any AWD guys replaced their compression rod bushings?
#31
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 2,330
Likes: 62
From: Chicago
Turtle did you ever replace your Compression rod bushings?
I have pretty much the exact noise as this post below..
https://g35driver.com/forums/brakes-...eo-inside.html
He changed out the bushing and still has the noise, I believe if your ball joint is shot too the only fix is to completely replace the whole compression rod... So I am going to take a closer look at my ball joints before I make the purchase...
I have pretty much the exact noise as this post below..
https://g35driver.com/forums/brakes-...eo-inside.html
He changed out the bushing and still has the noise, I believe if your ball joint is shot too the only fix is to completely replace the whole compression rod... So I am going to take a closer look at my ball joints before I make the purchase...
They inspected my bushings mainly and told me my driver's is showing signs of cracking but nothing serious. Told me its best to come back when its a little more worst. $500 ballpark to do one arm from them.... $350 just doing the bushing.
Not exactly the same but close enough, this would be a 350z, its one unit there.
Dumb question, but I have an extended warranty from my dealership and it says bushings are covered under the warranty. With this creaking noise, would I be able to let my dealership's warranty handle it or would they try to say it's a wear and tear issue and leave it up to me to pay the full price for it?
If its like a grey area... then it would depend on your relationship with that dealership. I know when they handed me the pamplet on extended warranties, it said it would not cover BUTTONS! like radio buttons, my many concern was the navi ****. Also doesn't cover interior squeaks and rattles.
#32
Welp, I finally took my car in to a local shop.. Bought the bushing online for like $25 and the labor was $135. The front driver side bushing was definitely shot it had visible tears when we applied force to the arm with a crobar.
Turns out that my coilover was also loose, the main rod that has the dampening setting has a 17mm bolt at the top of the strut. We tightened this down as well and now the car is just like new!
I was very impressed with this shop and it was my first time going there, if you need the info I can PM it to you..
Turns out that my coilover was also loose, the main rod that has the dampening setting has a 17mm bolt at the top of the strut. We tightened this down as well and now the car is just like new!
I was very impressed with this shop and it was my first time going there, if you need the info I can PM it to you..
#34
#35
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 2,330
Likes: 62
From: Chicago
thats pretty dangerous! Pretty poor on the megan to not loctite and secure that bolt down!!!! I never thought to check it because thats one of those things that SHOULD be done at the factory. I should go check mines out.
#36
^^ Agreed!!
I even found a disclaimer on thier site:
"NOTE: Remember to torque the top 17mm nut at the top of all McPherson struts to 40-60ft/lbs with properly calibrated torque wrench. Improper torque specification can cause the assembly to come loose and cause symptomatic clunking noise, or may damage the threads on the shock shaft when overtorqued. When tightening the 12mm top nuts included with the coil-overs, torque them only to 24-34ft/lbs. With a 14mm nut, torque it to 33-42ft/lbs. The "crash bolts/eccentric bolts" holding the lower steel bracket onto the knuckle also needs specific torque specs, often upwards of 60-80ft/lbs. You will need to follow the OEM torque specifications for these bolts. Your local dealership should have these torque specifications for your particular vehicle. Torque specifications for these bolts are critical to the safe operation of your coil-overs on you vehicle. We recommend you double check these torque specs with the vehicle manufacturer. Please replace the bolts with brand new OEM hardware once torqued down to specification. Due to the nature of these bolts and the excessive loads it experiences, these bolts will stretch after repeated use, rendering the possibility of hardware failure. These are one-time-use only bolts. Failure to do so will void certain warranty applicability."
Nice, huh...
I even found a disclaimer on thier site:
"NOTE: Remember to torque the top 17mm nut at the top of all McPherson struts to 40-60ft/lbs with properly calibrated torque wrench. Improper torque specification can cause the assembly to come loose and cause symptomatic clunking noise, or may damage the threads on the shock shaft when overtorqued. When tightening the 12mm top nuts included with the coil-overs, torque them only to 24-34ft/lbs. With a 14mm nut, torque it to 33-42ft/lbs. The "crash bolts/eccentric bolts" holding the lower steel bracket onto the knuckle also needs specific torque specs, often upwards of 60-80ft/lbs. You will need to follow the OEM torque specifications for these bolts. Your local dealership should have these torque specifications for your particular vehicle. Torque specifications for these bolts are critical to the safe operation of your coil-overs on you vehicle. We recommend you double check these torque specs with the vehicle manufacturer. Please replace the bolts with brand new OEM hardware once torqued down to specification. Due to the nature of these bolts and the excessive loads it experiences, these bolts will stretch after repeated use, rendering the possibility of hardware failure. These are one-time-use only bolts. Failure to do so will void certain warranty applicability."
Nice, huh...
#37
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 2,330
Likes: 62
From: Chicago
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