G35 Coupe V35 2003 - 07 Discussion about the 1st Generation V35 G35 Coupe
View Poll Results: Cone or Rectangle
Ztube & Cone
6
21.43%
Stock box/ fitler & Ztube
17
60.71%
How the hell would i know ?
5
17.86%
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ztube- Cone or Rectangle ?

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  #16  
Old 11-05-2008, 03:44 PM
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I have the JWT PopCharger on my 07 Coupe. Good thing about it, is that it's C.A.R.B. certified and actually come with a proof sticker. Sounds great. checkout their web site for lots of info if you're doing your 'Due dilligance' http://www.jimwolftechnology.com
 
  #17  
Old 11-05-2008, 05:31 PM
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There were a lot of threads back in 2004 & 2005 when the Dyno Days were being done in FLA and in CA that discussed this. The popcharger was found to cause the G to stall in hot weather due to the fact that hot air was pulled in....this hot air also cause the cars to lose hp as noted in the Dyno runs. The Stock airbox with a hi-flow drop in filter and the Z-tube was found to be the way to go. Only go with the popcharger if you want to get the whistle sound when revving the motor.
 
  #18  
Old 11-05-2008, 06:54 PM
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^^ what do you mean by a hi-flow drop in????
 
  #19  
Old 12-09-2008, 03:21 AM
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Originally Posted by blaccG35
^^ what do you mean by a hi-flow drop in????
here is a link
http://www.g35parts.com/9083/osc/pro...ad6332cdf25042

basically you use your stock box /w the K&N drop in filter
best when used with a z tube
some say its the best option
and its my next mod
 
  #20  
Old 12-09-2008, 03:53 AM
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I would stick with the z-tube, stock box and filter. The z-tube will actually give you a very small power increase because the resonators do in fact dampen some of the energy out of the air flowing in. Do not expect much though, 1 or 2 hp at best. I do not CAI because I do not want to risk water ingestion and I do not want to sacrafice bottom end power, though it will give back some on the top end. I thought about getting the Stillen box since it does shield the heat better than any other aftermarket one I've seen and it gets rid of the other resonators that the stock unit has. I just can not justify spending $200 for such a small difference in power.
Others may disagree, but I do not like the K&N type (cotton gauze) filters either. Studies have shown that they do indeed flow better when new, but obviously the flow goes down as they get dirty. These studies have shown that even after you clean them, they do not flow as well a clean standard type filter. So basically, you only have an advantage when they are new and then you never get it back once it gets a little dirty.
 
  #21  
Old 12-09-2008, 04:32 AM
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^so your saying oem filters is the way to go?
 
  #22  
Old 12-09-2008, 05:03 AM
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Originally Posted by blaccG35
^so your saying oem filters is the way to go?
That's the way I prefer to go. After about 15K-20K miles (I am really guessing at that number) a clean paper filter will flow better even if you cleaned the K&N type. I personally do not like them, but like I said, you will find a ton of people who would disagree.
If you think about how they work it all makes sense. High flow filters work on the principle that they have lots of small cotton fibers interlaced in multiple layers so they trap dirt throughout the thickness of the filter. This provides for more affective area for the air to pass through. Paper filters use a tighter weave so that the gaps between the fibers are just too small for the debris to go through. This is why they do not flow as well when both are new.
Here is why I do not like the high flow filters. Smaller, dust like particles are trapped by the oil on the filter (they need this because of the looser weave). As more and more dust collects on the filter, there is less surface area (of the oil) to attract the dust so overtime more of it will pass more through. I have never seen any data on it, but I would put money on the fact that after being washed, their filtration ability goes way down. I coould only assume that the weave geometry would be far less than ideal and that many of the fibers will clump together. And this assumes you do it properly. Too much oil and it will flow like a brick and foul the MAF sensor. Not enough and it will pass a lot of dust.
These things of been in use by a huge number of people for many years now and I have not heard of any credible stories about anyone having engine damage due to poor filtration. Quite honestly though it would be difficult to prove for the average Joe and then you would need to prove you cared for the filter properly. Personally, even aside from the loss of flow facts, I do not think a few horsepower is worth the risk. I keep my cars for a very long time so it is of the utmost of importance to me to keep my engine as clean as possible.
 
  #23  
Old 12-09-2008, 09:57 AM
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i recently put the JWT pop and Z Tube on my 07 coupe (and had a similar Injen intake on my previous car - a 02 Nissan Maxima).

with both i had a very noticeable loss of low-end power. i'm no engineer so i don't know the technical term for it - so don't start flaming for my choice of words here. hp loss...torque loss...throttle response difference...whatever it is. the point is the off-the-line "grunt" is less. seems to shift the powerband - more pull at higher RPMs and less at low RPMs.

this was common knowledge around the Maxima community but when doing my intake research here before purchasing one for my G35, i didn't really see anyone mentioning that. so i was surprised when the same symptom happened to my G35 after installation of my Z-Tube/JWT combo.

but yea, the added sound, hiss and pull is great. might would consider going with the Z-Tube and stock airbox (with K&N) if i had to do it again though.
 
  #24  
Old 12-09-2008, 11:49 AM
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Stock airbox is very well designed and seems to be the one of the best options and most cost effective especially when paired with a Z-tube. The Z-tube will add 1-2hp (NOT noticeable in any way) and increase your sound a touch at higher RPMs, that is it.

The popcharger is known to have heat issues and depending on environment as other people said, can cause power loss despite the "shield". I suppose it does 'whistle' and if that's what you want, by all means go for it.

CAIs are generally piped all the way down so they are colder, but the extra piping is more restrictive to flow by general fluid dynamics of increased tube length. Look up the formula...resistance is proportional to length and radius to the 4th power. As compared to stock most gain little to no power, some actually lose it...but they cost a lot for that.

Short rams etc are pointless as they sit in the bay and soak up heat without any proper shielding and despite less travel length, probably the worst solution for power. Looks better for sure.

IMO: If you have money and you dyno something that gains you power, obviously keep it. But in general our intakes are very well designed and once you remove the G-tube and replace it with a Z-tube, it's about as good as it will get for the money. Sound mods not withstanding.
 
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