Brakes Replacement
Brakes Replacement
I been searching around the forums and seen a few mixed and messy brake threads. Well here we go, I have an 06 G35x need pads and Rotors just want to hear what you guys are using and your reviews ... It's my daily driver so Im not sure what route to take for rotors and pads and which brand.
Whatever speeds up must slow down ... Sometimes we need to a little quicker n in style lol
Whatever speeds up must slow down ... Sometimes we need to a little quicker n in style lol
I found the OEM rotors "warped" easily, so my latest brake change I went with Centric Rotors that were advertised on the forum
I stuck with OEM pads. They work well, stop great, have great cold grabbing power and most importantly to me....Silent
I stuck with OEM pads. They work well, stop great, have great cold grabbing power and most importantly to me....Silent
There have been many debates about the advantages/disadvantages of the drilled rotors. My personal opinion, from what I have read, is to stick to the slotted rotors, as the drilled rotors have no real advantage and potentially can lead to cracks in the rotors, especially in colder climates.
As far as brake pads, for daily use I would go with a mild metallic pad. Ceramic pads are overkill for daily and do not have good bite when cold, and full metallic have a reputation for lots of dust and killing rotors. OEM pads may not be the most glamorous, but they work damn good.
With that said, I have drilled + slotted front rotors on my fronts and stock rotors in the back, paired with stoptech pads. I daily drive in heavy traffic everyday and no complaints about the brakes.
As far as brake pads, for daily use I would go with a mild metallic pad. Ceramic pads are overkill for daily and do not have good bite when cold, and full metallic have a reputation for lots of dust and killing rotors. OEM pads may not be the most glamorous, but they work damn good.
With that said, I have drilled + slotted front rotors on my fronts and stock rotors in the back, paired with stoptech pads. I daily drive in heavy traffic everyday and no complaints about the brakes.
Contact r1concepts. They will give you a better deal than advertised on their site. They sell centric rotors and Oem pads. I believe I paid $200 shipped for all four corners, plain rotors and stoptech pads.
Joined: Mar 2009
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G35 sedan w/ too much money in mods
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You're going to receive as many opinions as there are members. 
So here's mine, DBA rotors slotted/drilled or both. HAWK HPS pads, stopping ability like OE and close to zero dust. Both available on our MARKETPLACE under vendor brakes. If you decide on HAWK pads you'll get 30% better stopping ability by doing the "Bed In" process, fun and takes 15 minutes....SEARCH!
Gary
So here's mine, DBA rotors slotted/drilled or both. HAWK HPS pads, stopping ability like OE and close to zero dust. Both available on our MARKETPLACE under vendor brakes. If you decide on HAWK pads you'll get 30% better stopping ability by doing the "Bed In" process, fun and takes 15 minutes....SEARCH!Gary
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Joined: Jul 2005
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http://papers.sae.org/2006-01-0691/
Basically, no difference in mild breaking, no difference in wet braking, better heat resistance in harder braking, 25-50% less pad life.
My preference would be for blanks. Those holes and slots do make the rotors more likely to crack. But in the end, do what you want.
What are you looking for out of your brakes? do you see snow? do you track? how much do you care about dust? there's a lot of options out there partially because people want different things out of their brakes.
I don't think anyone has released any data on slotted rotors, but here is a good sae paper on crossdrilled rotors. You can find the summaries and maybe a pdf of the paper by googling the title.
http://papers.sae.org/2006-01-0691/
Basically, no difference in mild breaking, no difference in wet braking, better heat resistance in harder braking, 25-50% less pad life.
My preference would be for blanks. Those holes and slots do make the rotors more likely to crack. But in the end, do what you want.
What are you looking for out of your brakes? do you see snow? do you track? how much do you care about dust? there's a lot of options out there partially because people want different things out of their brakes.
http://papers.sae.org/2006-01-0691/
Basically, no difference in mild breaking, no difference in wet braking, better heat resistance in harder braking, 25-50% less pad life.
My preference would be for blanks. Those holes and slots do make the rotors more likely to crack. But in the end, do what you want.
