Difference was NIGHT and DAY!!!
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From: LA, PDX, & Everywhere between
so you disconnected the maf from both sides, (the filter and the z-tube) and then held the towel behind one end and sprayed through the filter?
^ is this correct?
Why did you hold the towel at the other end? to catch overspray or to see what you were spraying off? THX
^ is this correct?
Why did you hold the towel at the other end? to catch overspray or to see what you were spraying off? THX
Originally Posted by BigSash
so you disconnected the maf from both sides, (the filter and the z-tube) and then held the towel behind one end and sprayed through the filter?
^ is this correct?
Why did you hold the towel at the other end? to catch overspray or to see what you were spraying off? THX
^ is this correct?
Why did you hold the towel at the other end? to catch overspray or to see what you were spraying off? THX
He cleaned the MAF sensor (that little strip of metal in the 2-3 inch plastic tube). Not the filter (which is the big regtangular thing in the box).
I think you know this, but your wording is confusing, so I'm clearing it up for anyone who hasnt opened up their intake before.
On another note, THANKS!! this really helped.
Originally Posted by BigSash
so you disconnected the maf from both sides, (the filter and the z-tube) and then held the towel behind one end and sprayed through the filter?
^ is this correct?
Why did you hold the towel at the other end? to catch overspray or to see what you were spraying off? THX
^ is this correct?
Why did you hold the towel at the other end? to catch overspray or to see what you were spraying off? THX
Yes, to catch overspray instead of having the cleaner sprayed all over my engine compartment. Again, I held the MAF housing up, covered the grilled end and sprayed on the other side.
Ideally, one can even remove the 4 screws holding the plate where the MAF is installed so you clearly see the MAF sensors. Guess I was too lazy for that...
The whole procedure took 15 minutes max.
Alex
Originally Posted by andycon
Man, oh man - now u got me excited - for some time I have been really concerned about the sluggish bottom-end, and I have been searching for answers - sounds exactly what u are describing - What I am experiencing is (relatively) sluggish take-off up to about 3,000rpm, then it really kicks-in over 3000. In colder weather, it is much better, until the car warms up, then it bogs down.
I had a suspicion the MAF may be affected, now you have provided some indications that it may be - especially, as you say, on the earlier models (I have 03 too).
I got a dynapack dyno recently at SGP (a crappy dyno), it indicates screwed-up A/F ratio. The dyno is crappy because they dyno'd in 4th and it kicks back to 3rd. (am getting a re-do for free). When you dyno the 03's it needs to be done in 3rd (ramp-up to 3600), then power on. However, the A/F is around 14 until 3500rpm, then it drops to 13 thru the run
FWIW, peak HP was only 230, but I was more interested in setting a baseline and looking at the A/F.
I got a dynapack dyno recently at SGP (a crappy dyno), it indicates screwed-up A/F ratio. The dyno is crappy because they dyno'd in 4th and it kicks back to 3rd. (am getting a re-do for free). When you dyno the 03's it needs to be done in 3rd (ramp-up to 3600), then power on. However, the A/F is around 14 until 3500rpm, then it drops to 13 thru the run
FWIW, peak HP was only 230, but I was more interested in setting a baseline and looking at the A/F.
Anyway, in addition, I got a loaner car the other day 
while they did the AC TSB replacement - the loaner was an 05 5AT, and for comparison sake 
I tried a few standing starts - I could get the loaner to easily break loose from a mild brake-launch, whereas it is hard to get mine to spin. (although I do have better/wider tires (245/45/18)). It also felt zippier thru about 4500rpm, then I think my top-end was stronger (azz-dyno).
I will report back this afternoon after a MAF cleaning.... hoooo looking forward to this one....
while they did the AC TSB replacement - the loaner was an 05 5AT, and for comparison sake I tried a few standing starts - I could get the loaner to easily break loose from a mild brake-launch, whereas it is hard to get mine to spin. (although I do have better/wider tires (245/45/18)). It also felt zippier thru about 4500rpm, then I think my top-end was stronger (azz-dyno).I will report back this afternoon after a MAF cleaning.... hoooo looking forward to this one....
