I installed a hitch from eTrailer.com on my 2007 G35x on Friday so that I can easily use a bike rack on the vehicle. Very pleased with the results, and I highly recommend it to anyone wanting an easy way to haul bikes. Here are detailed installation instructions:

These instructions, with links to higher resolution pictures can be seen on my web page here:
http://mikepro.googlepages.com/2007g...erhitchinstall

Hitch link:
http://www.etrailer.com/hitch-2007_Infiniti_G35.htm

PDF Install instructions from etrailer

And installed picture:




Tools needed:
• Socket wrenches (3/8” and ¼” recommended), with metric sockets. (Don’t recall exact sizes, but I think I used M8, M12, and then one very large socket like an M18 for the tie down bolt. You could also use a crescent wrench for that one).
• Two medium flat bladed screw drivers.
• Jig saw with plastic cutting blade or dremel tool
• Painters tape and a marker
• Ruler
• Black spray paint
• (Optional) Extra fascia body clips, Nissan part number is 01533-09241


Installation Instructions:

1. Open the hitch parts. Find the square hole spacer plate and the hex flange nut, (identified as parts 2 and 3 in the etrailer install instructions.) Spray paint these black. If left as shiny metal, they look awful when installed. The look much better painted black. Set these aside to dry as you complete the remaining steps.

Some pics of it painted and installed:




2. Remove the license plate.

3. Mark the centerline of the bumper. When the license plate is removed, you will see an indentation and a notch in the middle of the bumper. I took some blue painters tape and centered the edge on the notch and ran a tape line down and underneath the bumper all the way to the back edge.

4. Lay down on the ground, and stick your head underneath the bumper. Measure 7/8 of an inch from each side of this centerline and make a mark. (Note: it’s better to cut wide of this mark, than too short, as trimming the plastic can be difficult once the hitch is installed. So, when you cut, cut a bit on the outside of this mark.) Now, use your ruler and a marker to extend this mark towards the rear of the car until you reach the edge where the bumper bends upwards.



5. Remove the two black fascia clips underneath the bumper. I did this by using two flat bladed screw drivers to pop the head out. The head will pop out will come out about a quarter of an inch. Once the head pops up, you will need to pull the entire plug out. I found that the best way was to push it our from the back. I used the backside of a quarter inch socket, reach up underneath the edge of the bumper, put the square end over the top of the plug and pushed it out. Sounds complicated, but it is really easy.

These clips are used all over the vehicle. You can reuse them, but if you want to pickup some extras just in case, the Nissan part number is 01533-09241 for a bag of 5. The parts dept. at my dealership just gave me two for free when I got my oil changed.

6. Remove the black underbody panel from the vehicle. I believe there are four small screws, and two nuts holding it in place. All use the same socket. Once all of the fasteners are removed, pull the cover out and set it aside.

7. Cut out the U shaped area from the bumper using your tool of choice. I found a jig saw at low speed works best. Wear safety or some sort of glasses, because you will be laying on your back, and plastic bits will get in your face and eyes!!

8. Remove the aluminum bumper fascia spacer by removing the four M8 bolts. This was the hardest part of the entire install, (other than gathering the courage to cut your bumper), because the bottom bolts are hard to get to. Here is a tip: start with the bottom bolts. Use a small 1/4” socket wrench to loosen the bolts. Access these bolts by pulling the bumper away from where the license plate is and sticking the wrench in. Loose as much as you can, but very quickly it will be too loose so the ratcheting action of your wrench won’t work. Once this happens, remove the wrench and take the socket off. Stick the socket back on the bolt head. You should now be able to turn the socket by placing and index finger on either side of it and spinning it. Once the bottom bolts are removed, remove the top ones and pull the spacer out through the license plate hole. Recall how much effort it takes to loosen these bolts, (not much), because you will want to install them with the same torque.

9. Put a washer supplied in the etrailer parts on each of these bolts so they are ready to go once you lift the hitch into place. (Not really sure why another washer is required, but I just followed the install instructions).

10. Now it is time to mount the hitch. You will slide the hitch into place by going inserting the hitch from underneath the bumper. Line up the holes, and make sure that the hitch flange is on top of the tow loop.

11. Hold the hitch in place, and re-insert the aluminum bumper fascia spacer. Line up the holes, and get the top bolts started to hold the hitch into place.

12. Tighten all four M8 bolts to 17 ft-lbs (not very tight, surprisingly enough. Recall how they felt when you removed them, and tighten them accordingly. Start the bottom bolts in a similar way to how you removed them.

13. Attach the hitch to the tow loop using the etrailer supplied carriage bolt, square hole spacer and flange nut. Tighten to recommended torque, 75 ft-lbs (pretty tight). If necessary, touch these up with black spray paint.