What are you looking for out of your brakes? do you see snow? do you track? how much do you care about dust? there's a lot of options out there partially because people want different things out of their brakes.
I don't think anyone has released any data on slotted rotors, but here is a good sae paper on crossdrilled rotors. You can find the summaries and maybe a pdf of the paper by googling the title.
http://papers.sae.org/2006-01-0691/
Basically, no difference in mild breaking, no difference in wet braking, better heat resistance in harder braking, 25-50% less pad life.
http://papers.sae.org/2006-01-0691/
Basically, no difference in mild breaking, no difference in wet braking, better heat resistance in harder braking, 25-50% less pad life.
#1) Most brake systems are an engineered system meaning the parts picked and used were all designed to work together. So most vehicles with cross-drilled rotors from the manufacturer tend to be "sport" type braking systems that feature a larger than typical diameter (with relationship to vehicle weight) and/or may use pads that offgas under hard braking conditions. They can afford to sacrifice rotor mass by drilling the holes since the rotors are usually so massive anyway
#2) The process of which the holes are "drilled" into the rotor is in fact not a drilling process, but cast with them in place as to relieve stresses. In other words, the rotor was engineered to have those holes there, so special care was made to position the holes in locations that do not interfere with the internal cooling vanes and other techniques to releive stress and prevent cracking.
I always say this but it's true. Slapping a set of cross-drilled Ebay rotors on a passenger car will not give the same braking performance as a Porsche.
I've spent time in my youth AutoXing and Road-Racing. Vast majority of the cars out there ran big heavy solid blank rotors.
Now, for your average street driven cruiser....i'll take a set of zinc-washed X-drilled rotors. It's all about what you want to do with your car.
I believe that paper was written prior to GM's introduction to a cross-drilled brake option on the Corvette. I beleive GM discovered top end braking (from 150MPH down to 100MPH) improved, but at normal speeds there was no significant difference. Good read, but several points to keep in mind.
#1) Most brake systems are an engineered system meaning the parts picked and used were all designed to work together. So most vehicles with cross-drilled rotors from the manufacturer tend to be "sport" type braking systems that feature a larger than typical diameter (with relationship to vehicle weight) and/or may use pads that offgas under hard braking conditions. They can afford to sacrifice rotor mass by drilling the holes since the rotors are usually so massive anyway
#2) The process of which the holes are "drilled" into the rotor is in fact not a drilling process, but cast with them in place as to relieve stresses. In other words, the rotor was engineered to have those holes there, so special care was made to position the holes in locations that do not interfere with the internal cooling vanes and other techniques to releive stress and prevent cracking.
I always say this but it's true. Slapping a set of cross-drilled Ebay rotors on a passenger car will not give the same braking performance as a Porsche.
I've spent time in my youth AutoXing and Road-Racing. Vast majority of the cars out there ran big heavy solid blank rotors.
Now, for your average street driven cruiser....i'll take a set of zinc-washed X-drilled rotors. It's all about what you want to do with your car.
#1) Most brake systems are an engineered system meaning the parts picked and used were all designed to work together. So most vehicles with cross-drilled rotors from the manufacturer tend to be "sport" type braking systems that feature a larger than typical diameter (with relationship to vehicle weight) and/or may use pads that offgas under hard braking conditions. They can afford to sacrifice rotor mass by drilling the holes since the rotors are usually so massive anyway
#2) The process of which the holes are "drilled" into the rotor is in fact not a drilling process, but cast with them in place as to relieve stresses. In other words, the rotor was engineered to have those holes there, so special care was made to position the holes in locations that do not interfere with the internal cooling vanes and other techniques to releive stress and prevent cracking.
I always say this but it's true. Slapping a set of cross-drilled Ebay rotors on a passenger car will not give the same braking performance as a Porsche.
I've spent time in my youth AutoXing and Road-Racing. Vast majority of the cars out there ran big heavy solid blank rotors.
Now, for your average street driven cruiser....i'll take a set of zinc-washed X-drilled rotors. It's all about what you want to do with your car.
agreed
third set of pads on my r1 premium rotors, stoptech always. I rotated the rotors and after 25k they still feel like new!!! They've saved my *** and my life a few times now.
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