Eibach Sways or Pro Kit Springs or Kit?
#1
Eibach Sways or Pro Kit Springs or Kit?
So in addition to trying to find some berks HFCs, I'm also looking to upgrade my suspension to eliminate, as much as possible, body roll. I've read earlier about hotchkis or eibach sway. Consensus was whatever costs less, can't go wrong either way. So my question is, should I just buy the front and rear sways or the kit with the sways and the pro kit springs? I've heard the springs may lower my car more than the advertised 1" drop. I don't really want it to drop too much. Also, I was looking for some new shocks. What's the intel on KYB gas shocks n struts for our cars? Do it? Don't do it? I'm limited on funds, that's why not going all out for coil
#3
IIRC, the advertised drop on the Pro-kit is 1.4/1.3. I was stupid and in a rush to do mine so I never took before and after measurements but I would say its about right. Camber kits front and rear are definitely required, with stock adjustments my camber is still too negative at their max adjustment(-1.6 to -1.8 all around). I am thinking about sway bars next as the body roll is still noticeable, I attribute a lot of the poor handling to the tires too though.
Then again I previously drove an Evo X and Evo 8 so the car doesnt feel as tight anyway.
Then again I previously drove an Evo X and Evo 8 so the car doesnt feel as tight anyway.
#4
Pro-kit - G35 Coupe: Front -1.1in/Rear -1.0in, G35 Sedan: Front -1.4in/Rear -1.3in
Sportlines - G35 Coupe: Front -1.6in/Rear -1.4in, Not compatible with the G35 Sedan. Off the website...
I opted for the prokits and couldn't be happier, although I think it may have lowered it a little more than the advertised drop. Either way, it looks, handles and rides great. Tire wear is livable for me.
I also have Eibach sways with whiteline end-links, Attached are pics for reference.
Sportlines - G35 Coupe: Front -1.6in/Rear -1.4in, Not compatible with the G35 Sedan. Off the website...
I opted for the prokits and couldn't be happier, although I think it may have lowered it a little more than the advertised drop. Either way, it looks, handles and rides great. Tire wear is livable for me.
I also have Eibach sways with whiteline end-links, Attached are pics for reference.
#5
Yeah I picked up a set of rear SPC bolts for cheap so I will be installing those to help out, but I am not so sure whether or not I will do the front arms, it all depends on how the tire wear goes. The dealer I bought my car from had put some crappy *** PHI tires on so I'm not too concerned with wearing them perfect since I am sure a different set will improving handling too.
#6
I'd skip Eibach's sway bars and go for a hollow, larger diameter bar rather than something smaller and more solid like the Eibachs. While they should work the same on paper, the thicker sway bars will still work better. Something adjustable would be a better choice anyways.
As for the struts and shocks, I would go for Tokico D-Specs over the KYBs.
As for the struts and shocks, I would go for Tokico D-Specs over the KYBs.
#7
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Yeah I picked up a set of rear SPC bolts for cheap so I will be installing those to help out, but I am not so sure whether or not I will do the front arms, it all depends on how the tire wear goes. The dealer I bought my car from had put some crappy *** PHI tires on so I'm not too concerned with wearing them perfect since I am sure a different set will improving handling too.
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#8
Keep in mind that you need to worry about toe much more than camber, and front toe is already adjustable without any kit. Unless you are dropped more than 2", you shouldn't have any problem with the front alignment at all, although I would highly suggest at least the SPC toe bolts an maybe the camber arms on the rears. I've driven around for several years dropped more than 3" without any front camber kit and everything was fine.
A little camber in the fronts is good for handling, so if you are dropped an inch or so, that little bit of camber is not a horrible thing to have. But I would get the kits to fix both toe and camber in the rears since you want those tires to be pretty flat on the ground to give you more traction to accelerate.
A little camber in the fronts is good for handling, so if you are dropped an inch or so, that little bit of camber is not a horrible thing to have. But I would get the kits to fix both toe and camber in the rears since you want those tires to be pretty flat on the ground to give you more traction to accelerate.
Last edited by dofu; 04-08-2013 at 10:30 PM.
#9
If I were you I'd save the money for something other than the front arms, your camber is out of spec but not enough to cause much concern. I have the F&R arms & toe kit but I'm at zero gap, I doubt you'll see abnormal wear on your tires at that camber setting, might just want to rotate (if you can) every other oil change or 7k miles whichever comes first. The front arms are about $350, not really worth it if you're that close to spec, if you were over -2 degrees then I would.
Keep in mind that you need to worry about toe much more than camber, and front toe is already adjustable without any kit. Unless you are dropped more than 2", you shouldn't have any problem with the front alignment at all, although I would highly suggest at least the SPC toe bolts an maybe the camber arms on the rears. I've driven around for several years dropped more than 3" without any front camber kit and everything was fine.
A little camber in the fronts is good for handling, so if you are dropped an inch or so, that little bit of camber is not a horrible thing to have. But I would get the kits to fix both toe and camber in the rears since you want those tires to be pretty flat on the ground to give you more traction to accelerate.
A little camber in the fronts is good for handling, so if you are dropped an inch or so, that little bit of camber is not a horrible thing to have. But I would get the kits to fix both toe and camber in the rears since you want those tires to be pretty flat on the ground to give you more traction to accelerate.
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