BTW, the 18s are hurting your initial launch too.
Originally Posted by DaveB
This is something all 5ATs tend to do. The reason why the car feels better in the colder weather is because the air is denser with oxygen.
There's nothing wrong with your MAF and your A/F ratio is fine. The A/F should start at 15:1-14:1 and steadily fall has the rpms rise. The ideal A/F above 5000rpms is in the 13:1 range.
The reason why the loaner felt so good is because it has the stock intake and most likely the smaller 17s. Like I've said all along, aftermarket intakes hurt low rpm throttle response. I recently did an experiment with my stock intake box. I yanked the Power Duct and the over radiator duct, basically increasing the intake volume of the stock intake by about 60%. The intake was deafening, but low rpm throttle response went in the tank. With the ducts in place, the car feels much stronger under initial launch, often times spinning the tires for 10' in hot weather. With this revised intake setup, the car would barely chirp a tire and the initial bog was worse. I put the ducts back on and everything was back to normal. The most significant thing I noticed without the ducts in place was the lack of surge in power as the car upshifted under normal throttle. It's hard to explain, but when the ducts are in place, there is a wave of power on each successive upshift.
BTW, the 18s are hurting your initial launch too.
There's nothing wrong with your MAF and your A/F ratio is fine. The A/F should start at 15:1-14:1 and steadily fall has the rpms rise. The ideal A/F above 5000rpms is in the 13:1 range.
The reason why the loaner felt so good is because it has the stock intake and most likely the smaller 17s. Like I've said all along, aftermarket intakes hurt low rpm throttle response. I recently did an experiment with my stock intake box. I yanked the Power Duct and the over radiator duct, basically increasing the intake volume of the stock intake by about 60%. The intake was deafening, but low rpm throttle response went in the tank. With the ducts in place, the car feels much stronger under initial launch, often times spinning the tires for 10' in hot weather. With this revised intake setup, the car would barely chirp a tire and the initial bog was worse. I put the ducts back on and everything was back to normal. The most significant thing I noticed without the ducts in place was the lack of surge in power as the car upshifted under normal throttle. It's hard to explain, but when the ducts are in place, there is a wave of power on each successive upshift.
BTW, the 18s are hurting your initial launch too.
will do this thing tonight.
Originally Posted by DaveB
The reason why the loaner felt so good is because it has the stock intake and most likely the smaller 17s. Like I've said all along, aftermarket intakes hurt low rpm throttle response. I recently did an experiment with my stock intake box. I yanked the Power Duct and the over radiator duct, basically increasing the intake volume of the stock intake by about 60%. The intake was deafening, but low rpm throttle response went in the tank. With the ducts in place, the car feels much stronger under initial launch, often times spinning the tires for 10' in hot weather. With this revised intake setup, the car would barely chirp a tire and the initial bog was worse. I put the ducts back on and everything was back to normal. The most significant thing I noticed without the ducts in place was the lack of surge in power as the car upshifted under normal throttle. It's hard to explain, but when the ducts are in place, there is a wave of power on each successive upshift.
BTW, the 18s are hurting your initial launch too.
BTW, the 18s are hurting your initial launch too.
Intakes work with the correct setup. EOD.
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Originally Posted by andycon
Man, oh man - now u got me excited - for some time I have been really concerned about the sluggish bottom-end, and I have been searching for answers - sounds exactly what u are describing .....
Initally, not much to report - no real kick in the pants, but after driving back to work and screwing around, the car does seem to be pulling a little better - perhaps taking a little for the ECU to adjust? So I did an ECU pedal adjust - after that, there was some difference, but not night and day difference like the original poster, but it sure didn't hurt. I felt more of a difference dropping the clutch-fan and replacing with the e-fan setup. (early 2003 came with a mechanical clutch-fan bolted to the main pulley, not electric. replacing this with electric fans (e-fans) does make it much quieter and frees up some noticable HP - IMO)
BTW, DaveB, thanks for the comments. I will post my dyno in a seperate post - you can see how messed up it is...
Originally Posted by G35_TX
And did you actually measure it to be 60%?
Intakes work with the correct setup. EOD.