Fenders to rusty to roll what should I do?
#1
Fenders to rusty to roll what should I do?
so Ive been wanting to run bigger wheels on my g but unfortunately my rear fenders are too rusty to roll 😪.I have been told by every person who roll fenders that my fender wells are to rusty to roll and it’ll crack if they even attempt it.i called up shops today to see how much it’ll be to repair the rust but they quoted me ridiculous prices because they have to cut my fenders and add a new one along with paint.im frustrated and want a better fitment but knowing I can’t roll my fenders is making me want to sell my car and get a car with a better body 😢 I unfortunately didn’t notice the rust spots when I bought the car I also got a rust patch on my door but that doesn’t bother me since I could replace it.anyways can any of you guys help me out? Sorry for the long explanation
#2
Option A) Drive car until it rusts out, then partout
Option B) Hide rust (pack bondo over rust holes, sand flat, paint with rattle cans), sell car to some sucker, block their number, and make sure they don't know where you live.
Option C) Repair yourself with a lot of time and effort
Option D) Sell car as is for much less than it's worth otherwise
My car is also rusted out in the same locations, I was quoted $1700 from a body shop to repair. This weekend I'm going to be attempting to fix it. Planning on taking lots of pictures of the process and posting them here.
Have you ever taken off your side skirts? You might be surprised at what's hiding under those, and not in a good way. Here's what mine looked like before I started grinding.
Option B) Hide rust (pack bondo over rust holes, sand flat, paint with rattle cans), sell car to some sucker, block their number, and make sure they don't know where you live.
Option C) Repair yourself with a lot of time and effort
Option D) Sell car as is for much less than it's worth otherwise
My car is also rusted out in the same locations, I was quoted $1700 from a body shop to repair. This weekend I'm going to be attempting to fix it. Planning on taking lots of pictures of the process and posting them here.
Have you ever taken off your side skirts? You might be surprised at what's hiding under those, and not in a good way. Here's what mine looked like before I started grinding.
Last edited by cswlightning; 09-20-2018 at 10:35 PM.
#4
Option A) Drive car until it rusts out
Option B) Repair rust cheaply, sell car to some sucker
Option C) Repair yourself with a lot of time and effort
Option D) Sell car for very little
My car is also rusted out in the same locations, I was quoted $1700 from a body shop. This weekend I'm going to be attempting to fix it. Planning on taking lots of pictures of the process and posting them here.
Have you ever taken off your side skirts? You might be surprised at what's hiding under those, and not in a good way.
Option B) Repair rust cheaply, sell car to some sucker
Option C) Repair yourself with a lot of time and effort
Option D) Sell car for very little
My car is also rusted out in the same locations, I was quoted $1700 from a body shop. This weekend I'm going to be attempting to fix it. Planning on taking lots of pictures of the process and posting them here.
Have you ever taken off your side skirts? You might be surprised at what's hiding under those, and not in a good way.
#6
^^^ That's the smartest thing to do. Rust never really stops but after all the work I've put into my car there's no way I'm getting rid of it. I figure if I fix it myself it'll look good for another 4 or 5 years, and by then I'll have another daily and won't have a problem with putting on crazy fender flares and chopping the thing up to hide the rust damage if that's what needs to happen.
#8
I've already stopped all the potentially structural rust. Here's what that hole looks like now:
Black is rust converter, green is Eastwood internal frame coating. All metal inside and out is completely 100% solid now.
Inside the panel is 100% clean now
I've had it covered up in duct tape to keep water out, and it hasn't changed in months. I consider my G "structurally" rust free but the rear quarter panels are still falling apart around the wheel wells which I'm going to chop out this weekend. Yes, buying a clean car would be a whole lot less work, but this is what I've got, it's reliable, and its sorted.
This is most of the cancer that's left. That dripping stuff is rust prevention gel I've been injecting into it to slow it down.
Black is rust converter, green is Eastwood internal frame coating. All metal inside and out is completely 100% solid now.
Inside the panel is 100% clean now
I've had it covered up in duct tape to keep water out, and it hasn't changed in months. I consider my G "structurally" rust free but the rear quarter panels are still falling apart around the wheel wells which I'm going to chop out this weekend. Yes, buying a clean car would be a whole lot less work, but this is what I've got, it's reliable, and its sorted.
