Going from M3 to G35
#16
I used to own a BMW. I loved the car but like you said, maintenance is a pain once its out of warranty. Gets expensive. I haven't had the issues with the G35 anywhere close to what the bimmer was. So, as far as reliability is concerned, I think you are looking in the right direction. I've got 149K miles on my car now.
2006 Sedan with a vortech V3 would be a sweet setup. I say go for it.
2006 Sedan with a vortech V3 would be a sweet setup. I say go for it.
#18
Ok, sounds like I couldn't sway you into getting a 335 and you have a desire to stick with the G35 so here we go
2005/2006 "Revup" G/Z's (6MT varients, I think you know this) have some pretty serious issues with oil consumption. The main advantage of this motor is it's ability to rev to and that it has stronger rod bolts. The downside is the OC issue and it's lack of low rpm torque. The lack of torque can be fixed with the MREV setup and some 3.9+ gears. The OC issue is a bit more complicated, obviously. If you buy one of these cars MAKE SURE it's a CPO car and it has ALL oil change records. This is important. When you purchase the car, monitor oil usage for around 5K miles or so. If the motor is consuming more than 1QT every 5K miles, I'd start to get a bit concerned.
From what I've read, the V3 blowers are an improvement over the prior models. What I like about these SC's is the linear power delivery. The SC doesn't have sledge hammer torque nor does it have any lag. It will typically make lower numbers compared to a turbo, but it's a much better track orientated setup. Since boost builds progressively, you have a lot more time to catch a fueling issue before it can take out the motor. Turbos aren't as friendly because boost builds very quickly and at low rpms which can quickly wreck a motor in a matter of a second. Maintenance is pretty easy on SC as well and you can continue drive if the blower has issues (simply remove the belt). The only real issues I have with these blowers is their tendency to shred belts. This seems to be more of an issue when people start running smaller pullies.
Boosting the VQ35 is like walking on eg shells. Luckily, the Revup VQ35 is slightly better suited to boost because of the stronger rod bolts, but remember it is still an NA motor with a light assembly designed to rev and not handle boost. The crank is stout, the lowend is stout. The issue is the rods. They're made to rev and are rather weak. For the most reliability, you should consider upgrading the rods and pistons.
For supporting mods, you've got a whole slew of things to choose from. Tuning can be accomplished by one of many systems available. For intake manifold stuff and exhaust, I'd stick with Motordyne (MD). Tony (the owner) is focused on legit numbers, driveability, and sound quality. You'll have numerous options to choose from. MD is also coming out high flow cats and Tony has told me they're nothing like we've seen before. I don't know what that exactly means, but he's sparked enough curiousity for me to suspend a HFC purchase until these are released. Since you want a Vortech blower, I'd upgrade the gears so that you can get into the boost a bit quicker. You'll probably need to upgrade the clutch as well as the stocker is pretty weak. If you want to keep the noise down to sane levels, consider going with the HR Y-pipe (search that term) and getting an 03/04 muffler can (smaller than the 05/06 can). You'll get a nice healthy sound, about 7whp/wtq, and no drone/rasp. A catback will be much louder and is only good for around 10-11whp.
A 05/06 sedan 6MT with a Vortech V3 5lb unit, tuning, 3.9 gears, MREV, some exhaust work, and 15" or 16" DRs should be good for 12.7-13.0@107-109mph.
Welcome to the site.
![Wink](https://g35driver.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
2005/2006 "Revup" G/Z's (6MT varients, I think you know this) have some pretty serious issues with oil consumption. The main advantage of this motor is it's ability to rev to and that it has stronger rod bolts. The downside is the OC issue and it's lack of low rpm torque. The lack of torque can be fixed with the MREV setup and some 3.9+ gears. The OC issue is a bit more complicated, obviously. If you buy one of these cars MAKE SURE it's a CPO car and it has ALL oil change records. This is important. When you purchase the car, monitor oil usage for around 5K miles or so. If the motor is consuming more than 1QT every 5K miles, I'd start to get a bit concerned.
