrees C. If the hose feels warm sooner than this, the thermostat is opening too soon and should be replaced or there is coolant flow around the thermostat. Some universal thermostats do not fit tightly in their mounting location and coolant can bypass them. Try a different manufacturer of thermostat if this is the case.
Another cause for poor or no heat is an air lock in the cooling system. Heater cores are often mounted higher than the top of the radiator. If the cooling system has been refilled, air can be trapped in the highest part of the system. Sometimes one of the heater hoses or a coolant hose mounted high on the engine has to be removed from the heater core with the engine running, to "bleed off" the trapped air. Be cautious of hot coolant. It is safer to bleed the air out of the system when it is cold. If heater hoses don't come off the heater core fittings easily, it is better to cut them off and install new hoses rather than chance breaking the heater core itself.
Many manufacturers are now installing air bleed ports at strategic places in the coolant passages to allow air to be manually bled out but sometimes a hose still has to be removed to get the air out. At the factory, the coolant is installed after a vacuum has been created in the system. This fills the system quickly without any air locks. Some repair shops are using this method as well but it doesn't seem to work quite as well as at the factory. It may still need to be bled manually.
Sometimes a corroded heater core causes poor interior heat. The heater core can be flushed with clean water but often this doesn't work well because there are many corners and small passages in a heater core. A heater core with good flow should have one heater hose very hot and the other only slightly cooler. If the outlet hose for the heater stays cold, then the core is restricted. It will probably need replacing. Some vehicles use a water shut off valve for the heater system. Be sure the shut off valve is fully open before condemning the heater core.
It is possible to have a blockage in the heater hoses or at the engine fittings. Older hoses sometimes collapse inside and need replacing. The heater hose fittings on some engines have a small hole in them to slow the flow of coolant at high engine rpm's. If they are blocked, they can be cleaned easily with a drill bit. Don't enlarge the holes though. Coolant flowing too quickly through a heater core doesn't have time to transfer heat to the air passing through. It can also erode the heater core material, causing it to fail prematurely.
Other causes for poor heater performance are restricted air flow through the heater or a cold air leak past the heater core. Misadjusted temperature doors or binding heater control cables can cause cold air to bypass the heater core. Even a small air leak will decrease heater performance significantly. Many new vehicles use a replaceable pollen filter in the heater system to remove dust and pollen. These filters can become plugged quickly in dirty conditions and restrict air flow.
Systems that don't have a pollen filter can still become plugged with leaves, dirt and even mouse nests. Sometimes the housing has to be disassembled to clean it out before heater performance is restored.
Getting heat into a vehicle's passenger compartment isn't rocket science but there are many things that need to be considered. Fortunately, this is a problem that can usually be fixed fairly quickly.
Jim Kerr is a master automotive mechanic and teaches automotive technology. He has been writing automotive articles for fifteen years for newspapers and magazines in Canada and the United States, and is a member of the Automotive Journalist's Association of Canada (AJAC).
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#9
10-12-2005, 12:50 PM
My guess would be it has to do with you doing something in the dash when you did the screen conversion. It worked fine before you did the swap or had you not turned on the heat at all? Seems like your electrical system is kinda whack - even with the heated seats not working. Maybe you may have screwed something up when you hardwired your player and screen as well? Its worth looking at everything.
Sorry man, I hope you get it fixed. I know camels need a ton of heat in the winter
Sorry man, I hope you get it fixed. I know camels need a ton of heat in the winter
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