I have an 08 G35X. It has just over a hundred k on it. I've owned it for eight months.

a month ago I had an issue with the starter, and I replaced it and everything seemed to be fine. Then yesterday, the alternator failed.

the alternator was replaced today, and during the repair, the battery was charged and the car was started and moved so that it could be repaired in a different spot, then after the repair was completed, it was started again and I got in it and drove it about 30 miles away to my office.

when I left the office, I went outside and the car would not start. The starter tried to turn over a couple of times, and then nothing, just a click. I tried to jump it, and once while jumping I heard the starter turn over again, but for the most part it just clicked, similar to how it did when the starter fail before. So my first assumption was that the battery was bad., or that the alternator that was just replaced today, was not charging the battery properly.

I took the battery to be tested in two different places, and the battery tested fine, and showed to be fully charged.

I I am headed back to the car now to reinstall the battery to see if anything different happens, but after 2 days of being stranded by this car twice, I'm not optimistic.

I guess it's a possibility that the starter that I got is a POS and I need yet another one after only a month, but that's a little hard to believe, even is pessimistic as I feel about this car right now.

I'm at my wit's end at what to even check. Some people have suggested the body control module, but I don't know what those symptoms are, but I know I have replaced relays in a previous affinity that I had that were in the ipdm... Not sure if either of these things are the culprit, but I have noticed other weird electrical problems like not being able to turn the hazard lights off, and not being able to ship the car out of park without sticking a screwdriver in the shift lock ( happened yesterday when the alternator died).


sorry for the rambling, but I'm at my wit's end, and just looking for any suggestions that anyone may have four things to check. As I said I'm headed back to and reinstall the battery now to see if it starts, but outside of that I don't have any clue what it could be

 

 

It is entirely possible your original starter was not defective? If your battery is testing good and you replaced your original starter without having it bench tested and you are still having the same problem then your troubleshooting procedures are the problem.
You or whoever you are using is obviously not looking at the starter electric schematic diagram in the FSM. There is a starter relay as part of the IPDM as well as the BCM in the starter circuit.
Most likely a trip to your local Infiniti dealer would have had your vehicle properly repaired and provided you a new loaner vehicle while they did so.

You say now your alternator failed! How did you test that?

Keep throwing parts at your vehicle and perhaps you will eventually get to the right one?

Telcoman

 

This happened right after the car came from the shop from having the alternator repaired. Like right after. I removed the battery and took it to two different places and had it tested and it was completely charged. The alternator is brand new and seems to be working

 

the starter was replaced about a month ago, and until yesterday had worked completely fine. The alternator failure, I think was pretty well diagnosed. I could hear the Telltale whining sound before it failed, and my battery and brake light were intermittently on before it ultimately failed while driving and shut off on Wednesday.

The battery was very weak when I dropped it off to be repaired, they charged the battery, and then the alternator was tested prior to the repair on the vehicle while running and it was not charging the battery , and then once removed from the vehicle, the alternator pulley was seized up and wouldn't even turn.

during the alternator repair, there were no issues with the starter... They started it up to test the alternator, then they shut it off and start it up again to move the car to a different location in the shop to perform the repair, then I started it up when I left the shop, and I drove it 30 miles away, with no apparent issues until after I got to work, went to an hour long meeting, and came back out and it would not restart... at first I can hear the starter motor attempting to turn over , but not strong enough to start the car , but shortly after all I got was The Click ... Boosting it didn't work, and I then removed the battery, and took it to be tested at two different places, both showed it to be fully charged and verified the 610CCA required were being produced... then returned it to the car.

I guess it's possible that I am dealing with the same problem, but it just doesn't seem that way because after the starter repair, the car worked perfectly for over a month until the alternator problems on Wednesday, and as I think about it now, the whining from the alternator had been occurring for a few days, and I just didn't recognize what it was

 

^^^
Has your vehicle ever been in a flood?

All of those electrical problems point in that direction. Also wiring harness issues?

Telcoman

 

The battery needs to get load bank tested, it is usually a machine attached to a cart they wheel out to your vehicle. Total voltage doesn't mean much. You might also just have a corroded lug possibly a section of damaged wire.

 

in addition to the volt meter that the shop that replaced the alternator used, the battery was load tested and verified the 610 CCA current draw with a handheld machine at both autozone and oreilly yesterday after I removed it from the car

 

not that I know of... I purchased the car back in December of last year, and I live in the Houston area which recently had some flooding, but the previous owner was from New York I believe, and the car does have significant rust from what looks to be salt damage...

I did notice that when the alternator crapped out, that at times I was unable to turn off the hazard lights, and the shift lock mechanism did not allow the car to be removed from Park without the manual override with a screwdriver.... both of these things went away though once the alternator was replaced in the battery was recharged, so I assumed that they were normal but they may not be I guess

 

Likely a corrosion problem on am electrical connection. Espectially since you said there's a lot of chassis corrosion.

 

something else that I've noticed that may be worth mentioning... The entire time I've owned the car, I've noticed that my turn signal indication sound, as well as the door ajar sound are often muffled as if whatever device Powers them is failing... It's never had that effect on the driving, I guess that I know of, but those sounds of always kind of been intermittent