From what I've read, the V3 blowers are an improvement over the prior models. What I like about these SC's is the linear power delivery. The SC doesn't have sledge hammer torque nor does it have any lag. It will typically make lower numbers compared to a turbo, but it's a much better track orientated setup. Since boost builds progressively, you have a lot more time to catch a fueling issue before it can take out the motor. Turbos aren't as friendly because boost builds very quickly and at low rpms which can quickly wreck a motor in a matter of a second. Maintenance is pretty easy on SC as well and you can continue drive if the blower has issues (simply remove the belt). The only real issues I have with these blowers is their tendency to shred belts. This seems to be more of an issue when people start running smaller pullies.
Boosting the VQ35 is like walking on eg shells. Luckily, the Revup VQ35 is slightly better suited to boost because of the stronger rod bolts, but remember it is still an NA motor with a light assembly designed to rev and not handle boost. The crank is stout, the lowend is stout. The issue is the rods. They're made to rev and are rather weak. For the most reliability, you should consider upgrading the rods and pistons.
For supporting mods, you've got a whole slew of things to choose from. Tuning can be accomplished by one of many systems available. For intake manifold stuff and exhaust, I'd stick with Motordyne (MD). Tony (the owner) is focused on legit numbers, driveability, and sound quality. You'll have numerous options to choose from. MD is also coming out high flow cats and Tony has told me they're nothing like we've seen before. I don't know what that exactly means, but he's sparked enough curiousity for me to suspend a HFC purchase until these are released. Since you want a Vortech blower, I'd upgrade the gears so that you can get into the boost a bit quicker. You'll probably need to upgrade the clutch as well as the stocker is pretty weak. If you want to keep the noise down to sane levels, consider going with the HR Y-pipe (search that term) and getting an 03/04 muffler can (smaller than the 05/06 can). You'll get a nice healthy sound, about 7whp/wtq, and no drone/rasp. A catback will be much louder and is only good for around 10-11whp.
A 05/06 sedan 6MT with a Vortech V3 5lb unit, tuning, 3.9 gears, MREV, some exhaust work, and 15" or 16" DRs should be good for 12.7-13.0@107-109mph.
Welcome to the site.
#21
#22
Ok, sounds like I couldn't sway you into getting a 335 and you have a desire to stick with the G35 so here we go
2005/2006 "Revup" G/Z's (6MT varients, I think you know this) have some pretty serious issues with oil consumption. The main advantage of this motor is it's ability to rev to and that it has stronger rod bolts. The downside is the OC issue and it's lack of low rpm torque. The lack of torque can be fixed with the MREV setup and some 3.9+ gears. The OC issue is a bit more complicated, obviously. If you buy one of these cars MAKE SURE it's a CPO car and it has ALL oil change records. This is important. When you purchase the car, monitor oil usage for around 5K miles or so. If the motor is consuming more than 1QT every 5K miles, I'd start to get a bit concerned.
From what I've read, the V3 blowers are an improvement over the prior models. What I like about these SC's is the linear power delivery. The SC doesn't have sledge hammer torque nor does it have any lag. It will typically make lower numbers compared to a turbo, but it's a much better track orientated setup. Since boost builds progressively, you have a lot more time to catch a fueling issue before it can take out the motor. Turbos aren't as friendly because boost builds very quickly and at low rpms which can quickly wreck a motor in a matter of a second. Maintenance is pretty easy on SC as well and you can continue drive if the blower has issues (simply remove the belt). The only real issues I have with these blowers is their tendency to shred belts. This seems to be more of an issue when people start running smaller pullies.
Boosting the VQ35 is like walking on eg shells. Luckily, the Revup VQ35 is slightly better suited to boost because of the stronger rod bolts, but remember it is still an NA motor with a light assembly designed to rev and not handle boost. The crank is stout, the lowend is stout. The issue is the rods. They're made to rev and are rather weak. For the most reliability, you should consider upgrading the rods and pistons.
