you will not screw up your awd by slamming it.

 

If your goal is to eliminate wheel gap...Z / Coupe is the best combo for your buck.....................until you realize it could go a tad lower and then just go with BC Racing Coilovers.

 

+1 But please realize you will be changing the geometry of the car and will almost definately need a front/rear camber kit (even on just the Z/Coupe drop)....unless you can find a shop to get it near spec or can deal with some neg camber/toe. My buddy's company (TH Motorsports) will give you a good deal on Front and rear kits with toe bolts.

 

245/40/19 falken fk's on all four.

 

06x on eibach prokit, with stock shocks/struts
Negative camber is cool =]
275/35/19 rear 245/40/19 front

 

For those of you that were the first to get the BC coilovers, what are your impressions now that you have put a few thousand miles on them? Do they still ride the same? Better/worse than when you got them? Have those pillow ball top mounts started rattling yet?

A buddy of mine said that his first set of coilvers started making noise after a few thousand miles because of the pillow ball top mounts. They became so loud he couldn't hear his radio anymore and was embarrassed to have anyone ride with him because it sounded like his car was going to fall apart. Those were early coilovers though, probably mid to late nineties. Back when coilovers cost a fortune. It wrecked his opinion of coilovers though and even after all of these years and countless modded Supras, 2.5RSs WRXs, STIs, turbo Integras, and now his US spec Forrester STI, he still hasn't given pillow ball mounts another chance. Just wanted to know if anyone was having issues like that with their BC Coils.

I wish I lived near someone with BC Coils so I could have them take me for a ride and see what they ride like because I am seriously considering buying a set. I guess you can't go wrong since they are only $1000.00. That's less than I spent on tires this month...

 

I sold 2006nightrider 350Z springs for the front and sport coupe springs for the rear. You need to get off a coupe with OEM sports suspension.

This combo will drop the front 1" front and 0.5" rear. You will have some wheel gap, but some sedans will not have to run any camber kits.

If you want a lower drop, I would suggest Tein S-Techs for a sedan. This dropped my car 2" front and 1.5" rear. I have almost no wheel gap with my OEM 18-inch wheels. My sedan is not an AWD.

 

I would do the Z/G combo...I'm loving the way it sits right now, and the ride is basically the same as stock.
I think the G/Z combo actually lowered mine close to 1.5" in the front and 1" in the rear...which is even better. I told you when we were outside your house talking that I wanted it to sit right on top of the tires..and it is

I know it's different with every car, but I don't need a camber kit for mine after putting these springs on.

 

stop spending $ on used and abused springs off other cars. I never got the point of it.

With Z springs ur sedan will become bouncy in over short period of time.

Get eibachprokit and u will be lookin to new shocks and struts ina year anyways. Cause any drop will start killin ur stock suspension.

Eibachprokit for decent drop, H&R for low look.
Im sayin this cause I've been thru it.
3300lbs cars springs on a 3700+lbs car is just not the best idea. just my .02 cents.

 

come to chicago, Me and g35xchicago both have them.

Well mines are off for the winter. but spring time swing by.

I LOVE my coilovers 10x better then Z/coupe springs.

 

^ have you played around with the dampening settings at all? i still have mine set the same. I feel like the ride is getting bouncier??? who knows...

 

Why doesn't anyone get shorter Struts/shocks when they put in lowering springs?

 

^Because they are not available for the front of the G35x. I was going to look into cutting the top off of a stock strut and removing 1" of rod and then TIG weld the top back on but I am not sure how safe that would be. I have no doubt that the TIG weld would be strong enough but it might remove some of the heat treatment from the shock rod. Essentially removing an inch from the rod length would change the location of travel in the bore of the shock back to where it should be (if you have a 1" drop) It would be much safer to just buy BC Coils but I want to wait and see if those pillow ball top mounts last or if they start to rattle after a few thousand miles first.

 

can someone who has seen the underside of the X's explain what the clearance issues are?

Also why do we have to use the BC coilovers, what about coilovers for the RWD's?

 

^^Did you read this whole thing?^^

Gergdees: I driven to Cali and back and I don't have any pillow ball top mount rattles. On second thought, I dont think I have pillow ball top mounts.