Hey guys, I have a 2005 g35 sedan with 80,000 miles and I've been having this clunking sound coming from the passenger rear I think. I hear it every time I hit a bump in the road and its more noticeable at lower speeds then highway. It sounds like a hollow springy clunk, I have already replaced the shocks and struts and the rear endlinks but the sound is still there. What else could be causing this?

 

Has anyone been in traffic riding slow and had there car kinda rock as it rolls. It looks like my driver side tire moves like it is out of balance or the rim is bent. Stock wheels lowered sedan, any ideas

 

You need new banjo bolts Chris if you're not going to get SS lines

 

^ thanks for that confirmation Chris. I had I feeling about that. Thank god I didn't try to install it and find out on the spot.

I suppose I'll call Z1Motorsports to see if I can buy the banjo bolts from them.

Also, since these calipers have two bleeders, which one do I bleed first upon install? Inner or outer first?

 

Once in a blue moon my car has a very light jerk/vibration as I'm rolling in slow traffic, I'm pretty sure it's coming from the engine. Is that what you're refering to?

 

No problem Chris. I do recommend buying the SS lines though if you have the funds. You want to bleed from the inside out.

I'm not sure if you know the sequence but start with the farthest caliper and work your way towards the master cylinder.

In this order (looking at the back of the car)
Right Rear
Left Rear
Right Front
Left Front

Pump pump hold

PM me if you have more questions. I don't check Driver that often but I still get emails about PMs

 

I'd get them as a precaution, but a heads up, I didn't, and I have no issues at all. Use a copper washer on either side of the banjo fitting and shake and bake.

I will be upgrading to SS lines at some juncture, just keep forgetting about it.

 

I hear even with copper washers it still didn't seal. Some people had to double up washers on both sides of the bolt. So i'd rather get the shorter ones. I may get SS lines eventually, but sticking with the OEM lines for now.

@Chris - I've changed pads and rotors, but never swapped calipers, but thanks to the power of youtube it doesn't look that bad. I just have to be careful to not run the master dry I guess.

 

Well. For anyone looking, Z1 Motorsports has the shorter banjo bolts for $2 each, you need four. So if my elementary math is correct, that's $8. Total shipped for me was $17+change, and you have to call in and order through card over the phone. There's no other option besides that. I feel like I got jipped on the shipping but whatever.

 

Does anyone think its a bad idea to paint the AC lines? I was wanting to experiment painting the lines with rattle can but not sure how it would hold up with the condensation.

 

I'd say go for it. Worst that can happen is it peels and you just use a solvent to remove the paint.

It might be different from coupes to sedans, I don't know. When I went to install an AKE kit before on a coupe I ran into the same issue but luckily, he had bought the SS lines and it came with the new bolts.

It's not hard Chris. Breaking loose the rear caliper bolts is the hardest. The fronts are easy.

 

Where can I find black mesh to put behind a bumper opening I can't find anything big enough at home depot to cover the kurookie opening, well except the metal chicken wire

 

Thanks for the heads up Chris, I guess I'll take some PB Blaster to those rear bolts few days before I go and take them out. Just waiting on my order from adams rotors to get finished and arrive and I'll be ready to install these!

 

No prob Chris.
It's not that there's usually stuck, it's just you only have so much room to turn the ratchet's

 

hope you enjoy them!