14. Raise the black underbody panel and mark the area you will need to cut out. Cut this area out, and test fit it, making sure everything fits OK. Trim any plastic on the bumper and body cover until you are satisfied with the fit

15. Re-install the black underbody cover. Start at the bumper by inserting the underbody cover tabs up into the bumper and installing the fascia clips. Raise the cover into place and secure it with the original fasteners.


That’s it! Clean up, mount your bike rack, and go for a ride!

 

More pictures of it installed with the bike rack. By the way. the bike rack is a Roland three bike carrier that I also got from etrailer. Very nice.

I love my Specialized Roubaix!!!


Rack with arms down


Rack from side


Rack from side with bike

 

Great info and glad you can move that bike now without too much trouble.
I am too chicken to add a hitch to my G ( or roof rack to my prior G) so I took the not so cheap way out and bought a late 90's Tahoe and use it for a daily beater and bike hauler. Also helps during those winter months
Got a couple of buddies who love their Specialized bikes too. I just got a Giant TCR C1 at the end of last season and could not be happier. Just as long as you put on those miles.

 

What are the consequences of attaching the hitch to the top loop? What if you need a tow? -Do you then need to take the hitch off?

 

Thanks a lot for the info and the pictures Mikepro. This looks pretty much as I was expecting regarding the cutting. I'll have to order one of these now.

 

No problem. Don't let the long post fool you, it is really rather easy to install. It is soo worth it to me for the convenience of being able to get the rack on and my bike safely loaded in about a minute.

Congrats on your Giant, that is a nice bike too. I really love the performance, feel, and geometry of my Roubaix. I've had it for about two years now, and am getting close to 4000 miles on it. I did a double century on it last year, and it was great. I only had problems with my feet getting numb, everything else was fine. Unfortunately I'm seriously behind on my riding this season, and still carrying about 10+ pounds from winter :-( I need to start hammering it!!! I wish the Michigan riding season was longer...

I don't think there are any consequences of using the tow loop. I think that was used primarily as a tie down during shipping. There are two loops on either side of the hitch receiver that could be used for the same purpose.

 

I hear you there I normally gain ten lbs in the winter then down 15-20 during the middle of summer.
Doing my first century this season this coming weekend. At about 75-80 miles in is when I get the numbness in my hands but I just can't do the aero bars.
Good luck working off the those remaining lbs and glad to hear of another cyclist on the forum.

 

Thanks Mike. I ordered one a few weeks ago too, but being in Canada my shipment is still likely with customs getting the ol' "rubber glove" treatment.

Given the geometry of my frame & full suspension I have to use a bike rack type where the bike tires sit on the rack instead of being held by the frame. My only concern is that the rack might be too low/long and get hung up coming off the curb/driveway.

I would have posted on the original thread saying I would be the guinea pig, but forum registration was closed for a long time for some reason.

 

By some new gloves and move your hands around (drops, hoods, tops, etc.). I don't usually get this on the road, but find it happens on long MTB races (12+ hours). New gloves worked great.

Also, take your hands off the bars (one at a time or both, your call ) and shake / move them around to get blood flowing again.

Litespeed rules, BTW

 

Mike,

Thanks for your informative post (great pics too!). I ordered my hitch the day you posted. Thought about paintinng the whole setup Ivory Pearl, but I think the black will be more incosnpicuous.

I am nervous b/c I am installing this on a G35S, not an X. We'll see how it turns out, I'll post pics when I'm done. I'll probably go with a saris rack.

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2003 FX35 Ivory Pearl on Willow Cloth, no roof
2007 G35S 6MT Ivory Pearl on Graphite, no roof
1989 BMW 325iX Red on Black

2005 Felt F80 aluminum on carbon fork, tiagra/105/ultegra 18spd
2005 Fuji Cross Comp A6 aluminum cyclocross, tiagra/105 18spd
2006 Fuji Team full carbon, full Ultegra including crank 20spd
Late 80's vintage Olmo fixed gear, Velocity deep V's, campy crank

 

Litespeed bikes are sweet
Thanks for the advice..I think I have tried them all at one point or another. I also try to keep my weight back more also ...instead of putting so much on my hands.
I agree that new gloves make the biggest difference. I get at least two or three pairs now a year. As a bigger guy (6'4" 215) I tend to flatten those gloves rather quickly.
BTW, 12+hours MTB races? Thats crazy talk!

 

Thanks for the write up. I just ordered mine and can't wait to start hitting the trails!

 

No problem. I don't think there is any difference between G35X, S or Journey in the rear bumper setup, so it should install fine on any model.

 

Where did you purchase the Rola bike rack?

 

I also got it from Etrailer. They seemed to have a really good price on it. I like how it has two straps that go around the top tube, and on around the seat tube to stabilize the bike.