I just did the camber arm and toe bolt install yesterday night and it is much easier to understand it once you do it. For one thing, the bolt kit itself can actually go in one of two locations if you are doing just the bolts. You can put in the bolts to add toe range (enlarge holes at end of the arm that holds the spring towards front of car) or put them in to add camber range (enlarge holes at end of stock camber arms), or both with two sets of the bolts. This is what was confusing me a little before I realized it under the car.

From what I can tell, the only difference in doing the camber arms vs camber bolts is that the range of adjust-ability is a little more with the adjustable arms for camber-even with enlarging the hole for the camber bolts you only get so much adjustment.

Doing the bolts alone I'm pretty sure would mean getting two sets of them and putting the larger range ones in both the toe and camber locations, provided you needed that extra adjustment for both.

 

No STOCK front camber adjustment. Only thing in the front you have stock is TOE, the tie rod do that and you have unlimited adjustment pretty much. Camber requires A-arms. And caster... well i dont know i think thats where the SPC shims but someone on the 350z forums explained to me once it could be due to compression rods wearing

 

The front A-arms from SPC have camber and caster adjustment. They are slotted to allow camber adjustment and they have a special indexed washer thing where the ball joint connects that can add subtract caster (I think it's 1.5 degrees either way).

I actually got my car aligned yesterday afternoon at Firestone with lifetime after doing the front a-arms, rear camber arms and toe bolts and my rears are now perfect all around and the front they asked me to adjust the camber myself -0.5 on the right front and -1 on the left front and then bring it back in for another check. Of course the camber being off is just how I installed everything (the rears were at +2 I think!). I don't think they knew exactly how to do it themselves on the aftermarket part and at the time I didn't either but it is very easy to do with the wheel still on (jack up by the body as you don't want weight on the wheel) and an 8 inch crescent wrench with the handle inside the wheel well pointing toward the engine. You just loosen the top bolt and move the arm in (or out for positive direction) and re-tighten with crescent wrench. The tightening torque is 120 lbs so you really have to pull. They told me it would take an hour on each side to do but it took me all of 5 min jacking up each side of the car so the wheel was off the ground/clearance was wide enough to get at the nut (I think they though they would have to remove the wheel, remove the ball joint and drop the arms to adjust).

I think you need the shim kit to get more positive camber range if needed/wanted (w/o you get -1.5 to .5 w/ gets you -1.5 to 2.5).

 

I have the g/z combo and its really bouncy. Anyone else experiencing that? And what was ur solution?

 

got rid of them, they are no go for the X, least for me.

G/G was i had that on for about 2 months, Z/G was out the window in 2 weeks, Z/Z was on my car for about another month or so. Went stock for a while, now its BC coils for the long haul.

 

Ditch the regular G rears for G35c Sport springs or Revised 350z springs. I have g front and revised 350z rear with no bounce. The regular g or unrevised rears are too soft; softer than stock in fact.

 

Which rear camber arms and toe bolts should I get ? There are several different brands and different prices of them.

Is there another front adjustible A arm option or does everyone recommend the SPC's ?

I just rotated my ties all 4 are wearing more on the insides. I have to get this right eating up tires is pissing me off.

is this a good adjustible camber kit ?????
http://www.ebay.com/itm/GSP-03-08-35...item3cbe626bc1

Adjustable: +3 to -3 degree.
* NOTE: This front camber will not adjust camber to 0 degrees due to car lowered and original factory set up date.
what is the camber supposed to be set to I don't understand this in bold above ?

 

i like SPC rear kits for their price. We have some vendors on here that can do $200 or so for the rear kit.

Fronts i dont have but if i was to get one i would try the kintex one. SPC fronts have some issues. SPL is beefy but it has a beefy price tag but worth it for people who race.

 

i had revised and unrevised Z springs and they both bounced. G coupe all around was something i might of been able to accept but the drop isn't ANYTHING. It looked like stock height compared to other cars. Function was probably a little better then stock but i never took turns to see if it mattered

 

I don't think most cheaper a-arms have caster adjustment-whether you want that or not is another choice.

Also, going to all metal bushings which some arms have (especially rears) is stiffer for track driving but I've heard it can be squeaky/noisy vs poly/rubber unless you spray it with lube periodically.

 

Honestly, the factory a-arms are aluminum and really very light/almost seemed flimsy when I took them off, so I doubt you can go too wrong with any aftermarket arms, at least in terms of safety.

I was told camber should be near 0 for street driving/even tire wear unless you want negative camber for better performance/on track.

 

I think they are maybe saying it's hard to get those arms to exactly 0 camber on a lowered car because the lowered car puts camber so negative . . . some other posts reported GSP's not enough positive range on lowered cars to get back close to 0 (like 3" lowered)

 

so zero camber is best for tires wear ? that's all I care about I don't carve corners I just want the car to look good lowered and not wear out the tires.

thinking about trying these...
Momentums
https://g35driver.com/forums/suspens...mber-arms.html
or SPC's
https://g35driver.com/forums/suspens...tires-___.html

 

Right, 0 camber means your tires are flat on the ground and not tilted in or out so should provide the most even wear. My readout from Firestone had the factory-specified ("acceptable") camber range as -1 to +.5.

 

what's wrong with them ?

after seeing a Itchiba rear camber arm failure on here today I want to be sure I'm getting the good parts