My brakes have about 6-7,000 miles on them and they feel slightly warped when I brake. The pads are still pretty thick. I never really brake hard except when the light turns red quickly....
My e46 brakes never warped even after slamming them on as hard as I could. Same story with my Tundra and I even tow with it. After 40,000 miles the brakes are still not warped. I had a Pilot and I slammed them on so hard the ABS system came on when the road was dry and even after 60k the brakes were fine. Why are my brakes ruined after only 6k miles?

 

Did you turn your rotors when you swapped your pads or are they new. Are they cheap pads and rotors?

 

It is extremely rare that rotors 'warp' unless they are complete garbage or were installed incorrectly. It's much more likely due to incorrect or non-existent bedding-in process. Google "brake bedding" for your particular brand and model of pads/rotors. For example, here's the procedure for the Wagner Thermoquiets on my car:

From page 15, Federal Mogul (Wagner) Troubleshooting guide:

"Disc Pad and Brake Shoe Burnish Procedure
An effective burnish cycle to seat the friction materials into the opposing rotor and drum surfaces requires approximately 200 stops. The 200 stops is consistent with the burnish procedure in the FMVSS 105. As a practical matter for installers, 200 stops probably will not happen since few installers have all day to make that number of stops. Therefore, we recommend the following burnish procedure:
• Make approximately 20 complete stops from 30-mph or 20 “slow downs” from 50-mph to 20-mph with light to moderate pedal pressure
• NO PANIC STOPS
• Allow at least 30 seconds between brake applications for the brake pads or shoes to cool down
• No high speed stops and/or braking under heavy loads that could
result in glazed or otherwise damaged linings Using these guidelines, the friction materials will have conformed to the surface of the rotors and drums for improved stopping performance. In addition, the thermal conditioning of the friction materials during this process will increase the stability of braking effectiveness over a greater range of temperatures compared to when they were first installed."

 

I'm not sure what kind of brakes they are since the P.O. had them installed but the pads and rotors were new all around. The rotors still look new with barely any scoring and like I said, the pads are still pretty thick. It seems that the pads are going to outlast the rotors.

 

I had the same issues when i installed my new rotors and pads. On the 03 to 05 they made these brakes to small for these cars specially when you have big wheel and drive very aggressive like i do. Thats why i upgraded to the 06 sedan brakes that twin piston in the front with bigger rotors in front and in the rear.

 

Fixed for you.

 

Sounds to me like improper bedding.

When I had my 5.5gen Maxima (notorious for wobble in the rotors), I followed Stop-Tech's bed-in procedure , found here.

With a decent set of ceramic pads, and a set of Centric slotted rotors, I had no issues for the last 25k I owned the car.

When brakes are bedded properly the first time, you'll notice that the shiny, metal surface of the rotor will have a light layer of transparent, grey material on it. This is the brake pad material that's been transferred over to the rotor. If there are any high spots, or areas where the grey material looks heavier, you're doomed to the infamous rotor wobble eventually.

 

Hey i have an 03 big wheels and drive aggressive. On the hiway i brake going 50 and 60 and my car shakes violently, think my brakes are warped, Are the 06 sedans brakes a direct swap?

 

yes is a direct swap, you need calipers with the brakets, rotors, pads..

 

05 brakes here, same shuddering OEM rotors OEM pads, It is not a rotor issue, it appears The Pads transfer material to the rotors and then cool causing the vibrations.

Getting the rotors up to temp cleans the rotors and helps for a while but then it comes back again. I figure the OEM pads are to blame.

I got new Pads at 32k when I bought my car, rotors where turned at 45k I am at 80k now and just live with it until my pads go so I can replace them all and try a different pad/rotor setup.

Just slowing to a light and holding the brake can cause this issue, its the only car I have driven that has this issue and its odd.

 

Stuff like this make me want to ditch my plans of getting the stoptech stage 2 brake kit for brembos.

 

^That's what I did. I'm very happy with my Brembos. If you look around this forum or on ebay like I did you may find a clean set with brake lines and the mounting bolts.