For supporting mods, you've got a whole slew of things to choose from. Tuning can be accomplished by one of many systems available. For intake manifold stuff and exhaust, I'd stick with Motordyne (MD). Tony (the owner) is focused on legit numbers, driveability, and sound quality. You'll have numerous options to choose from. MD is also coming out high flow cats and Tony has told me they're nothing like we've seen before. I don't know what that exactly means, but he's sparked enough curiousity for me to suspend a HFC purchase until these are released. Since you want a Vortech blower, I'd upgrade the gears so that you can get into the boost a bit quicker. You'll probably need to upgrade the clutch as well as the stocker is pretty weak. If you want to keep the noise down to sane levels, consider going with the HR Y-pipe (search that term) and getting an 03/04 muffler can (smaller than the 05/06 can). You'll get a nice healthy sound, about 7whp/wtq, and no drone/rasp. A catback will be much louder and is only good for around 10-11whp.
A 05/06 sedan 6MT with a Vortech V3 5lb unit, tuning, 3.9 gears, MREV, some exhaust work, and 15" or 16" DRs should be good for 12.7-13.0@107-109mph.
Welcome to the site.
![Wink](https://g35driver.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
2005/2006 "Revup" G/Z's (6MT varients, I think you know this) have some pretty serious issues with oil consumption. The main advantage of this motor is it's ability to rev to and that it has stronger rod bolts. The downside is the OC issue and it's lack of low rpm torque. The lack of torque can be fixed with the MREV setup and some 3.9+ gears. The OC issue is a bit more complicated, obviously. If you buy one of these cars MAKE SURE it's a CPO car and it has ALL oil change records. This is important. When you purchase the car, monitor oil usage for around 5K miles or so. If the motor is consuming more than 1QT every 5K miles, I'd start to get a bit concerned.
From what I've read, the V3 blowers are an improvement over the prior models. What I like about these SC's is the linear power delivery. The SC doesn't have sledge hammer torque nor does it have any lag. It will typically make lower numbers compared to a turbo, but it's a much better track orientated setup. Since boost builds progressively, you have a lot more time to catch a fueling issue before it can take out the motor. Turbos aren't as friendly because boost builds very quickly and at low rpms which can quickly wreck a motor in a matter of a second. Maintenance is pretty easy on SC as well and you can continue drive if the blower has issues (simply remove the belt). The only real issues I have with these blowers is their tendency to shred belts. This seems to be more of an issue when people start running smaller pullies.
Boosting the VQ35 is like walking on eg shells. Luckily, the Revup VQ35 is slightly better suited to boost because of the stronger rod bolts, but remember it is still an NA motor with a light assembly designed to rev and not handle boost. The crank is stout, the lowend is stout. The issue is the rods. They're made to rev and are rather weak. For the most reliability, you should consider upgrading the rods and pistons.
For supporting mods, you've got a whole slew of things to choose from. Tuning can be accomplished by one of many systems available. For intake manifold stuff and exhaust, I'd stick with Motordyne (MD). Tony (the owner) is focused on legit numbers, driveability, and sound quality. You'll have numerous options to choose from. MD is also coming out high flow cats and Tony has told me they're nothing like we've seen before. I don't know what that exactly means, but he's sparked enough curiousity for me to suspend a HFC purchase until these are released. Since you want a Vortech blower, I'd upgrade the gears so that you can get into the boost a bit quicker. You'll probably need to upgrade the clutch as well as the stocker is pretty weak. If you want to keep the noise down to sane levels, consider going with the HR Y-pipe (search that term) and getting an 03/04 muffler can (smaller than the 05/06 can). You'll get a nice healthy sound, about 7whp/wtq, and no drone/rasp. A catback will be much louder and is only good for around 10-11whp.
A 05/06 sedan 6MT with a Vortech V3 5lb unit, tuning, 3.9 gears, MREV, some exhaust work, and 15" or 16" DRs should be good for 12.7-13.0@107-109mph.
