Any 05AT owners get resolution for the rough 2->3 shift?
#31
#32
#34
I get a very bad vibration on 2-3 shifts when under "moderate" acceleration. Sometimes its worse.
I DID notice it was almost gone after I replaced my plugs and did an ECU reset, but 300 miles later it's creeping back. Not sure what effect it had. I had a mechanic in my car, he thinks its a bad 2-3 shift sensor??? Im almost out of my extended warranty. Im going to wait another 600 or so miles until it gets bad again to bring it in.... A new tranny at 95,000 will be nice
I DID notice it was almost gone after I replaced my plugs and did an ECU reset, but 300 miles later it's creeping back. Not sure what effect it had. I had a mechanic in my car, he thinks its a bad 2-3 shift sensor??? Im almost out of my extended warranty. Im going to wait another 600 or so miles until it gets bad again to bring it in.... A new tranny at 95,000 will be nice
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#36
#38
2>3 hard shift is normal. Only way to fix it is to rebuild the transmission. I wouldn't worry about it.
The 2-3 harsh shift is caused by
apply timing of the high and lowreverse
clutch, not the front band.
Here’s why: The front band is holding
in first and second, but is ineffective. In
third gear, it’s part of the applied state.
The servo never loses pressure, so if
the band were slipping it would cause a
spin-up or neutral, not a flare.
The high and low-reverse clutch
applies and the forward brake releases
on the 2-3 shift. The timing between
these two shift components is critical.
The high and low-reverse clutch drum
is splined to the direct clutch and is
connected to the rear planetary. The forward
brake is located in the back of the
transmission and is splined to the case
The problem is the clearance specifications,
and there are plenty of them
out there: We found at least three and
they were all different. Having the
wrong clearance — being too loose or
too tight — will force you to remove
the transmission again. And most of the
clutch packs don’t have a conventional
selective plate.
So here’s the fix: set the high and
low-reverse clutch clearance to 0.050”
and the direct clutch to 0.060”, or as
close as humanly possible
apply timing of the high and lowreverse
clutch, not the front band.
Here’s why: The front band is holding
in first and second, but is ineffective. In
third gear, it’s part of the applied state.
The servo never loses pressure, so if
the band were slipping it would cause a
spin-up or neutral, not a flare.
The high and low-reverse clutch
applies and the forward brake releases
on the 2-3 shift. The timing between
these two shift components is critical.
The high and low-reverse clutch drum
is splined to the direct clutch and is
connected to the rear planetary. The forward
brake is located in the back of the
transmission and is splined to the case
The problem is the clearance specifications,
and there are plenty of them
out there: We found at least three and
they were all different. Having the
wrong clearance — being too loose or
too tight — will force you to remove
the transmission again. And most of the
clutch packs don’t have a conventional
selective plate.
So here’s the fix: set the high and
low-reverse clutch clearance to 0.050”
and the direct clutch to 0.060”, or as
close as humanly possible
#39
#40
#41
#43
I've had this problem from day 1, 19K miles. My car has 106K now and still shifts great. I use MM more than 50% of the time. As already stated, I'd rather it shift hard and fast.
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