They offer it seperately here

http://www.motordyneengineering.com/...8b9e468223b32a

 

I already have the iso thermal gasket installed. I would just need the throttle body heater and the gasket that goes with it.

Thanks, I think I will try and get just the heater.

 

wtf.

 

Gotcha. They're a great company to deal with. I'm sure they would have no problem selling you just the heater.

 

Are the 03/04 Brembro Brakes set up better than Akebono's? Assuming both were new.

 

From what I've read:..

Track use - brembos due to weight and variety of available parts

Every day use - akebonos because omg sexy

I plan to run akebono with 2 piece rotors

 

What is a good OE replacement for the sedan fuel pump?

 

This really depends on if you have an auto transmission or an 05+ 6MT, reason being the motor will be different. With an auto, the spacer will be beneficial, with the 05+ 6MT, you'll have the revup motor which won't benefit from a spacer alone. You'd want the MREV along with the spacer. As for which spacer - unless you're boosted, they're the same, so IMO stick with the 5/16.


The copper piece is not exactly a heater, it's more of a bypass that allows a bit of heat so your throttle body won't freeze. With snowy conditions, people would want motor heaters, so I wouldn't risk it. Having your throttle body freeze up on you is not a pleasant experience.

 

My understanding is that TB heaters are there only to warm incoming air charge. They do this by warming the TB and Intake Plenum, which in turn transfers heat to the incoming air.
Warmer incoming air helps the engine warm up faster.

I cannot fathom a TB 'freezing'. And if it did, a TB heater would do nothing to help it. If the TB is frozen when you go to start the car, it's frozen, you won't be able to start the car. Which wont allow the coolant to flow, warm up, and consequently warm the TB.

 

What they should do is have the coolant flow to the TB Electronically actuated. Flows when coolant temps are below Operating Range, and shuts flow off when you reach or approach operating range.

This would allow quicker warm up time as well as increased performance from cooler air charge once the engine warms up.

 

Warming the air so it mixes with fuel better is more important in carbureted motors than it is with fuel injection. Technically, the materials newer motors are made of does not require any warm up time, you just need to run the motor long enough to get the lubricants flowing properly to properly protect your motor, transmission, etc...

They might have many reasons to have the coolant run through the throttle body, but you have to keep in mind that auto makers have a lot of liability on their hands, so making sure a part like the throttle body doesn't freeze and remain open on those rare occasions that can happen is a big deal, especially when there's a cheap and easy way of preventing it from happening.

If I remember correctly, it's happened to a few members on here before.

 

So Im gonna get a transmission flush very soon to hopefully fix my problem. My problem is that shifting into 1st, 2nd and 3rd is pretty rough. Im hoping its not the synchronizers. I did some research and people who experienced the same issue as me said they replaced their transmission fluid with GM Synchromesh Friction Modified Transmission Fluid and it fixed their problem. However, I called inifniti today and they said that i have to use the oem fluid. They said any other fluid will damage my gearbox.. Is this true?

 

Synchromesh works great on Honda transmissions, not sure how great it will work with the G. If it is the synchros, most likely the gears will have been ground down a bit by now as well.

 

More important with a carb, perhaps, but that's only because you couldn't adjust fuelling, etc at cold idle differently from operating temp idle really. this meant the engine would get to operating temp slower than a conventional engine with EFI.

EFI allows different fuelling for different temps obviously, so the engine can warm faster than it could before.

Cold start and idle are the #1 killers of engines. This is when the most wear occurs in traditional engines. OEM's go to great lengths to keep the engine OUT of those situations as much as possible. This means any means possible to get that engine up to operating temperature as fast as possible. The heated TB is one of the employed methods.

Not to say that potential for freezing TB's isn't there, and isn't part of the purpose. My focus is more on engine wear and cold-idling conditions though. In very cold climates where Block heaters are used, these coolant lines are most effective for both purposes, as well as helping cold-starts.

 

The lights for the mileage is it a bulb or led board? if its a bulb what size is it.