This is most of the cancer that's left. That dripping stuff is rust prevention gel I've been injecting into it to slow it down.
Last edited by cswlightning; 09-20-2018 at 10:54 PM.
#9
I've already stopped all the potentially structural rust. Here's what that hole looks like now:
Black is rust converter, green is Eastwood internal frame coating. All metal inside and out is completely 100% solid now.
Inside the panel is 100% clean now
I've had it covered up in duct tape to keep water out, and it hasn't changed in months. I consider my G "structurally" rust free but the rear quarter panels are still falling apart around the wheel wells which I'm going to chop out this weekend. Yes, buying a clean car would be a whole lot less work, but this is what I've got, it's reliable, and its sorted.
This is most of the cancer that's left.
Black is rust converter, green is Eastwood internal frame coating. All metal inside and out is completely 100% solid now.
Inside the panel is 100% clean now
I've had it covered up in duct tape to keep water out, and it hasn't changed in months. I consider my G "structurally" rust free but the rear quarter panels are still falling apart around the wheel wells which I'm going to chop out this weekend. Yes, buying a clean car would be a whole lot less work, but this is what I've got, it's reliable, and its sorted.
This is most of the cancer that's left.
#10
Encapsulating the rust is a must. You have to wonder, did the salt water get in there by first deteriorating the surface, a manufacturers placed hole or a seam that's not sealed and affecting it in a similar way to an exhaust rusting from within.
So...r u going to weld in new metal or go with fiberglass?
So...r u going to weld in new metal or go with fiberglass?
The following users liked this post:
cleric670 (09-21-2018)
#11
Who, me? I'm going to just chop out all the rust and use fiberglass, mesh, and Bondo to seal up the holes, and encapsulate any hidden rust in crevices using rust converter and fluid film (The eastwood internal coating worked great but unfortunately I didn't order any and this weekend is my one chance to do the work before cold temperatures set in and painting is a non-option)
I don't have the skill to weld on patch panels and as you can probably tell my theme is "low cost, high effort" so of course I'm not going to hire anyone to fix it.
Ichiglo, I'm commenting in here because I figure you'd be interested in what it takes to stop the rust on a budget.
I don't have the skill to weld on patch panels and as you can probably tell my theme is "low cost, high effort" so of course I'm not going to hire anyone to fix it.
Ichiglo, I'm commenting in here because I figure you'd be interested in what it takes to stop the rust on a budget.
Last edited by cswlightning; 09-20-2018 at 11:27 PM.
#12
Who, me? I'm going to just chop out all the rust and use fiberglass, mesh, and Bondo to seal up the holes, and encapsulate any hidden rust in crevices using rust converter and fluid film (The eastwood internal coating worked great but unfortunately I didn't order any and this weekend is my one chance to do the work before cold temperatures set in and painting is a non-option)
I don't have the skill to weld on patch panels and as you can probably tell my theme is "low cost, high effort" so of course I'm not going to hire anyone to fix it.
Ichiglo, I'm commenting in here because I figure you'd be interested in what it takes to stop the rust on a budget.
I don't have the skill to weld on patch panels and as you can probably tell my theme is "low cost, high effort" so of course I'm not going to hire anyone to fix it.
Ichiglo, I'm commenting in here because I figure you'd be interested in what it takes to stop the rust on a budget.
#13
Giant hole... ugly but completely sealed behind layers of fiberglass. Now covered in paint and soaked in fluid film.
Rust cut out with grinder, inside of panels run through with sandpaper, cleaned and painted with converter to get as much as possible.
nearly finished bondo work before primer and temporary coating
How she sits (almost) ready for the daily winter commute. Those headlights are GONE
It was cold out by the time I finished the repair so I just covered it all up in primer followed by black Plastidip for the winter.
Come spring I'm going to peel it off, see how the repair is doing and touch up if needed, and send it to somebody to get the final finish looking decent before liquid dipping my whole car to make future repairs to the area much less costly.
Last edited by cswlightning; 01-01-2019 at 05:44 PM.
The following users liked this post:
cleric670 (01-01-2019)
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