Welcome to the site.
The lack of low end torque is also present in the m3 so I am somewhat used to it. I have some questions:
Which MREV set up would you recommend? I've read that the 5/16 would be better. There are lots of different packages available on the MD site. Can I go straight for the MREV 2 manifold?
Where is the best place to get 3.9 gears? Is the Central 20 gear set the one I should be looking at?
All the things you mentioned about the Vortech are the reasons behind me wanting that particular set up and not a turbo.
I got a quote from a shop on the Vortech install and they stated that when they install these type of FI units they take certain measures to improve reliability and longevity of the engine. I am guessing that means they reinforce the rods and pistons but I will double check. They also suggested I go for a stage 4 6 puck sprung competition clutch and a single mass steel flywheel. They said they would tune the car using UpRev. I am not interested in making a lot of noise, I like deep throaty exhaust sound but nothing loud. I read about people going with the HR Y pipe, coupe mid pipe and HKS muffler.
I'd recommend a used 335ci. Faster than a stock M3 in a straight line, but a very good back seat.
If this is a daily driven family car, I wouldn't risk putting FI in it.
G35 6MT sedan is a blast though, you don't really need more speed, but there's nothing as too much power.
If this is a daily driven family car, I wouldn't risk putting FI in it.
G35 6MT sedan is a blast though, you don't really need more speed, but there's nothing as too much power.
I used to own a BMW. I loved the car but like you said, maintenance is a pain once its out of warranty. Gets expensive. I haven't had the issues with the G35 anywhere close to what the bimmer was. So, as far as reliability is concerned, I think you are looking in the right direction. I've got 149K miles on my car now.
2006 Sedan with a vortech V3 would be a sweet setup. I say go for it.
2006 Sedan with a vortech V3 would be a sweet setup. I say go for it.
Thanks for all the feedback/advice guys, it is really helpful.
#23
Fwiw, I have a friend with an e46 m3 coupe stock w/ an exhaust. My 03.5 6mt NA sedan fully bolted with 4.083 gears and osiris tune will hang w/ if not pull on it in every gear all depending on shift point and accuracy. BTW hes on stock wheels no system..im on 20" cast painted with 2 12"s, 2 amps and a spare battery in trunk, and full suede interior. IMO a vortech will pair very well w/ the shorter gearing..my future plans.
#24
Fwiw, I have a friend with an e46 m3 coupe stock w/ an exhaust. My 03.5 6mt NA sedan fully bolted with 4.083 gears and osiris tune will hang w/ if not pull on it in every gear all depending on shift point and accuracy. BTW hes on stock wheels no system..im on 20" cast painted with 2 12"s, 2 amps and a spare battery in trunk, and full suede interior. IMO a vortech will pair very well w/ the shorter gearing..my future plans.
#25
http://www.g35parts.com/Nissan-4-083...8100-4083x.htm
http://mynismo.com/products/?id=6135
My oem clutch went out at 50K after 50 miles with the gears. ACT hdss clutch/flywheel have held up perfectly since. These gears are an Nissan OEM part from the Frontier and have made me able to hang with all the cars u listed as options. Have a buddy with a srt8 GC modded and we are very even, and another w/ a Suby LGT 05 w/ fmic conv. 09sti turbo swap, which is the quickest of the bunch, but just barely and is at the limits of its tranny (shouldve got the spec-b). I love my sedan to this day, hope this helps.
http://mynismo.com/products/?id=6135
My oem clutch went out at 50K after 50 miles with the gears. ACT hdss clutch/flywheel have held up perfectly since. These gears are an Nissan OEM part from the Frontier and have made me able to hang with all the cars u listed as options. Have a buddy with a srt8 GC modded and we are very even, and another w/ a Suby LGT 05 w/ fmic conv. 09sti turbo swap, which is the quickest of the bunch, but just barely and is at the limits of its tranny (shouldve got the spec-b). I love my sedan to this day, hope this helps.
