The only time I can get consistent readings is after a good, long drive (like highway driving for 30+ minutes) and you have the pleasure of squeezing your hand into the spot where the dipstick is and not get burned too badly ! I don't know what year Infiniti added it, by the dipstick in my '08 has cold level on one side and hot level on the opposite side. I ignore the cold side anyway. As cleric said, you check it with the engine running, in PARK, and ideally when HOT. Also, I do the same thing with the engine oil dipstick - pull it out, wipe it clean, and set it on a paper towel for 30 seconds or so. This allows any fluid that was drug up the dipstick when you pulled it out to hopefully flow back down. Now insert it fairly quickly and smoothly and remove. Quickly lay it flat so the fluid doesn't flow lower (it's not thick but not so thin that that should be a problem though).

On these model years, does it have an L-shaped bracket for a fastener that holds the dipstick securely in ? If so, on mine you rotate that bracket 180º from the normal position when you insert it for checking the level. I think this is supposed to control the depth that it's inserted but on mine, it makes no difference (??).

How much came out ? If 4 came out and you put 4 back in, it's certainly no worse than it was before you started. Plus, you have (some) fresh fluid in there.

 

I agree no flushing an older tranny... DON'T DO IT!

 

2006 G35 Coupe with Automatic Transmission
Mileage is 152,000

NOTE: I don't know whether the previous 5 owners ever changed the fluid or flushed the transmission.

I'm going to be replacing my radiator with a Denso aftermarket radiator, because the original radiator appears to have cracked. There were no issues with the coolant hoses, and fluid was sprayed onto the engine block.

I've learned that the ATF runs through the radiator for cooling. So I'm going to have to disconnect to lines (in and out I suppose) at the bottom of the radiator, and fluid will undoubtedly escape.

A YouTuber, Danny Johnson's Garage, who was showing how to replace the radiator went ahead and drained 5 quarts from his transmission during the process and replaced it with the latest Nissan fluid (he said the name changed a few years ago, but the new stuff will work). LINK HERE:
Based on the earlier posts, and drain and fill should be okay, correct? I drain the fluid, reinstall the plug, and fill through the dipstick (located near the coolant bleed valve).

Transmissions give me the heeby-jeebies, so I'd appreciate any feedback before I start messing with this $$$ component.

Thanks gents.

 

Yep that's how it's done, just drain/fill the tranny, measure out how much came out and add that same volume back through the dipstick. Nissan Matic S fluid supersedes the older Matic J that is listed in the service manual.

Go for a drive to warm the tranny then check the level at the dipstick with the engine running and the car in park. You will need to wipe off the fluid and recheck the dipstick several times before you get a clean reading because fluid sloshes up the dipstick tube.

These trannies are really easy to work on, nothing to be afraid of. Might get a new crush washer for the drain plug, it's like $3 at Nissan.

 

Also, there's no serviceable filter so you aren't taking the pan off.

 

Thanks Cleric.

I removed the transmission coolant lines at the bottom of the radiator, and the fluid was not the bright fresh sparkly red fluid I was hoping for. Safe to say that the fluid has never been changed. Again, 151,000 miles or so.

I collected the fluid in a glass jar, and I'll upload a photo for the members so they can compare/contrast.

I still plan on the drain-and-fill procedure, which will be about 5 quarts based on the video I linked to above. I plan on saving the old fluid in a pristine container and covering it with saran wrap to prevent air from mixing in. If the new mix causes slippage, can't I take out 5 quarts and pour the old stuff back in? It would be a shame, because my dreams of a Million Mile car would be shattered.

My preference is to have the entire transmission filled with new fluid, but I've read the warnings above . . . Sounds like older transmissions that have not been properly serviced need the crappy sludge to work properly. Agree?

 

No absolutely disagree, that's a myth that has been passed on through the generations similar to the myth of "once you switch to synthetic oil you can't switch back to conventional because it leaves a layer of molecules on the metal".

Read this thread where I explain how the myth started and the consequences of ignorance.

https://g35driver.com/forums/g35-sed...ml#post7123536

As long as you use Matic-J or S then you're using the correct friction modifiers, it's completely possible that your shifting WILL feel a little looser because with 150k worth of clutch disc particulates floating around in the fluid it's definitely causing a change in the friction coefficient of the fluid. However you're just bringing the fluid more in line with the manufacturers specification by changing it out.

Do a drain/fill, then every oil change (or every other if you don't want the extra work load/cost) do another drain/fill if you want. 4 total drain/fill will basically get you back in spec but you can space those out over a year (or more) if you want.

Make sure to do a short drive to warm the tranny then actually check fluid level with the dipstick after every drain/fill to ensure you're at the correct fluid level.