Yep, that is a good setup.

the C5 Z06 is an amazing street and track car. It feels more raw than a c6z and it handles like a dream while still giving a comfortable ride on the street. Almost 6 months later, and I'm still amazed at how the LS6 pulls so strong, smooth and effortless. You really have to respect the traction in gears 1 and 2 (keep full or part traction control on). The c6z takes it to another level--traction in gears 1, 2, 3 can get away from u--4th is the only safe "nail-it" and forget it gear. For both c5/c6 zs, good/warm tires on good warm pavement is your friend--cold tires/pavement is your enemy, although the engine loves it. I plan to get an LS7 c6z in about 4 yrs or so...give or take a yr. However, I will not track the car b/c I don't have the deep pockets for mods, replacement motors if they blow due to oil-starvation or valve spring, self-insured accidents due to no track coverage clause.

The C6Z, while it is a bad azz machine (Aluminum frame, dry sump oil system, "sticky" tires, 6 piston front/4 piston rear brakes, 505hp, stiff suspension, external oil cooler, tranny cooler, diff. cooler, brake cooling ducts, low curb weight: 3,100 lbs.) the hardcore track guys with big wallets still spend $40-50k or more on mods. Some spend $5,000-$10,000 dedicated solely to address oil starvation issues exposed on the track even though they have dry sump oil dist. system stock. This is needed, even with the latest factory revision of a 10.5 quart dry sump improvement over the old 8 quart dry sump in the 2006-2008 Z06's.

For example:
ARE stage 2, modified tank and pickup/pan), costs north of $5k including parts, fittings, and labor.

Another 5 grand or more I believe (copied and pasted from a vette owner who did this or will do this):

Canton Racing catelogue: trash the complete stock oil cooler along with all it's tiny little lines. Use a 'u-turn' where the two stock cooler lines go into the block near the stock oil filter.

Then trash the stock oil filter and replace it with the Canton product which will allow you to use their remote in-line oil filter.

Tap into the side of the block behind #1 cylinder, run a large braided steel line from there to the Canton in-line oil filter. Then run another large diameter line to a large capacity oil cooler (should be roughly double the cooling capacity of the stock oil cooler). From the other side of the oil cooler run your last large steel braided line back to where the stock oil filer used to reside.

The idea here is significantly greater oil flow because the ID of the steel braided lines is greater than the OD of the stock lines you trash. In addition the whole stock oil filter system (while just fine for a street car) is not a good design for a race/track car, nevermind the in-line filter is far superior at actually filtering.


Here is some other mods/improvements the hardcore guys spend money on: Whole new motors and transmissions, Dewitts radiators, vented hoods, coilovers, bars, spherical bushings, extra set of wheels, brembos, loads of brake pads and brake fluid, harness, aero pieces, dual coil valve springs, solid exhuast valves, FI setups etc.

No matter the car being used, if you're serious about it there will always be mods. There is no such thing as a 100% track ready factory vehicle.