Hello everyone I'm looking at buying a used 03 or up g35 automatic as a daily driver but i have some questions that i hope some of you could answer.

How are they on gas, do they need premuim or can i use midgrade? Do i need to take it to a certified dealer for maintenance or can i do most of it myself with common tools, are parts expensive? Are there any issues that early models have that i should know?

This might sound like a lot or if other people have asked these questions I'm sorry to be another person asking agian, im just looking at getting a nice car that i could use a a daily and would like to more about what comes with these cars that i should know.

 

They're solid when maintained, like most vehicles.

Cam/crank sensors typically fail at around 100k miles, only use Genuine Nissan OEM or Hitachi sensors on the V35 chassis (DE engine). Denso on the V36 chassis (HR engine).

It's a sports car suspension so there are more moving parts to replace when things start to fail, much more expensive than your budget commuter Macpherson strut front suspension.

Personally I would avoid 2003-2004.5 sedan, just make sure it has DUAL ELECTRIC FANS on the radiator, stay away from the 1 electric 1 mechanical fan versions.

Premium gas is recommended, but the car will run on anything, it's going to pull timing WOT on lesser fuel though.

There's nothing you can't fix with regular mechanics tools, the only specialty tools I use really are a couple things that have to do with a deeper dive into the powertrain, a ring gear stopper for the VQ, stuff like that.

Parts are readily available and don't cost anymore than any other Japanese vehicle (a little more than an American vehicle but still 1/4 the price of German parts).

You will have to do maintenance, these things are 15+ years old at this point and most are pushing 150k miles or more.

The 2007-2008 sedan (V36 chassis) has the HR engine, just make sure it's not throwing a P0011 or P0021 check engine code, they're prone to blowing galley gaskets which are located behind the timing chain and if you're paying shop rates for labor it's an expensive fix. If you're doing it yourself it's just a time consumer.

The DE usually drinks oil, just make sure you're checking it regularly (at least twice a month on a cold engine before it's been started) and topping it off as needed. They sourced piston rings from the lowest bigger, not a huge deal as long as you're keeping the oil topped off.

The stock rubber rear differential bushing WILL need to be replaced with a polyurethane one unless it's already been done. That was the only real component that was notorious for failing, everything else is pretty solid.

 

Try to find one with as few previous owners as possible and a clean CarFax. A car that's been through several owners likely has had a lot of issues.

 

Agreed, I bought mine last year 1 owner only!

 

Ive been using midgrade fuel in my car for the past few months and havent had any issues. I did get pinging on 87 though twice when I got on the pedal real hard.