I don't think there would be enough interest in a group buy, and I don't think we could lower the price much more and still make enough profit to justify making them.

If we could get at least 10 people to purchase we could offer a 10% discount, which would basically cover shipping in the US.

 

you're right... the price you listed is really good...

Anyone interested in this, you should take advantage - $99 is actually a very good price! I ate the cost for you for the R&D... this is a cheap way to have a very custom look!

Maybe I should hope no one does it and I'll be the only one!

 

I am interested but it might be 3 weeks or so, My car suffered the unthinkable and said hello to a GM truck and landed in a 5ft ditch. I should have her back in 3weeks.
I would buy one then if possible.

thanks

 

Couldn't you just use a trailer brake light wiring kit you can get for $9.99 from Pep Boys?

That's what we use on motorcycles to integrate the blinkers into the brake lights.

 

That idea was tossed around when I initially dug into this…

the BCM controls too much for it to be that easy... It certainly seems like an easy concept, and trust me I thought it would be a far simpler thing to accomplish... but the couple of quick solutions that have been mentioned (not just yours) are not accomplished quite so easy.

Anyone that thinks they have a solution that works I would be very interested to see what options I would have had... I think you will find this is your best bet.

A series of multiple relays could work... but it’s a very difficult task at best. I had an extremely knowledgeable auto electrical guy work on it for quite a while - it wasn’t a lost cause, just not a quick an easy attempt.

This solution is what works.

I would be interested to see others make it happen and share the process.

 

Did anyone try it? A trailer module take 6 leads and makes it into 4.

I posted in the electronics section over the summer that I was going to try it, and even had someone offer me a free tail light. Never got around to it....

 

I have not looked at your led array but the FX led array has a circuit board in it. I don't believe it's a simple 12v or ground switching system. I may be wrong.

 

If you try a trailer module make sure you find one that is designed to be hooked directly to the battery so that it isn't pulling the light current off of the turn signal wire. The turn signals are controlled by the BCM and you risk damaging the BCM if you try to pull more current then it is designed for. Another reason to use a battery source is the brake lights are LED and the turn signals are conventional incandescent bulbs, meaning the current draw of the two loads is night and day different. You wouldn't want a source designed to feed an LED array driving a 20+ watt turn signal bulb.

Other then that, I don't know enough about trailor light modules to say if they would work or not. I priced a few out and the ones I would use were in the $50-60 range.

 

The guy I had working on wiring diagrams (prior to contacting Kevin @ KPT) had considered the trailer module method – he bench tested a few things and for every step of success he ran into another hurdle – not just the trailer idea, several other wiring attempts.

The module Kevin created, that I am using, is most certainly not the only way to make this work. However, there is no quick and easy way. And I haven’t had anyone mention anything that was not considered or tried in my road to getting it done.

I would be very interested to see what others come up with. I’m happy that it’s done on my car so it really won’t benefit me if someone finds another option – but with the amount of time spent getting to where I ended up, I’d be curious to know if there was an easier route.

 

Yippee… Got the 2nd module today and the load resistors for the OEM bulb! (STOOF, sorry I didn’t have a chance to vid the LED and OEM bulb flashing – it actually looks kinda cool… tonight I will be have everything installed so the bulb will no longer flash…

One thing I think I mucked – I got 25 watt 5 ohm resistors… the OEM bulb is 21 watt, 12 volts which = 1.75 amps of current. 25 Watts with 5 ohm resistance = 2.24 amps of current…

I was using an ohm resistance calculator to determine what ohm to use (25 watt was only option close to 21)… when calculating I was basing current from 21 Watt 12 volt instead of 25 watt 12 volt… will the difference in load resistance using 5 instead of 10 ohm be an issue?...

Kevin, I know we talked a bit about this, but I’ve had to learn more about ohm resistance in the last 2 days than I ever had in school…

I realize that the turn signal is so intermittent for such short durations that it won’t normally be as issue… however, potentially long periods of hazards (if ever necessary) is my concern regarding heat.

Input please…

BTW, it’s not easy finding 25 watt resistors so it’s not as if I can just run to the store and get 10 ohm… but I’ll postpone install and order them if 5 ohm might cause a problem.

Also, for those that care – here’s a cool website that has the ohms calculator I mentioned… and a bunch of other cool info: http://www.the12volt.com/ohm/page2.asp

 

so, is this going to work for the coupes as well?

 

yes... Kevin tested it on his coupe first... there's a vid buried in this thread somewhere.

 

How many resistors did you buy? If you bought extras you can wire two in series.

Now, to the bad news....

5 ohms is too low.

You have to assume the battery voltage will be 14.4 volts when the engine is running, so we will use that number. 5 ohms at 14.4 volts will give you 2.88A of current. 2.88A of current at 14.4vdc will give you 41.5 watts of power, 16.5 watts over the rated value of your resistor.

My calculations show that for 12vdc at 5 ohms you will have 2.4A of current which will lead to 28.8 watts.

So your options are to buy two more identical resistors to give you a 10 ohm load or go with something like this:

http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...me=FVT25-10-ND

http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...name=HLA-10-ND

http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...me=L25J10RE-ND

With your application I would feel safe using 5 ohm resistors temporarily, but I would be afraid your BCM isn't going to like the extra current draw.

 

vid of the coupe is on post #48.
here: https://g35driver.com/forums/showpos...1&postcount=48

(coupe question)
is there a way just to make either the circle leds or square leds to blink?? i know the main plug connects to the taillights and then it split into 2 plugs. from there each plug go the array of leds (circle and other square). is there a way to put a module there so only one (circle or square) blinks??

 

Aw *****!!!!!