Who changes their own oil?
#21
11-19-2006, 01:39 PM
#22
11-19-2006, 04:16 PM
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Originally Posted by G35m@
Anyone else change their own fluids with just the basic garage tools?
1,565
3,481
6,041
8,957
11,720 miles
I found this to be very helpful in prepping me the 1st time:
http://www.g-owners.com/article_read.asp?id=17
pictures are always nice
If you take frequent oil samples for testing, I would recommend the Fumoto drain valve.
Originally Posted by digital1986
sweet thanks tcat, what oil filter will go best with this??
Originally Posted by sloppymax
Here is some great information for anyone using the oem filter. oem oil filter breakdown
#24
11-19-2006, 10:32 PM
Man, I changed my oil about 200 miles ago and today I started smelling something weird in the car, kind of like burning. So I get home and check the ground where I usually park and there's some oil on the ground. I didn't tighten everything I guess, first thing tomorrow morning I'm gonna tighten everything up and see if I'm low on oil. Hope this doesn't mess anything up too bad! 
#25
11-20-2006, 01:08 AM
Originally Posted by lexusk8
Used to change the oil myself when I had the Lexus ES. I plan to start doing it for the G upon the next oil change date. Once you know how to do the process the first time, it's pretty easy the next time around. Just make sure to also replace the oil drain plug washer (you can get them at the dealer or find a similar size at Lowe's or Home Depot).
. Oil drain plug washers are usually soft metal, like aluminum or copper. This is so that the washer will crush slightly under the force of the drain bolt and make a tight seal. Most of the washers sold at hardware stores are made of steel, which isn't really going to crush. If you ever look at the old washer after you change oil, you can see how it gets deformed by the force of the bolt. Just my 2 cents.
#26
11-20-2006, 08:02 AM
Thanks for everyone's input and I think for this month I'm going to continue letting the shop near my office do the work, but I will be prepped next time around.
One question - I change normal oil around 3k miles and had always changed my Synthetic (Amzoil in the past) at 10K. I even had lab tests done that proved little if any loss in the properties of the oil after 10k. I was running this in a supercharged highly modifed mini cooper S and I don't drive the G nearly as hard.
Why the change at 3k on Mobil 1???
One question - I change normal oil around 3k miles and had always changed my Synthetic (Amzoil in the past) at 10K. I even had lab tests done that proved little if any loss in the properties of the oil after 10k. I was running this in a supercharged highly modifed mini cooper S and I don't drive the G nearly as hard.
Why the change at 3k on Mobil 1???
#27
11-20-2006, 08:53 AM
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#29
11-20-2006, 11:58 AM
i change my own with napa pro gold filter and 5quart botttle of mobil 1 supersyn from walmart... runs about $30 +/- $3 total for materials...
if i get lazy about removing the 10 plus bolts/screws, i take the oil and filter with me to the dealer and have them change it for $25.... being lowered on 350z springs and running on msport 19's makes for longer prep time with rhino ramps and 8ft long 2x6 board.... i've tried removing the filter without removing the cover and oil gets everywhere....real messy. the engine cover designer along with dipstick designer should be taught a lesson on designing for the end user (they should be roughed for not thinking about us diy'ers..).
if i get lazy about removing the 10 plus bolts/screws, i take the oil and filter with me to the dealer and have them change it for $25.... being lowered on 350z springs and running on msport 19's makes for longer prep time with rhino ramps and 8ft long 2x6 board.... i've tried removing the filter without removing the cover and oil gets everywhere....real messy. the engine cover designer along with dipstick designer should be taught a lesson on designing for the end user (they should be roughed for not thinking about us diy'ers..).
#30
11-20-2006, 12:17 PM
I do sorta....................
I also use Mobil 1 synthetic but I won't use inferior
filters. The autoparts store in my area tried to charge
me $18 for a K&N filter for my G. After telling them to
keep it I went on line and found them for $8 and
change. Then I go to a friends shop and use his
lift to change my oil.......easy and I know it's done
right. You don't need to change the copper
washer every time you change oil.........I've yet to
change mine and haven't had a drip!
filters. The autoparts store in my area tried to charge
me $18 for a K&N filter for my G. After telling them to
keep it I went on line and found them for $8 and
change. Then I go to a friends shop and use his
lift to change my oil.......easy and I know it's done
right. You don't need to change the copper
washer every time you change oil.........I've yet to
change mine and haven't had a drip!