G35 Sedan V35 2003-06 Discussion about the 1st Generation V35 G35 Sedan

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Old Jun 12, 2011 | 06:10 PM
  #4201  
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Originally Posted by GreenPenguin
Try opening the breather bolt, draining the coolant, and with the beather bolt open, attach a water hose to the fill valve(low pressure) and see if you can't get water or any blockages to come out. If not, you may need to replace the heater core.

The problem you're having where the car gets hot when stopped happened to me in my old Honda. I too saw coolant leaking on top of the radiator and replaced it. Turned out there was a second leak in a pipe under the engine bay and my fans had stopped turning.

Goodluck. I hope this helps
Thnx I was planning on hooking a hose up to the core to flush it and then doing the block as well to clear any blockages when i install my radiator thursday.

Is the thermostat open as it's default position?
Can fluid move freely through the water pump when its off?

I want to flush the block of old coolant prior to my install, but i'm not sure exactly how.... was going to hook up the garden hose to a coolant hose leading into the engine somewhere around the water pump, but i guess i'll see how it all looks when i get under there...
 
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Old Jun 12, 2011 | 06:24 PM
  #4202  
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Originally Posted by Blue Dream
Nope
lies..... i don't rub
 
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Old Jun 12, 2011 | 06:51 PM
  #4203  
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But your offsets are in the 40s
 
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Old Jun 12, 2011 | 07:06 PM
  #4204  
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Originally Posted by thescreensavers
Alright, so how much lower idle and load temps did you see vs stock?
you seem to have done your research - what have you determined (besides the myths)?... in the mean time - read the review in SportZ...

When I have time I'll dig up the 5 year old data that I have... but if you search (which according to your posts you have) you should come across this info without me having to dig it up for you.
 
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Old Jun 12, 2011 | 07:19 PM
  #4205  
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Originally Posted by SN00P
But your offsets are in the 40s
only 1 and its right at 40. for now if i can find a good deal on some v2s i'll be set
 
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Old Jun 12, 2011 | 07:29 PM
  #4206  
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Originally Posted by OCG35
you seem to have done your research - what have you determined (besides the myths)?... in the mean time - read the review in SportZ...

When I have time I'll dig up the 5 year old data that I have... but if you search (which according to your posts you have) you should come across this info without me having to dig it up for you.
I know what the reviews say, I wanted to know about your data, and how it works out in the G.
 
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Old Jun 12, 2011 | 07:50 PM
  #4207  
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From: OC - So Cal
Originally Posted by thescreensavers
I know what the reviews say, I wanted to know about your data, and how it works out in the G.
Originally Posted by OCG35
you seem to have done your research - what have you determined (besides the myths)?... in the mean time - read the review in SportZ...

When I have time I'll dig up the 5 year old data that I have... but if you search (which according to your posts you have) you should come across this info without me having to dig it up for you.
...
 
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Old Jun 12, 2011 | 08:00 PM
  #4208  
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^ cool I already goggled and count not find anything which is why I am asking.... for your data
 
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Old Jun 12, 2011 | 09:21 PM
  #4209  
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i haven't asked a question in a while and its time for to ask ..

within the last 2 weeks my back driver side wheel is making a click sound . i researched clicking from the back and it says rear axle click (TSB)

now i have watched videos and stuff to see if that is exactly what mine sounds like .. in the videos from N-D its makes 2 click/clunk noises and same from N-R ..

on my car when i put in 1st (6MT) from take off it sounds like a bicycle with a playing card hitting the spokes.. click,click,click,click and when i hit the gas a little harder it goes away.. and when i put the car in N and roll to a stop it comes back around 10mph ...

is it the rear axles , hub, bearing , compression rods, end links , coils , breaks ,

need some answers.. also i have another 40,000 miles / 4 years of extended warranty and if in deed it is the axle it will be covered :-)

lets hear your thoughts please
 
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Old Jun 12, 2011 | 09:48 PM
  #4210  
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Originally Posted by Mr.BalloonHands
lies..... i don't rub
how low is your car??
 
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Old Jun 13, 2011 | 10:58 AM
  #4211  
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are front camber arms really necessary? i'm dropped 2 inches in the front and have gotten 2 alignments ever since i lowered my car a yr and a half ago, it's been like 6 months since my last alignment though but the inside of my from tires wear out obnoxiously quick. They told me i didn't really need front camber arms cause they were able to get the camber and toe really close to oem spec in the front. i'm gonna go flat broke at this rate
 
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Old Jun 13, 2011 | 11:21 AM
  #4212  
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From: OC - So Cal
^^^ if you get arms with high positive adjustability, then yes its worth getting... most camber arms have lots of negative ajustability with very little positive - that might be why your shop said don't bother... SPL are quality and have a good amount of positive camber - that's why I got 'em, and would recommend them.
 
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Old Jun 13, 2011 | 11:36 AM
  #4213  
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Originally Posted by OCG35
^^^ if you get arms with high positive adjustability, then yes its worth getting... most camber arms have lots of negative ajustability with very little positive - that might be why your shop said don't bother... SPL are quality and have a good amount of positive camber - that's why I got 'em, and would recommend them.
thanks, front camber arms are pretty pricey though compared to the rear. But i guess still cheaper than changing front tires twice a year
 
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Old Jun 13, 2011 | 11:40 AM
  #4214  
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I didn't get the lug key when I bought my car. Would a nissan dealership have one that would fit or will I have to do the socket trick?

Closest infiniti dealership is ~300 miles away.
 
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Old Jun 13, 2011 | 11:50 AM
  #4215  
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^A dealership probably won't. But somewhere like Discount Tire might. I know they keep a few handy.

What style lock is it? or are they just spline-drive lugs?
 
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