#26
#27
My guess would be b/c they are not a mass produced oem gear set like the 4.083. I looked into the central 3.9 set as I thought the 4.08 would be too aggressive, but another consideration was the ease/cost of install for the 4.083..The shim job proved to be very minor..tho I cant speak for the 3.9's.
#28
I'd steer clear of lightened flywheels because they'll make your tranny sound like a big rig at idle and in the lower rpms. A lightened flywheel will also wreck lowend torque and the car's launching ability.
#29
It'd not as huge of a difference as many believe. It's "feels" like a huge improvement, but when you look at it on paper, it's not going to make a big difference. Maybe .1 seconds in the 1/4 mile if you're good with the shifter. The gearing of the 6MT is already pretty deep and VQ35 revup doesn't rev nearly as high as the M3's I6 so it's not as dependant on the torque multiplication. With the Vortech, the extra gearing will definitely help though.
I'd steer clear of lightened flywheels because they'll make your tranny sound like a big rig at idle and in the lower rpms. A lightened flywheel will also wreck lowend torque and the car's launching ability.
I'd steer clear of lightened flywheels because they'll make your tranny sound like a big rig at idle and in the lower rpms. A lightened flywheel will also wreck lowend torque and the car's launching ability.
The shop suggested that I let them install an upgraded clutch and flywheel on their own. If you know that the LTFW will hurt lowend tq and ability to launch I might as well tell them not to put the flywheel in and save some $ at the same time. It seems to me that this particular shop suggests this type of set up for all their FI installs (Upgraded clutch + LTFW).
#30
Registered User
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 252
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
That's awesome! I must've missed the part about the full tune and I can see how that would get you close to that mark, I can't imagine anyone's M3 would be able to make that kind of power with what you had done but it's obviously not impossible!
![Biggthumpup](https://g35driver.com/forums/images/smilies/biggthumpup.gif)
![Biggthumpup](https://g35driver.com/forums/images/smilies/biggthumpup.gif)
Thank you.
Yep, I made 282 rwhp stock on a Mustang Dyno which usually read low. After going through various intakes and software combinations I found the right one. I went with a AFE Stage 1 intake, AFE elbow, Turner Motorsport Pulleys, and a custom tune from a great guy in Boston (drove out there just for the tune). I also had 4.10 gears which made a huge difference. They didn't add any power but changed the way the power made it to the wheels. You end up putting about 13% more torque to the wheels and you stay in the powerband most of the time. With that set-up I was making just over 300rwhp and was very happy. I was even chirping tires shifting into 3rd gear. I always did write ups on the mods I had done and posted dyno sheets as well. If you'd like I can post up one of my latest dyno sheets.
I drove a 350z 6mt stock and loved it. The power was not there as much as in the M3 but the car felt pretty good. With that said I would walk away from the 6mt Z with no problems at all, both from a dig and on the highway.
Thanks for the input guys, please keep it coming. I'd love to hear more opinions.
Yep, I made 282 rwhp stock on a Mustang Dyno which usually read low. After going through various intakes and software combinations I found the right one. I went with a AFE Stage 1 intake, AFE elbow, Turner Motorsport Pulleys, and a custom tune from a great guy in Boston (drove out there just for the tune). I also had 4.10 gears which made a huge difference. They didn't add any power but changed the way the power made it to the wheels. You end up putting about 13% more torque to the wheels and you stay in the powerband most of the time. With that set-up I was making just over 300rwhp and was very happy. I was even chirping tires shifting into 3rd gear. I always did write ups on the mods I had done and posted dyno sheets as well. If you'd like I can post up one of my latest dyno sheets.
I drove a 350z 6mt stock and loved it. The power was not there as much as in the M3 but the car felt pretty good. With that said I would walk away from the 6mt Z with no problems at all, both from a dig and on the highway.
Thanks for the input guys, please keep it coming. I'd love to hear more opinions.